[QUOTE=Kristoff Rand;1556563]To lead off my Mother has already been here and many of you have helped her, I'm not sure of where her post is. I put this in the wrong section last time.

Avwhile back she ran.over a curb or what not and sinceb then it has not ran welland mostly not at all. When arrived and heard what happened, I started going over the nomal culprits

So we have a 91 XJ6. My mother ran over a curb and says she scraped it... I've inspect the undercarriage and fine no decernable damage.

On to the withering, suffering, no start.

I bought the car for her in 08 or 09... she always wanted one and I always dreamed of buying her one. So when I found this black Beauty I jumped on it. It had a battery terminal disconnect from the start...

Since 08/09 I've replaced the battery maybe 5 times. One of us will drive it and forget the knob or it touches something and drains.

Like most Jags she has some issues. I don't know that much about them, though I have been working on this one for sometime. Im going to list out the symptoms and the issues so that they can each be reviewed by the forum and advised

1. Issue: I have been gone for 1 year... (don't ask... a woman) well My mother says I'm the last one to put gas in it. And after draining it, there is 5 gallons of clean, but old 91 octane.

1. Solution : added 5 more gallons of 91 and suggested amounts of Seafood and Heet for the quantity of fuel and then added a little octane booster to keep it high.

2. Issue: Large Brown Plastic Connector near battery is melted and dead ends into a melted wad of wires.



2. Solution: ???
Melted and dead end connector


3. Issue: The gas cap and the fuel filler tube flip lid have rust. You'll also notice the horrendous looking clear liquid nails job I did on the filler neck gasket. It had rotted and was getting the trunk wet and causing mold. I'll get a new one sooner or later.


Rusty fuel fill

3. Solution : brushed rough rust off, grinder and sealed cap. Liquid nails in the gasket.
Till can't be

4. Issue: 3 different connectors in the trunk, the drivers side panel, have no mate, seemingly no where to go.




4. Solution : ???


5. Issue: air intake tube connecting mass air meter to 90 plastic elbow had 4 inch crack.

5. Solution : epoxy and tape. We don't have the $35 for a new one right now
Also taped and goued[/QUOTE

6. Issue: Coil has rotten boots,vl connectors on power terminal and one b is broken off and gone.

6. Solution : clean terminals, use other boots I have to weather proof.

[IMG]https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.jaguarforums.com-vbulletin/2000x1124/80-1477299060016_1720275493_45ce0d93a08b8e1731110816d 4099c3874281f89.jpg[/IMG
[I]Coil with cleaned terminals[/I


7. Issue : distributor cap had burnt Terminals and leads

7. Solution : I used a Dremel, a buffing wheel and a sand g wheel to.light renew the edges.


8. Issue :
8. solution

 

To lead off my Mother has already been here and many of you have helped her, I'm not sure of where her post is. I put this in the wrong section last time.

Awhile back she ran.over a curb or what not and sinceb then it has not ran welland mostly not at all. When arrived and heard what happened, I started going over the nomal culprits

So we have a 91 XJ6. My mother ran over a curb and says she scraped it... I've inspect the undercarriage and fine no decernable damage.

On to the withering, suffering, no start.

I bought the car for her in 08 or 09... she always wanted one and I always dreamed of buying her one. So when I found this black Beauty I jumped on it. It had a battery terminal disconnect from the start...

Since 08/09 I've replaced the battery maybe 5 times. One of us will drive it and forget the knob or it touches something and drains.

Like most Jags she has some issues. I don't know that much about them, though I have been working on this one for sometime. Im going to list out the symptoms and the issues so that they can each be reviewed by the forum and advised

1. Issue: I have been gone for 1 year... (don't ask... a woman) well My mother says I'm the last one to put gas in it. And after draining it, there is 5 gallons of clean, but old 91 octane.

1. Solution : added 5 more gallons of 91 and suggested amounts of Seafood and Heet for the quantity of fuel and then added a little octane booster to keep it high.

2. Issue: Large Brown Plastic Connector near battery is melted and dead ends into a melted wad of wires.



2. Solution: ???
Melted and dead end connector


3. Issue: The gas cap and the fuel filler tube flip lid have rust. You'll also notice the horrendous looking clear liquid nails job I did on the filler neck gasket. It had rotted and was getting the trunk wet and causing mold. I'll get a new one sooner or later.


Rusty fuel fill

3. Solution : brushed rough rust off, grinder and sealed cap. Liquid nails in the gasket.
Till can't be

4. Issue: 3 different connectors in the trunk, the drivers side panel, have no mate, seemingly no where to go.




4. Solution : ???


5. Issue: air intake tube connecting mass air meter to 90 plastic elbow had 4 inch crack.

5. Solution : epoxy and tape. We don't have the $35 for a new one right now
Also taped and goued[/QUOTE

6. Issue: Coil has rotten boots,vl connectors on power terminal and one b is broken off and gone.

6. Solution : clean terminals, use other boots I have to weather proof.

7. Issue : distributor cap had burnt Terminals and leads

7. Solution : I used a Dremel, a buffing wheel and a sand g wheel to.light renew the edges.

8. Issue : needing to check fuel pressure and having no gauges
8. solution : I slowly unscrewed to fuel pressure regulatetor, once saw high gas was leak I tried
in.


7. Issue : distributor cap had burnt Terminals and leads

7. Solution : I used a Dremel, a buffing wheel and a sand g wheel to.light renew the edges.

10. Issue : no start
10. Attempted solution : checked ignition module under coil, it was only half plugged in and extremlydirty. So I cleaned and
10. Results :

X. Issue : no start
X. Solution : new plglugs
X. Results : still no start

X. Issue : no start
X. Solution : check plug wires for spark and order
X. Redults :spark off of #6 and order placed at 6 to 1 from the back

 

I read through your list. Seems like a lot of things wrong. I'll start with the ignition since I personally just had this problem last week on our Mitsubishi. Check the distributor caps' rotor button. On our (stupid) car the spring behind the button was shot and was not making contact to the rotor. Also, I suggest investing in a new cap and rotor anyway if they were that bad. There are set gaps at those terminals too and while I have done the same thing, the scraping increases the gap causing loss of voltage. As far as the terminals on the trunk, I think one goes to the brake wear sensor , one goes to the fuel pump, and one goes to the SLS system which is probably deleted- most were. Good luck

 

Hi Kristoff,

You posted similar information twice in two separate threads, so I have merged both your posts into this thread so all the replies will come here instead of being split.

The first thing I would request is that you pick one of your posts and edit it to correct misspellings, add words that are missing, and complete words that are incomplete. Given the number of your concerns, I'd hate for others to have to assume the questions you are asking only to learn later that you were actually asking a different question.

Here are a few responses to your concerns in no particular order:

If the engine cranks but won't start, watch the tachometer while cranking. You should see about 200 rpm. If the tach reads 0 rpm while cranking, suspect the Crankshaft Position Sensor (CPS). A very common failure point and cause of no-start.

The XJ40 features the first style of On-Board Diagnostics (OBD1) and has a built-in fault reporting system. To check for any stored Diagnostic Trouble Codes (DTCs), turn the key to position II (ON) but do not start the engine. Press the VCM (Vehicle Condition Monitor) button on the trip computer panel to the right of the steering wheel. Now watch the small window below the speedometer for any messages. Fault codes appear in the form of Fuel Fail 69 or FF44. The definitions of each code, along with a diagnostic flow chart, are found in the AJ6 Engine Management System manual, which you can download at this link courtesy of our member Gus:

http://www.jagrepair.com/images/Auto...stem%20S91.pdf

Regarding the electrical connectors, the brown one appears to have had some wires shorted together, which might have been part of deleting the Self-Leveling Suspension that Jerry mentioned.

The other electrical connectors may have been for optional equipment that was not installed.

The 4-inch crack in the air pipe between the MAF and the elbow would definitely cause poor running due to the engine inhaling large quantities of unmetered air, causing the air-fuel ratio to be too lean.

Your second point 8. is of interest to me, but I cannot understand it as it is currently worded.

The fact that you have had to replace the battery so many times may suggest that the charging system isn't working well, possibly due to corrosion on battery power connections and ground points throughout the car, or a failed diode in the alternator, parasitic drain, or the car simply isn't driven often enough to overcome the normal quiescent drain of the car.

The corrosion on the fuel filler neck is not uncommon - the fuel filler rubber boot or gaiter fills up with water when it rains or the car is washed, leading to rust. In your photo, it appears that the sealant you added may have covered the drain hole where the drain tube connects. Plugging the drain hole will only compound your problem with rust on the filler neck.

Regarding the firing order, are you suggesting that you have connected the spark plug wires so the cylinders will fire in sequential order from 6 to 1? The correct firing order for the AJ6 engine is 1-5-3-6-2-4, and I think it does matter which distributor terminal the No. 1 spark plug wire is attached to for proper timing.

Which reminds me, if you do not have the Haynes XJ40 repair manual, you can download most of it at the link below (chapters 7 & 8 are missing from the scan, for some reason):

http://wilfredfoto.nl/XJ6%20Series%2...20(Haynes).pdf

I'll look forward to reading your post again after you've edited it for clarity.

Cheers,

Don

 

2 and 2

 

I see my post doubled some how... my apologies.

Also, I can't seem to edit them.

Before I get to answers of your questions, allow me to add extra info. Attached to this reply find a photo of my cap & rotor, my current firing order, and a video of the start and die issue.

Now I'll be going through you replies and posting mine in kind.

Video of start and die issue.

Photo of cap & rotor








My current firing orderived

 

Thanks for your time, yes quite a few issues. Being seldom employed home designers and basing our work online, we've had a few bad years and this have gotten away from us . This car being one of them.

I used a Dremel tool and tried to be as sparing as possible, might be right though may have to one. No spring in mine though.

Again, thanks for your time.

 

Yes, I think I have spoken with an admin through pm. I was pointed to this subforum as being the proper one for mynpost.

Here are a few responses to your concerns in no particular order:

If the engine cranks but won't start, watch the tachometer while cranking. You should see about 200 rpm. If the tach reads 0 rpm while cranking, suspect the Crankshaft Position Sensor (CPS). A very common failure point and cause of no-start.
[/QUOTE]

I have the top off the motor again, but I'll look for that next time.

Awesome info... the first one I get is.
PAO FUSE 1
Now I have something to play with... thanks.

Good, I was worried something was missing

I've sealed the MA'S the tube and elbow, should be close to normal now.

I'll revisit now.

All good points. I know there is some parasitic drain, and I know the lightning bolt on the dash board is on now. So I may lean towards alternator, but I'll create a check list to look at all of those before I go.


This "temp fix" was done the day of the original post and I use a penail in the drain hole for later draining and evacuation.


I attached the firing order I used in a reply above, and as far as I know, I followed the book. Let me know what you think.


Thanks for your help

 

What's so hard to read about that? Lmao...

Yeah so what i meant was..

I need to check the pressure in the fuel lines, but since I have no gauges to use, I disconnected a fitting on the fuel presure regulator and when gas began to leak out at a fairly quick rate, I assumed it had fuel pressure.

I also think the fuel tank is not pressuring because of the lose gas cap.

 

I think I have misunderstood the firing order... in the attached graphic, it shows the engine facin left and saying front. But what is the view? Is it from the top? Is it a separate view of the rotor than of the engine? Do I have my firing order upside down?

 

That appears to be an overhead view of the engine and distributor, and it does appear that your number 1 lead may be 2 or 3 terminals counter-clockwise from where it should be. It can't hurt to try moving the plug cables.

 

I did as you said and it started right up... so I'm back to the starting and then dying issue. Starts strong, runs for a few minutes and then bogs and dies.


If I try to give it gas it dies even quicker.

 

More random thoughts:

1. Have you followed up on the PAO Fuse 1 message you got from the VCM? Once you've resolved the fuse issue, check the VCM again for additional stored codes.

2. One possibility is a problem with the O2 sensor. When the engine first starts, the ECM ignores the O2 sensor while it heats up to operating temperature. IIRC, the ECM operates in open-loop fueling for around 20-30 seconds before it goes to closed-loop operation and begins referencing the O2S for its fueling calculations. If the O2S is stuck and is returning a voltage that tells the ECM to apply maximum fueling enleanment or enrichment, perhaps the engine is starving or choking.

You can test the O2S for proper operation by following the information in the AJ6 Engine Management System Diagnostic Manual.


3. Another important sensor is the coolant temperature sensor (CTS). When the engine is cold, its signal tells the ECM to apply cold-start fuel enrichment. When the engine warms up, its signal tells the ECM to discontinue the enrichment and return to normal fueling. If the CTS is stuck, the ECM may think the engine is hot when it's really cold, and vice versa.

You can test the CTS signal with an ohmmeter or voltmeter. In AJ6 EMS Diagnostic Manual there's a table showing what the CTS output should be at any given engine temperature (if the engine is "cold" its temp should be similar to ambient air temperature).

4. Like Jerry, I'm concerned that your distributor cap and rotor may not be optimal given the Dremel cleaning you did. Is it possible you increased the gap between the terminal at the end of the rotor and the side or plug terminals? Have you pulled a spark plug, grounded it and cranked the engine to check for a good blue/white spark as opposed to a weaker orange/yellow spark?

5. Another possible issue that comes to mind is excessive vacuum buildup in the fuel tank due to the carbon canister control valve, or "Rochester valve," sticking closed. I'm not sure that could cause your engine to stall in under 30 seconds, but perhaps it could contribute to your problem if there are also other malfunctions. When you open the gas cap after the engine has been running and stalled, do you hear a "whoosh" of air rushing into the fuel tank?

Cheers,

Don

 

I thank you for your time and helpful insights, I'll give those a try today.

As for the fuel, I used to hear a whoosh every time I open the gas cap... but now I do not. Now there is no whooch sound.

I think I'm without a multimeter or ohmmeter. So this may be hard.

And yes there is a chance I increased the gap on the cap and rotor. Do you think that could kill it so quick?

I did check on that fuse 1 and I got it found and replaced and it did not change the starting issue.

 

When I start the car, if I feather the gas ever so lightly the car will stay running as long as I do. If I give it too much gas it will die, if I stop giving it gas it will die. As long as I feather the gas it stay's running.

 

here's a low tech tip that might show you something ..

light a cigarette/cigar/joint/joss stick and pass it along the length of the air intake/manifold/vacuum hoses ...if the smoke gets sucked in anywhere, you've found your problem.

(edit) ONE of your problems!!!

Larry

 

Did a fuel system pressure test with a guage and it says leak at intake manifold. The gauge fluctuates quite a bit after starting. As I feather the gas it seems to leak when I give it gas. I'm posting a vido of the b test.

 

 

A few things I would check:

1. The torque spec for the intake manifold screws & nuts is fairly low, and I have on a couple of occasions discovered that one or more of mine was loose, so it would be worth checking that those are properly torqued.

2. On both of our XJ40s I had trouble with the underside of the air intake elbow collapsing where it is clamped to the rubber accordion hose that leads to the throttle body. I probably caused the problem by overtightening the hose clamp. When the lower edge of the opening on the underside of the elbow folded in on itself, it created a sizeable gap for unmetered air to be inhaled. It took me awhile to figure it out because the it's not visible when the intake is installed. In the photo below you can see the rough edge where I made a repair by pop-riveting the hose clamp to the elbow to provide support at the collapsed spot. I eventually replaced the elbow with one from an X300 (I don't know if the same part will fit a '91):




3. The crankcase breather hoses harden over time and become susceptible to cracking, so check them carefully.

4. The Idle Air Control Valve becomes filled with carbon buildup over time which can prevent the stepper motor plunger from seating completely. Your IACV may be a little different, but the photos at the link below show the carbon that had built up in ours:

Welcome to Jag-lovers - Members Photo Viewing Page

5. A stuck open EGR valve can cause similar symptoms, but I think it will usually trigger a fault code (DTC).

Cheers,

Don

 

Thanks...