94 xj12 valve cover gasket
#1
09-24-2011, 05:17 PM
#2
09-25-2011, 04:11 AM
The OE Jaguar gaskets are a "Gortex" sandwich material, and have been supplied in that form for many years. The early style paper/cardboard style have been out of issue for some time so you getting those is a surprise.
As yours is a 6ltr it "may" be different, but highly unlikely.
I dont use any of them on mine, just "SUPER CLEAN" and Hi-Temp RTV, NO leaks, how sweet is that, mmm.
As yours is a 6ltr it "may" be different, but highly unlikely.
I dont use any of them on mine, just "SUPER CLEAN" and Hi-Temp RTV, NO leaks, how sweet is that, mmm.
#3
09-25-2011, 01:03 PM
yeah its a 6.o L and some one used rtv on it witch lead to a gasket "rtv" fail right at the back closest to the fire wall and right below that the catalytic converter that started on fire at one point so thats why is was looking for stock or metal reinforced gaskets but i cant find any
Last edited by tipn22; 09-25-2011 at 01:05 PM.
#6
09-26-2011, 03:41 AM
As I have NO IDEA where "silverton" is in this massive world we habitate, I am of NO USE as to who to try for the Gortex gaskets. I am guessing the USA, as your stump place ?????. Search out some of the suppliers that support this site would be fruitful I reckon.
Might be worth updating your profile with a "country", to help us all.
The part # I have for 5.3ltr, and 6ltr is EBC9627, being the same for both engines. However i have NO idea if they are the Gotex style or the "old" cardboard style.
The inlet gaskets are as is, and no "newer" versions are available, and they should be retorqued after a few hours of running, not that difficult really.
The RTV leak is more than likely due to sloppy workmanship, and/or was not cleaned correctly prior to re-installation of the covers, seen lots of that over the years, but if cleaned correctly RTV does not leak. the "D" seals at the rear of each cylinder head are a bigger culprit for leaks than the gaskets in what I have experienced.
Try a dealer for your gaskets, and ask them the questions.
Might be worth updating your profile with a "country", to help us all.
The part # I have for 5.3ltr, and 6ltr is EBC9627, being the same for both engines. However i have NO idea if they are the Gotex style or the "old" cardboard style.
The inlet gaskets are as is, and no "newer" versions are available, and they should be retorqued after a few hours of running, not that difficult really.
The RTV leak is more than likely due to sloppy workmanship, and/or was not cleaned correctly prior to re-installation of the covers, seen lots of that over the years, but if cleaned correctly RTV does not leak. the "D" seals at the rear of each cylinder head are a bigger culprit for leaks than the gaskets in what I have experienced.
Try a dealer for your gaskets, and ask them the questions.
#7
10-01-2011, 01:51 PM
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#8
10-02-2011, 04:08 AM
OK.
Clean ALL the surfaces, think they are clean, DO IT AGAIN. Once you have REALLY got it clean of all old gasket material/RTV/whatever, spray the surfaces with solvent (I use Carby Cleaner) and let it evapoate dry, DO IT AGAIN. DO NOT touch these surfaces, as a simple finger print "oily film" can cause a non-stick situation of the RTV.
Collect ALL the retaining screws, and wire brush them clean, concentrating on the threads.
Get everything ready, and laid out so access is simple and unfussed.
Apply a "good" bead of RTV to the "D" seals, on the curved part, and sit them in the head, run a bead of about 3mm wide along the camcover face, giving a loop around the holes. Apply a dob at each end of the "D" where it sits at the head face cutout.
Slide the camcover into place direct down to the face, DO NOT SLIDE IT SIDEWAYS. It must be a direct slide down fit. I use a few headless studs to slide it down square. Once down, fit some of the correct screws, and tighten a TAD over finger tight, remove the headless studs (if used) and fit the balance of the screws. After about 60minutes go and tighten the cover a tad firmer again (about 1/4 turn per screw), dont go silly, as you will squash the RTV out of the joint, and a leak will annoy you again. What you want is the RTV to "form its own gasket/seal", and after a 12/24 hour period tighten the cover firmer again, about 1/2 a turn on each screw is what I do, job is done.
My suggestion is to wipe OFF the excess BEFORE it sets, so basically straight after the finger tight step. If you get more later (I doubt it), slice it off with a sharp blade, as pulling it may pull a gap in the seal, not good.
Do one cover at a time, as the RTV will skin off if you try and do both together. Common sense to me.
I use Loctite Hi-Temp RTV Red.
It sounds complicted and messy, it really is not. The first one will scare the crap out of you, normal V12 stuff, but it is really NOT rocket science.
When I rebuilt my 5.3 (2001), most of the gaskets are RTV seals. No oil anywhere, except what is INSIDE the engine, where it belongs haha.
I use this same procedure on the trans pan, so NO LEAKS, cool for a TH400.
If you require a better, more detailed write up, send me your PM address and I will do so for you, or anyone else for that matter.
Clean ALL the surfaces, think they are clean, DO IT AGAIN. Once you have REALLY got it clean of all old gasket material/RTV/whatever, spray the surfaces with solvent (I use Carby Cleaner) and let it evapoate dry, DO IT AGAIN. DO NOT touch these surfaces, as a simple finger print "oily film" can cause a non-stick situation of the RTV.
Collect ALL the retaining screws, and wire brush them clean, concentrating on the threads.
Get everything ready, and laid out so access is simple and unfussed.
Apply a "good" bead of RTV to the "D" seals, on the curved part, and sit them in the head, run a bead of about 3mm wide along the camcover face, giving a loop around the holes. Apply a dob at each end of the "D" where it sits at the head face cutout.
Slide the camcover into place direct down to the face, DO NOT SLIDE IT SIDEWAYS. It must be a direct slide down fit. I use a few headless studs to slide it down square. Once down, fit some of the correct screws, and tighten a TAD over finger tight, remove the headless studs (if used) and fit the balance of the screws. After about 60minutes go and tighten the cover a tad firmer again (about 1/4 turn per screw), dont go silly, as you will squash the RTV out of the joint, and a leak will annoy you again. What you want is the RTV to "form its own gasket/seal", and after a 12/24 hour period tighten the cover firmer again, about 1/2 a turn on each screw is what I do, job is done.
My suggestion is to wipe OFF the excess BEFORE it sets, so basically straight after the finger tight step. If you get more later (I doubt it), slice it off with a sharp blade, as pulling it may pull a gap in the seal, not good.
Do one cover at a time, as the RTV will skin off if you try and do both together. Common sense to me.
I use Loctite Hi-Temp RTV Red.
It sounds complicted and messy, it really is not. The first one will scare the crap out of you, normal V12 stuff, but it is really NOT rocket science.
When I rebuilt my 5.3 (2001), most of the gaskets are RTV seals. No oil anywhere, except what is INSIDE the engine, where it belongs haha.
I use this same procedure on the trans pan, so NO LEAKS, cool for a TH400.
If you require a better, more detailed write up, send me your PM address and I will do so for you, or anyone else for that matter.
Last edited by Grant Francis; 10-02-2011 at 04:14 AM.
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