Hi All, The children are apparently jealous of something or just don't want to go out. I drove the 94 to work Wednesday and nearly made it. There is a drawbridge within sight of and uphill from my parking lot. I believe the car died at the crest or just past it on the bridge. I had ample momentum to coast into a space cranking the engine most of the way. (It couldn't really have been better timed other than by not happening at all) Before it died it was running fine, or at least well enough to not give any warning. I had stopped at several intersections and noticed no faltering en route. Had it towed home. Over the past few days I have swapped the fuel pump relay, I have jumpered the relay terminals to hotwire the pump (successfully), I have checked spark twice (Successfully), changed the coil And its condenser, I have disconnected the fuel line and allowed fuel to pump into a container to a total of about 2 cups fuel in about 15 seconds cranking. I have not checked the Actual fuel pressure since I "believe" the flow is adequate. I observe the tach moving to about 100-200 rpm and jumping as the motor tries to catch suggesting a good crank sensor. I have tried resetting the inertia switch. I have no codes via the VCM.
Currently I am suspecting the vacuum controlled valve in the fuel line at the front of the motor. Could it be stuck open causing fuel pressure to be too low to actuate the injectors? I have a spare which I can apply vacuum to but still cannot "blow" through the fuel line side which suggests to me that it needs vacuum AND fuel pressure to work right... (or my spare is bad)
Could it be another case of faulty solder joints!?!?! If so, where?
Is there another way to test the Crank sensor, or is the tach movement enough?
As always, any suggestions or potshots are welcome!

 

Start simple and cheap - swap rotor and cap and see what happens.

If no go, try the spare fuel pressure regulator anyway (AFAIK you can't blow through these things)

good luck Jerry!

Larry

 

Thanks- I did peek into the cap and touched the rotor, but that's on my list. And good to know on the valve.

 

The fuel filter is a cheap replacement too Jerr, probably not the issue but may as well change it if you haven't already done so ...I hesitate to say "it's the fuel pump" because that's a big job, but having had that go on my rig with similar symptoms, well ....

I'm not so sure that 2 cupfuls in 15 seconds is enough, I think Bryan on Jaglovers had some figures for "normal" volume of gas delivery?

If it is the pump, bear in mind that all the brands are re-branded Walbro pumps, so buy the cheapest, they are all the same.

Check that rotor first!!!

Larry

 

I just checked Bryan's figures, so you ARE in the ballpark, whew!

Larry

 

Yes, I thought figured it at about right, unless I was having a mental malfunction again. Haven't been into that car today as I found a 93 xj6 at my local junkyard and made second trip today to pillage it clean. Got Loads of parts for both cars- including a crank sensor......

 

Had a slight "development" today. I scraped the crap off the dist cap terminals. Tried starting it just for giggles. It helped! It didn't start but it acted like it might... SO! I guess I'm getting new cap and rotor. I think I will get a new coil and condenser too while I'm in there. They both look like they've been soaking in saltwater. Yuk! I put new plugs and wires in with a new valve cover gasket 2 years ago so I think they're all right since I have only driven the car 3000 miles total.

 

Ok all. Here's our lesson in regular maintenance. When I got this car, the Moneyfunnel, it ran "good." I changer the plugs and wires for bad valve cover rings at the plug holes. Didn't do the cap and rotor. It ran good. Today I got tired of waiting on the cap and rotor that I have on order . I swapped them out of the white car and this one started right up. Is running at this moment as well as it has. So after all my testing and very nearly ordering a fuel pump, it turns out it was the cap and rotor. Someone help me scrape my jaw up off the floor. Thanks for your input, I think you suggested swapping but I didn't want to incapacitate the other car for it..... Call me lazy.

 

Good news! I thought you'd have swapped the cap and rotor out for testing - but I guess not!!

Better late than never though, eh?

cheers

Larry

 

Paybacks for Moneyfunnel though, white car gets the New parts. Ha!

 

Im going to resurrect this thread since I don't feel like Hijacking Sanchez' any more. In another thread I mentioned that I had a head gasket blown. I have since done the job (first time I removed any head With Intention of Replacing it.) . As a result I had a cam gear fail. I believe it was previously cracked due to the color of the metal in the crack but that my disruption of its existence caused it to fail. In any case, I did due diligence and found a New replacement gear available at about $45 plus shipping and however many days waiting. SO! I went to my Favorite Local Junkyard again- "Pauls" in Westville Indiana- where I was 75% certain they had the Proper part For ME. I was right. These guys Never fail to give me the Best Deal I could possibly hope for. I got not one, but both cam gears, their hubs and bolts, and as a humorous aside 15 lugnuts for the 95-6 wheel of which I use 2 sets, all for a paltry $5! Not $15, Not $50, but $5! I giggled openly all afternoon, and several times today too. shop local? go Pauls? Something victorious!