Hi, I'm the new owner of a clean 1988 XJ6 (US, 127k miles, garaged, purchased from original owner with a good maintenance ethic) with a question about the wheel bearings. With the car lifted and grabbing the wheel top and bottom I can feel and hear a small bit of play when I pull back and forth, but it's not enough that I can visibly see the wheel move. The wheels spin freely outside of the resistance of the brake pads. I'm just about all set to replace the steering gear and I was wondering whether I should add repacking or replacing the wheel bearings while I"m at it. As it's a new acquisition should I plan to repack the bearings as standard maintenance, or does it sound like they're in good shape as is?
Mostly I'm just curious how much play is normal in these cars. The suspension in this car is thrilling and I'd like to bring the steering response up to the same standard.

 

Apologies, read the Hayne's manual and answered my own question.

 

Greetings Albert and welcome to JaguarForums.

Glad you are enjoying the XJ40 and your Haynes has already helped. I suggest you visit the New Member Area as you enter the forums and post a brief introduction. There, beyond the red carpet and a whole gathering of friendly members, you will learn how to best use the forums . . . and guide you to the many resources and technical gurus available here.

Cheers,

Ken

 

You might like to check the steering rack mounting bushes. They become 'sloppy' over time and lead to play that causes the car to tramline and/or make the steering less precise. Aftermarket spacers will help to tighten up the rack mounts although they are rather expensive. If you search for Don's post on the issue (https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/x...es-diy-134396/) you can find the measurements and get a 3D printer to make you set (3dhubs.com). Note though... It's worth checking the internal diameter of the spacers against your rack. I used Don's measurements for my '88 but found the internal diameter to be a little oversized. If you are replacing your steering rack, you can fit them before installation to make the process easier.

 

Thanks for the tip on the rack bushes, that looks like a great upgrade, and as it happens I do have a 3D printer on-hand. It seems to me, since it's a new (remanufactured) rack and I've never driven this car with proper steering, that I'd be best off fitting the new rack as is and then fitting the bushings once I've confirmed that the new rack is performing well and I know how the steering ought to feel. Thanks again for directing me to this project!
-A

 

Hi Albert,

Welcome to the Jaguar Forums, and congratulations on finding such a well-preserved XJ40!

Repacking and adjusting the front wheel bearings on an XJ40 it is definitely a routine maintenance item. The bearings are not too expensive, and replacing them is not much more work than repacking them, so you might consider installing new ones while you're at it.

Regarding the bearing adjustment, I find the Haynes method leaves too much play and the Jag-Lovers eBook leaves too little, so I came up with a hybrid adjustment method that is easy and has worked well for me. The Jag-Lovers forum is undergoing some updates and the large photos are down, but you can see my thumbnails and descriptions at these links:

Front Wheel Bearings - Part 1 of 4
Front Wheel Bearings - Part 2 of 4
Front Wheel Bearings - Part 3 of 4
Front Wheel Bearings - Part 4 of 4

Regarding the steering, an XJ40 is never going to have the precision and feel of a BMW because it was designed to isolate the driver from harshness to a greater degree. But there should be no play, and there are several factors you can optimize:

1. Your tire selection will make a significant difference in the steering. Jaguar specified tires with a V-speed rating, but since those have become scarce in the high-profile sizes, many owners have installed less-expensive and more readily-available H-rated tires, which do not have the sidewall stiffness of V-rated tires and roll more when cornering. A good V- or higher-rated tire will help. Read reviews at tirerack.com to find tires known for good steering precision.

2. Check your inner and outer tie rod ends for any play and replace as necessary.

3. Check your ball joints for any signs of play or torn boots and replace as necessary (see my photos).

4. Check the lower steering column swing-link (U-joint) for any play: there should be none.

5. The front shock top bushes perish and allow excess body movement, contributing to vague steering.

6. The anti-roll bar bushes and links don't last forever either, though I'm not sure their impact on steering is as great as some of the other items in this list.

7. The rear subframe bushes perish and allow the subframe to move too much in relation to the body, which has a surprisingly negative effect on steering precision.

8. The rear wheel bearings must also be in good condition with no play.

9. If you have on-center play in the steering, you may be able to remove some or all of it by adjusting the steering rack pinion gear preload. I've had to do this even on newly rebuilt racks. On the underside of the rack below the point where the steering column enters there is a hex-head adjuster within a graduated ring. I think it takes a 17mm socket. Make alignment marks on the hex and the ring so you can return the adjuster to its current position if necessary. Then turn the hex clockwise one graduation at a time, take a test drive, and repeat until you feel the steering tighten up. If you go too far, the rack will lose its ability to self-center as you are coming out of a turn. Just back off the adjuster a bit counter-clockwise and try again until you've gone just far enough.

Cheers,

Don

 

Thanks very much, Don. I've finished the rack and pinion replacement and the car is driving quite well (aside from a rough idle and a bum headlight that are separate issues). I deifintely see that the front shock top bushes need replacing but everything else checks out as of right now. Next step is to get the rear end on jack stands and do an inspection of the items you listed. Again, thanks tremendously for your input, this kind of shared knowledge is what makes owning and working on a car like this possible for a curious neophyte like myself!
Cheers,
-A