Car Died
#1
Car Died
Hello All
I'm Ben & I recently bought a 94 XJ6 for my wife
"BEAUTIFUL CAR" We Love it
Only 1 Problem.... It died on the hiway on x Mas eve. I have no idea what happened
The dash reads a "transmission light" with an X through it ...???
It will not start .... Any assistance will help
Thanks
I'm Ben & I recently bought a 94 XJ6 for my wife
"BEAUTIFUL CAR" We Love it
Only 1 Problem.... It died on the hiway on x Mas eve. I have no idea what happened
The dash reads a "transmission light" with an X through it ...???
It will not start .... Any assistance will help
Thanks
#2
Hi Ben,
Welcome to the forum, I only wish under better circumstances! Does the car crank and not start, or won't it even crank?
I think the first thing I'd check is the "inertia switch" in the drivers (left) side footwell behind the fuse box. It it was tripped for any reason, it would disable your car from starting.
Inertia Switch and Relay Fusebox - Parts For XJ6 (2.9, 3.2, 3.6, 4.0) from (V)500001 to (V)667828 | Jaguar Classic Parts UK
Best,
Scott
Welcome to the forum, I only wish under better circumstances! Does the car crank and not start, or won't it even crank?
I think the first thing I'd check is the "inertia switch" in the drivers (left) side footwell behind the fuse box. It it was tripped for any reason, it would disable your car from starting.
Inertia Switch and Relay Fusebox - Parts For XJ6 (2.9, 3.2, 3.6, 4.0) from (V)500001 to (V)667828 | Jaguar Classic Parts UK
Best,
Scott
Last edited by MidwestJag; 12-28-2013 at 11:54 AM. Reason: directionally challenged...
#3
If the problem is that the engine will not fire over and run, try a quick check of the fuel pump.
If you have someone handy, have them crank the engine while you have the trunk open, and listen for the fuel pump whining away as it should be. Mine gives off a pretty distinctive high-pitched whine as the car is idling, it'll be the same with the engine cranking, too.
Nick
If you have someone handy, have them crank the engine while you have the trunk open, and listen for the fuel pump whining away as it should be. Mine gives off a pretty distinctive high-pitched whine as the car is idling, it'll be the same with the engine cranking, too.
Nick
#4
#5
#6
The fuel pump relay is located near the right rear tail lamp area on a 1994 XJ6.
You can 'jump' across the 30/87 terminals to power the pump from there.
Also be aware that the Blue Hella relays were never the most reliable.
Check the CKPS as they are known to fail.
bob gauff
You can 'jump' across the 30/87 terminals to power the pump from there.
Also be aware that the Blue Hella relays were never the most reliable.
Check the CKPS as they are known to fail.
bob gauff
#7
Ben,
Does throwing in the towel mean getting rid of it or taking it to a mechanic or what? Also, did you try the things suggested above? There's a lot that can be done with patience and research. If the car is in good shape otherwise, it is probably worth it. There's little "value" to the car money-wise, but huge value as a reliable running auto. XJ40s are absolute tanks if tended.
Courage!
Scott
Does throwing in the towel mean getting rid of it or taking it to a mechanic or what? Also, did you try the things suggested above? There's a lot that can be done with patience and research. If the car is in good shape otherwise, it is probably worth it. There's little "value" to the car money-wise, but huge value as a reliable running auto. XJ40s are absolute tanks if tended.
Courage!
Scott
Trending Topics
#9
First of all Welcome to the forum. When you get a chance go introduce yourself in the new member section, after a few more posts you can use the search function within the XJ40 section.
Remember it's a Jaguar, 20 years old. We have all been through what you're going through. You need patience if you are going to own this car. If you plan on working on it yourself, the forum is here for you. Nothing gets fixed in a heartbeat.
Buy a Haynes Repair Manual at any parts store. Read through it, you can at least find out where stuff is.
I know it's frustrating. We could throw a 100 suggestions at you, but until you know your Jag a bit it may become confusing.
Remember it's a Jaguar, 20 years old. We have all been through what you're going through. You need patience if you are going to own this car. If you plan on working on it yourself, the forum is here for you. Nothing gets fixed in a heartbeat.
Buy a Haynes Repair Manual at any parts store. Read through it, you can at least find out where stuff is.
I know it's frustrating. We could throw a 100 suggestions at you, but until you know your Jag a bit it may become confusing.
#10
Hi all, as far as the inertia switch position goes my '91 Daimler is right hand drive and the switch is behind the right hand kick panel. They either moved it from one side to the other at some particular year or it's on which ever side the steering wheel's on.
If I remember rightly it's a small black box about 30cm behind the bonnet release at about the same level as the release almost above the top of the kick panel. It has a red stick type button sticking up out of the top.
Troy
If I remember rightly it's a small black box about 30cm behind the bonnet release at about the same level as the release almost above the top of the kick panel. It has a red stick type button sticking up out of the top.
Troy
#11
Not to come off like a wise *** but as complicated as these cars may look, they are fairly simple In the scheme of things but you have take the the same diagnostic approach on a newer car. Sometimes half the battle can be finding what your looking for.
1. Does it crank over.
No? Then check battery, stater, alarm issues.
Yes On to step 2
2 Does it have fuel?
I like to go right to the meat of it an open the fuel line. Crank the engine with the line off and ther should be a large stream of fuel at a good pressure. If you have a gauge 40 psi or better.
NO? Then time to look at the pump, is it on and not flowing well ( volume and pressure) ie restriction in the lines ie clogged filter or bad pump. Bad relay not turning pump on ect.
Yes good pressure and good volume. Still might be a pump because it's supplying good volume at the correct pressures but if it is a t least comming on and pumping out fuel at a good rate. But call it yes and move on
3 spark pull a wire and plug. See what the plug looks like. Gas soaked, oil fouled, worn out ect. And have someone crank the engine and physically look for spark, if not then check the distributor and see if its getting spark in but not out, chek the coil ans see if its getting spark out.
It all looks overwhelming but you have to start somewhere and as hard as it can be to fix your own car at times it's a lot harder to fix them over the internet.
This is the basic stuff electricity to crank, fuel to run and spark to fire. Odds are if it was just running and died with no clue then it's going to be a fuel/spark issue and with a little more info you can be lead on where to go specifically.
Hope that helps
Fwiw I just had the same issue. The car died on an exit ramp with no prior hiccups and no warning. $100 tow later and it turned out to be a defective ignition roter that had maybe 500 miles on it. Fixed that car ran great and then in less than 20 miles it started leKing coolant and I had to pull the intake and replace all the hoses on the left side of the engine, I think there are 15.
All in all it's not new anymore but both my repairs were less than 1 monthly payment on a used Toyota Yaris so I say I came out ahead.
1. Does it crank over.
No? Then check battery, stater, alarm issues.
Yes On to step 2
2 Does it have fuel?
I like to go right to the meat of it an open the fuel line. Crank the engine with the line off and ther should be a large stream of fuel at a good pressure. If you have a gauge 40 psi or better.
NO? Then time to look at the pump, is it on and not flowing well ( volume and pressure) ie restriction in the lines ie clogged filter or bad pump. Bad relay not turning pump on ect.
Yes good pressure and good volume. Still might be a pump because it's supplying good volume at the correct pressures but if it is a t least comming on and pumping out fuel at a good rate. But call it yes and move on
3 spark pull a wire and plug. See what the plug looks like. Gas soaked, oil fouled, worn out ect. And have someone crank the engine and physically look for spark, if not then check the distributor and see if its getting spark in but not out, chek the coil ans see if its getting spark out.
It all looks overwhelming but you have to start somewhere and as hard as it can be to fix your own car at times it's a lot harder to fix them over the internet.
This is the basic stuff electricity to crank, fuel to run and spark to fire. Odds are if it was just running and died with no clue then it's going to be a fuel/spark issue and with a little more info you can be lead on where to go specifically.
Hope that helps
Fwiw I just had the same issue. The car died on an exit ramp with no prior hiccups and no warning. $100 tow later and it turned out to be a defective ignition roter that had maybe 500 miles on it. Fixed that car ran great and then in less than 20 miles it started leKing coolant and I had to pull the intake and replace all the hoses on the left side of the engine, I think there are 15.
All in all it's not new anymore but both my repairs were less than 1 monthly payment on a used Toyota Yaris so I say I came out ahead.
The following users liked this post:
mrtalkradio (01-01-2014)
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
Vector
US Lower Atlantic
0
08-26-2015 05:36 AM
NinoGrimace
S-Type / S type R Supercharged V8 ( X200 )
1
08-26-2015 05:15 AM
Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 1 (0 members and 1 guests)