92 Sovereign 4.0 LHD bought cheap project able to run if fuel poured into intake seller had it cranking on key with boost pack fuel gauge empty.

Got home fresh battery fuel guage half but it cranks by self when in park - checked starter relay with another does sane dash shows Fuse 1, Fuse 2 & PAD whatever that is ? Also under hood found by battery this mess what is it ?

When it’s cranking it’s not starting or attempting to do so - I am suspecting the switch pack on back of ignition switch waiting to meet up with the guy that has one for a month now 😡 - however I’d like to get it running again so I can cut the grass and obviously do the bodywork

I don’t get why it’s cranking byself in Park but not in neutral - Help !!

 

The fuse 1 and fuse 2 alerts tell you there are blown fuses in the kick panel fuseboxes. I believe the right side box is fuse 1 and left side is fuse 2. The PAD alert tells you that a brake pad wear sensor needs checked.
When you started it with the boost pack, did it also crank as soon as the pack was attached?
I would look at the switch on the column. How is the action of the key and the rotation of it? Does the key go in and out easily? Maybe someone was in there trying to do something else and unhooked the electric section leaving it in the "crank" position.... youll need to remove the lower column cover to see that. If you know why the car was parked it may help you along to a quicker solution.
Not sure what / which mess under the hood you mean, maybe try posting a pic for better advice there.
Starting (or trying to) in park but not neutral say your safety switch needs adjustment, or maybe just cleaned... Its on the trans tunnel under the console.
Good luck, keep us posted...
ALSO--- Please post an intro in the New Member section. Pics are always appreciated too! Lets see this beauty.

 

The seller had it on boost pack with dead battery and I was inside turned key to #3 and it cranked on demand it ran as he put gas down a rubber hose on throttle body ran very well no ticks or rumbles sounded fantastic considering sitting undetermined period

when I got home and fitted fully charged battery it cranks byself on position #2

the seller had removed window switch pack from drivers door as windows auto lowered explains fuse 1 & 2

i researched and found brown 6 way connector is for diagnostic it has a black wire jumping pins on the female side that look factory it appears to be degraded due to sulphate from battery and I’ll disconnect battery and clean up with CLR before I cut and replace so I know wire colours to solder and heatshrink

i am thinking switch pack on back of ignition switch as I pulled the starter relay and the key freely turns to position 3 if I put car in neutral it will click the solenoid so it could also be XYZ switch on gearbox which if it is same as claimed ZF4HP24 I have a known good one on a Range Rover P38 from 1997

 

I posted on the new members section so you can see it

here is The corroded socket

What’s left of it next to battery

What I guess it supposed to be

 

Story as to why parked the seller was selling on behalf of widow of owner a retired Canadian Air Force guy who allegedly brought car up from Florida however I doubt this as found service records from Toronto around YOM and state of fender lowers and rockers along with a suspect story that the hood ornament was paid for as a retirement gift from colleagues only sign of this is a butchers job on the underside of the hood but that could be dealer as I don’t think they all came with them the trunk got damaged due to it being hit with a large truck sliding into it on driveway ice during winter however evidence of half assed pokery with the window switches and no explanation as to why it wasn’t pumping fuel I thought the inertia switch could have been triggered by the trunk impact but not the case so once I can get to crank properly I’ll have to fit a new fuel pump and at first opportunity replace the crank sensor as I know with Land Rovers they regularly fail, my intentions are to replace the trunklid this week from a donor then get running then remove the fenders either let in new metal and then rhinoguard the inside or replace the fenders depending on the seller of the trunklid, I have a new set of E39 BBS 16’s for it and am looking for a trunk spoiler and 4 beam headlamps so I can fit LED halos - the interior is mint the radio has to go as I’ll fit the same Alpine mechless Bluetooth unit I have in one of my Range Rovers

 

Excellent, you obviously have a good grasp of the situation. It's very interesting that the switch would behave differently with a good battery. I'd be curious to see what is going on there. I'll check my 92 tomorrow and see what sort of connector mine has there. Maybe that will shed a bit more light...

 

Mine has that connector too. It has 4 wires going from the car and 3 black coming out jumpered together. Not sure what it does, but that its an option WE dont have on OUR cars. Maybe an electrics expert can shed more light on its purpose...

4 wires going in, one of them black, to 3 black coming out jumpered together.

 

Hi Domperodeau,

Welcome to the Jaguar Forums! It's great to have you with us!

You can download the wiring diagrams for your car at the link below. Note the wiring color codes near the front of the manual, which will help you identify the corroded connector.

Jaguar XJ40 Electrical Guide 1991-1992

Cheers,

Don

 

When I get the trunklid tomorrow from sellers donor I’ll cut that connector and replace mine - I don’t think it’s related to my actual issue but should be reinstated regardless- I think the black jumpers stop the VCM from faulting codes and are probably removed when using the diagnostic tool of which I’d like to get hold of - my 87 Range Rover Classic is pre-OBD and each unit ie AIR suspension, ABS has individual test plugs so I’m assuming that the Jag system is along the same lines