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I know there are generic ones that will fit the earlier cars, but are there generic ones that will fit the '93-'94 cars with the compression fitting that threads into the cylinder head? We'd be grateful if you can point us to a source for those.
No heat in winter, no A/c in summer, its just the jag reverting to form If the heater valve is scrap and the one you have is also NFG then there are generic ones that will fit. I have one on my ‘66 ‘S’ that I fitted 20+ years ago.
Actually both heat and A/C work ...it's just that the flaps get stuck now and then if I have the system on AUTO. Say the morning is cool and I have the heat set at 20-ish (celsius, so about 70 F) ..I drive around and the heat comes on. Fine.
Later in the day temps move up and cabin temp goes over 20/70 degrees, so system switches over to cooling. Fine again.
I park the car say at 4 o'clock, and when I park, it's delivering cooling. If I then drive the car say at 10.00 pm, when it might be a bit chilly again, I still get cooling, not warming ...however after an overnight parking, system starts up as heating again, so that's the quirky setup I have ATM..
The leak started again yesterday, a couple of weeks will no issues and then - leak starts right up again. .
Nothing for it but to get that wiper motor out of the way and swap out the valve. Hopefully that's where it's leaking as I STILL can't see any evidence of a leak ..
Had a good look today and decided to have a go at replacing the valve. The fitting is 15/16" at the head end and there was no way, even with the wiper motor off, I could get a regular wrench on it, least of all undo it.
I imagine there MIGHT be a way to get on it with a crowsfoot attached to a u-joint but let me tell you there isn't much maneuverability/room in there, especially with any type of 15/16" wrench that I can think of ...maybe possible with an offset ratchet open ender I guess - if such a tool exists .,..
Has anybody managed to change one of these valves without pulling the intake manifold off? (on the '94 the intake is a one-piece affair)
I guess I'll go shopping for an intake manifold gasket if I can't get a wrench onto the valve .
Has anybody managed to change one of these valves without pulling the intake manifold off? (on the '94 the intake is a one-piece affair)
I never did. I replaced mine twice and pulled the intake manifold both times, but I made a list of other things to do while I had the intake pulled, like cleaning the oil pressure sensor threads, cleaning the EGR/purge valve port, replacing any gaskets or seals that were leaking at the oil filter housing, bypass hose, dipstick tube, oil filler pipe tube (which your car doesn't have), and consider replacing that coolant hose at the front of the water rail - it will decide to leak shortly after you reinstall the intake manifold.
OMG! What will they add a ratchet to next??? You make me wonder how I did that with the Moneyfunnel.... As I recall now, I took the wiper motor out which was a colossal pain in itself... I still say there was no car climbing though....
I have a few of the Gearwrench combination wrenches with that mechanism, and I find them frustratingly underwhelming. The wrench is supposed to secure the fastener when rotated in the indicated direction, then the black cog is supposed to release when rotated in the other direction to reset for another twist. I don't find that they tighten on the fastener well even in the direction they're supposed to be tight. I hope you have better luck with the crowsfoot than I've had with the combo wrenches. Maybe I just expected the technique and operation to be easier and more intuitive.
I have a few of the Gearwrench combination wrenches with that mechanism, and I find them frustratingly underwhelming. The wrench is supposed to secure the fastener when rotated in the indicated direction, then the black cog is supposed to release when rotated in the other direction to reset for another twist. I don't find that they tighten on the fastener well even in the direction they're supposed to be tight. I hope you have better luck with the crowsfoot than I've had with the combo wrenches. Maybe I just expected the technique and operation to be easier and more intuitive.
Cheers,
Don
That's reassuring Don!
I'm borrowing a 15/16" regular crowfoot in a couple of days, so I'll see if anything is possible with that tool first. Friend questioned the size when I asked for the loan as he knew car was metric, but yes, for some reason the size is SAE not metric and indeed 15/16" ...
One good thing about the photo in the wrecked manifold thread is that I can *now* see the position of the 15/16" nut on the (snapped off) heater water valve ..looks super accessible ...NOT!
Friend questioned the size when I asked for the loan as he knew car was metric, but yes, for some reason the size is SAE not metric and indeed 15/16" ...
That was a good catch on the size, Larry!
Until Ford began to modernize Jaguar parts sourcing, Jaguar used a lot of SAE parts, some of them from General Motors. Some of the other SAE fasteners I can think of off the top of my head are the lower ball joint screws and the axle U-joint nuts. Seems like the oil pressure transducer/sender/switch hex is also SAE.
Well after a week of searching for a tool to remove and reinstall the heater valve MMB6711AA, I finally managed to do the job without removing anything but just unclipping the electrical plug to the immediate right of the unit.
I used a plain (homemade) 15/16" crowfoot with about 12" of extensions that passed between the heater hoses to the ratchet. Pipe over the ratchet was needed to unfreeze the initial stuck nut, but once it cracked loose, it was pretty much hand tight the rest of the way. The old valve was very sticky and jammed here and there, (primarily when closed) so was defective for sure.
That's the positive side of the equation.
Replacement valve is working fine, switching from A/C to heat, working properly. Trouble is, replacement valve is leaking
Playing around with the old jammed up valve this morning, I gave it a shot of benzine (lighter fluid) and that washed a bit of the crud off the nylon ball, freeing it up a bit.
Followed on with some light oil, disconnected the vacuum arm to the pivot and reinserted the Phillips screw. Rotating the ball with a screwdriver and repeatedly washing out any debris muck etc., the ball began to free up even more. Washed out the oil residue with some alcohol and even more black goo came out.
At the moment I'd say the valve is working properly again ...of course it still probably leaks.
I'll have a look at the pivot to see whether there is any way to seal up that point - as far as I can tell, it can't leak anywhere else.
<edit>Oh and a quick question -
How is the earlier valve plumbed into the system - where is the take-off point? also at the head or elsewhere?
Larry
Last edited by Lawrence; 05-09-2019 at 11:18 AM.
Reason: question
I don't know if you can get it in Canada, but in the U.S. we have a product called CLR (Calcium, Lime and Rust), which is designed for cleaning mineral depostis out of household plumbing, but works really well on auto cooling system components too - I use it to clean heater cores. Might help remove any mineral deposits you haven't already flushed from your valve. I think our grocery stores stock it in the kitchen/cleaning area, and our home stores stock it too, in the cleaning or plumbing areas. It's not recommended for use on aluminum or brass, so I limit soak times to 30 minutes max. Use at your own risk.
The early heater valve was just inserted into the heater supply hose, near the firewall:
Hey Don, yes we have CLR up in Canada but the valve has no scale and seems perfectly free again.
The early heater valve was just inserted into the heater supply hose, near the firewall:
ah yes but how did the coolant get out of the engine and into the hose? - I suppose it was via EAC7189 but unfortunately that too is NLA/Discontinued.
If I could find a tube of the same diameter as the present valve intake (1/2" ID) and pick up an olive and nut to match, I suppose I could insert the tube into the head and use a couple of hose clamps to install an early valve with a hose "bridge" between.
Too bad Jaguar decided to NLA these parts, seems like they fail fairly often.
Not being able to locate a replacement, I have decided to fit an aftermarket valve - will update when I install it.
For others who need to remove this valve without taking off the manifold etc, this is the method I used.
Admittedly, I did have to make up a custom 15/16" crowfoot, the Snap-On one I borrowed didn't work as it needed to go OVER the nut and of course there was no room. Only a plain jaw crowfoot works.
15/16" but not 15/16" at the jaw - didn't work.
Not as pretty as the Snap-On but just the ticket!
It's all pretty tight around the valve and two things prevent access to the nut, the electrical connector and to a lesser degree, the EGR pipe below.
A crowded spot, the plug and the EGR pipe preventing crowfoot from engaging flats on valve nut.
Removing the electrical plug from it's clip (clip is on head side) and giving the EGR pipe a little push down (didn't need to go down much) allowed the crowfoot to engage from underneath. Two 6" extensions attached to the crowfoot and passed through the heater hoses to the open area back of the wiper motor allowed the ratchet to be engaged and got the nut to break free. I used a pipe over the ratchet handle.
Because of the limited access, the socket has to be re positioned at the base after every 1/4 turn.
All clear, ready to try getting the socket on to the nut.
Eventually the nut can be turned by hand. When the nut is undone, the valve just pulls out.
I've decided to go aftermarket with the heater valve and found a 4 seasons normally open vacuum unit.
It has hose fittings at both ends like the early Jag model, so in order to get from the 94 head compression fitting to a hose output, I 'modified ' the old leaking valve by cutting off both inlet and outlet sections off and putting the ins and outs together with a metal sleeve in between.
Radical, I know, but with both the pre 1990 head fitting NLA as well as the NLA late valve, I saw no alternative.
The sleeve, (which fits over the inlet and outlet pipes almost perfectly) is cut from a piece of standard electrical conduit tubing. ATM, it is held together with LA-CO heat stik, and although it is perfectly sealed and stable I'm going with belt and braces approach and adding JB weld over top and possibly internally too.
Is it marked with a maker's name, such as Goodell-Pratt, Millers Falls, or perhaps a German maker? I collect vintage and antique tools so I'm alway curious, and love to see quality old tools still in use.
<edit>or maybe it's a generic German tool - I remember when I bought it I also bought a bunch of other jewellery making tools, maybe it was the pliers that were Peer ..I just looked at the saw and it's unbranded.
Last edited by Lawrence; 05-11-2019 at 07:20 PM.
Reason: addl info
... [snip]I just looked at the saw and it's unbranded.
That same style of piercing saw has been a favorite among jewelers, luthiers, fretworkers and practitioners of marquetry since at least the 19th century and possibly far earlier. I have one with a rosewood handle by the U.S. firm Goodell-Pratt made c. WWI, and similar saws are still produced today, especially in Germany.
04-23-2019, 04:46 PM
If the heater valve is scrap and the one you have is also NFG then there are generic ones that will fit. I have one on my ‘66 ‘S’ that I fitted 20+ years ago.
Update
.
- I remember when I bought it I also bought a bunch of other jewellery making tools, maybe it was the pliers that were Peer ..I just looked at the saw and it's unbranded.