Hello all, I have a 1993 Jaguar XJ40, 4.0 Sovereign Vin SAJJHALDAT6599XX RHD The body stamp reads 1992 but compliance plated 1993/03 but matches 1992 documentation so far.

From what I see the ABS braking system has a JLM1907 accumulator. I am calling on the wealth of experience from the forum to try and clear up or bring together the information on the braking accumulators and what ones are compatible. I have been unable to find definitive information and specs on the JLM1907 or OEM replacements.

I have listed below the accumulators which seem to be close to what is required. Some are outrageously priced so I will be avoiding those.

from what I can see the Delco is identical but pricing is insane. The Swag and Wabco are available and considerably more affordable downunder at around AU$200. Does anyone know of others to add to the list, installed and tested or maybe modified. Anyone who can assist with info and compatibility of these mentioned or others that do, please add to this topic.

Jaguar JLM1907, Saab 4002267, Delco 25528382, range Rover P38 wabco STC2784, GM 2567065, Repco - SWAG 20901817, ATE accumulator P/N: 34331162054 ATE OEM

That is the entire listing I have found so far but I will be continuing to build the library of details and try to find current suppliers and links to the best deals available once I can build the lists up. Some of the price gouging I see online for these parts is quite shameful. If we can use the forum to keep these amazing vehicles running more affordably more will remain operational along with OEM support. These forums are the key..

Stay COVID19 safe everyone.

Cheers from Rodoz

 

Hi Rodoz,

See this recent thread for information that may be helpful to your search:

https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/x...lm1907-223027/

Cheers,

Don

 

Hi Don, many thanks that is an excellent thread. Much appreciated.

regards Rod

 

Hi, I was one of the original posters in April. I have been using the WABCO unit since.
Performance is good with no problems or deficiencies. IMO, the larger size and additional capacity create a need for
more care in bleeding the brake system, and based on my experience I recommend bleeding the MC as well.
Occasionally the brake light will briefly flash and go out. I've had similar happen in the past with the original design accumulator and a MC bleed corrected the issue.
To date I just haven't had time to confirm, as I've recently sold my home bought a retirement villa. In any case I will bleed my brakes again and report back.
To finalize: The WABCO accumulator is significantly less expensive than the original design and based on my 5 months experience I call it
a cost effective and operationally efficient alternative!

Roger

 

Hi Roger, Many thanks for your input, I will most likely proceed down this path also. You are in the States so yours would be LHD. As I am downunder in Australia it is RHD and the layout is slightly different. I will confirm the STC2784 will clear the hood frame before ordering. It is only a little taller but I had better be sure before I go making any statements here. If anyone has fitted the STC2784 to a RHD XJ40 with the Teeves braking please let us all know. Thanks again for participation, this forum is excellent guys.

Regards Rod

 

I put a Mercedes SBC accumulator in the Wabco system of my old 95 Range Rover LWB and it worked fine and also in a Teves equipped XJS. Even when ordering from the UK the Eurotrash and the OE Wabco are a lot more expensive than the Benz ball.

One of my other Rovers had a Delco Reatta? or Saab? accumulator on when I got it. The GMs used a Wabco system, I stole a pressure switch off an old 9000 when mine started acting up.

Ate's accumulators for the BMWs are a definitely a no-go, it has a different thread than the one in the Jags.

 

As we are discussing accumulators; I had a catastrophic ABS failure during a torrential downpour at about 6:00 PM today.
Something "Popped" and blew brake fluid all over the engine bay. The reservoir is 100% empty.
To be sure I haven't had an opportunity to check for a failure,
My question is; in common experience what has been the most common failure resulting in a complete
emptying of the brake fluid reservoir coating all the surrounding engine bay in brake fluid?

Thanks,
Roger.

 

The problem was a bad accumulator "O" ring.
I filled the reservoir with fluid pressurized the system and watched high pressure brake fluid shoot out from the accumulator "O" ring. New O ring was the repair, may bleed the brakes.

 

Hello All, Many thanks for all the interesting contributions to this thread. As I am downunder in Australia, the best most affordable option I felt was the Range Rover P38 accumulator, Wabco STC2784 @ 115 pounds delivered from Island4x4. This info might save others a great deal of searching. The Jaguar JLM1907,/Saab 4002267/Delco 25528382 was more than double that down here. Others have followed this path with great results so I will keep you all posted on how it goes following arrival and installation. It will be a few weeks yet as we are still in Covid19 lockdown and curfew down here in Melbourne. When done I will report back. If other members find different accumulators that work please add to the thread.

Stay covid safe, regards Rodoz

 

How did it go rodoz, mick oz here from melbourne.

 

Hello MicVic, I competed the installation of the Range Rover P38 accumulator, Wabco STC2784 two weeks ago. Mechanically it fitted neatly. Preparation was a large glass jar to catch the waste fluid via a clear tube. Firstly, I completely drained the reservoir and brake unit via the front driver side disc caliper. Unfortunately, the only way I could get the old accumulator bulb off was to remove the pump and accumulator section and clamp it in wood jaw vice. I needed to use a dozen rounds of thread loosener and air warming and cooling low at the bulb threaded base of the pressure bulb to finally get it to move. I never allowed the localized heated area to become too hot to touch as the pump and pressure switch were still attached. It is an alloy assy and hollow so take real care not to crack it. So just take your time on this phase. I gently heated the coupling with a heat gun and had mounted the assy so the coupling was higher than the alloy assy so any heat rose to the bulb not overheating the alloy assy. Once the new WABCO bulb was fitted and the assy was back in the XJ40, connected and ready to bleed the air out, I added just enough Aussie made , Dot4 Nulon brake fluid to prime the pump and master cylinder to begin the flush process via brake line bleeding. My pressure pump primed quite quickly but I read some don't willingly self prime and they had to literally put their mouth over the reservoir inlet and blow to to force fluid into the pump. Mine ran for a good minute to prime but be aware not to continuously run the pump for long periods. To do the bleeding I read you need the pump to be able to run and in my case I found this to be true. Each time you press the pedal and release the old fluid when opening the bleeding screw, the pump will run briefly to restore pressure. As the master cylinder returns the overflow back to the reservoir with each pedal pump, I wanted to keep flushing the old fluid out of the master cylinder and pressure pump unit. You need someone to pump the pedal for this while you bleed the lines and keep topping up the reservoir. If you use this technique, keep a close eye on level to prevent air sucking. Take your time, it is a quiet slow process. As the Nulon is clear and the old fluid was green it was quite obvious one the system was well bled and fully primed with new fluid. I used all of the 2L of Nulon to get the lines cleaned and primed with new fluid.
The test run was an obvious lift in braking performance and the pump rarely runs now.

Have fun working on yours. Regards Rod

 

I used the mercedes one...smaller......but went on (done by my local mechanic) and the breaks work properly now!!! Got it off ebay from greece.