more on keyless entry
#1
![Default](/forum/images/icons/icon1.gif)
Hi people and a big thanks to Greykitty.
I received the replacement module and keyfob today.
I have just finished fitting the module and it works a treat.
My baby's remote lock/unlock is now functional again and now running on R/F rather than the original I/R.
I removed the original I/R module in the overhead console and snipped the wires from the plug and then placed them into the new module as per Greykitty's instructions...... extremely simply to follow and install.
The case was ever so slightly bigger than the original module and thus would not quite sit all the way into the steel clips, but a slight adjustment and the use of the included cable ties and she is snug as a bug in a rug.
I also decided to remove the I/R receiver dome from the original and left it pushed into the existing hole so it still looks original.
The receiver antenna I have left coiled and sitting on along the mirror mounting shaft.... not really noticeable or obtrusive.
I do seem to have developed a problem though, I mentioned it in another post. Some time between testing the I/R remotes system by jumping the pins and ordering the module and fob from Greykitty.....
My driver (right) door no longer operates through the central locking unless I use the key in that door specifically or push/pull that door knob.
If I lock/unlock the car using the passenger door, it will lock/unlock all but the driver's door. yet if I use the driver's door, it will operate all doors.
Same thing is happening with the panic button on the centre console and also using the keyless entry.
I decided to pull off the door trim today and check out the wiring and circuits.
When I disconnect the larger plug, there are 5 pins, 3 at the top and 2 at the bottom. If I use my little circuit tester and touch the 2 bottom pins the door locks actuate (lock/unlock respectively) and if I test the top pins.... the left one (looking at it front on) does nothing.... the centre pin shows power to it when pressing the lock button on the fob and the right pin shows power when pressing the fob button to lock..... so this impulse is definitely getting to the plug but does not seem to be actuating the solenoid that is the central locking.
This suggests to me that the actual solenoid has failed.... I had a quick look at the situation but can not figure out how to remove the unit..... it feels like there are 2 screws on the outer (door skin) side but I do not have any bent screwdrivers to get to it. Will look at it again at another time, I can only assume that as it works with the key, it is possibly a bad solder or break within the solenoid itself.
Also while I had the door trims off, I re-checked what I suspected as far as the door locks are concerned.
From my understanding there are supposed to be 2 micro-switches on each front handle.... one for the key barrel and the other I can only assume to electronically open the door (under the rocker arm)..... this one seems to be missing from both my door handles.....
I also do not have the heater element or temp sensor fitted to mine....
Inside the door itself, the plugs are present in the wiring loom to cater to these other fittings but not connected to anything. (a shame, I guess the heater is not really necessary in our climate)
Anyway, besides a faulty locking module on the driver door..... the new remote system works wonderfully......
Again a great big thank you to Greykitty....
Added thought:
While I had the overhead console off, I also notice a couple of wires with thin cylindrical plugs on the end that are not connected to anything
One is black and the other is brown with white trace.... IIRC the black cylindrical plug is male and the other is female....
They appear to be running to the Aux circuits 20amp fuse in the driver side (right) fuse box...
My original thought was maybe it had had another keyless entry fitted at some time, but these wires do not look like they have been added, as they seem to be part of the loom.
Can anyone shed any light on what this maybe for? I have looked through the schematics and can not locate it.
I received the replacement module and keyfob today.
I have just finished fitting the module and it works a treat.
My baby's remote lock/unlock is now functional again and now running on R/F rather than the original I/R.
I removed the original I/R module in the overhead console and snipped the wires from the plug and then placed them into the new module as per Greykitty's instructions...... extremely simply to follow and install.
The case was ever so slightly bigger than the original module and thus would not quite sit all the way into the steel clips, but a slight adjustment and the use of the included cable ties and she is snug as a bug in a rug.
I also decided to remove the I/R receiver dome from the original and left it pushed into the existing hole so it still looks original.
The receiver antenna I have left coiled and sitting on along the mirror mounting shaft.... not really noticeable or obtrusive.
I do seem to have developed a problem though, I mentioned it in another post. Some time between testing the I/R remotes system by jumping the pins and ordering the module and fob from Greykitty.....
My driver (right) door no longer operates through the central locking unless I use the key in that door specifically or push/pull that door knob.
If I lock/unlock the car using the passenger door, it will lock/unlock all but the driver's door. yet if I use the driver's door, it will operate all doors.
Same thing is happening with the panic button on the centre console and also using the keyless entry.
I decided to pull off the door trim today and check out the wiring and circuits.
When I disconnect the larger plug, there are 5 pins, 3 at the top and 2 at the bottom. If I use my little circuit tester and touch the 2 bottom pins the door locks actuate (lock/unlock respectively) and if I test the top pins.... the left one (looking at it front on) does nothing.... the centre pin shows power to it when pressing the lock button on the fob and the right pin shows power when pressing the fob button to lock..... so this impulse is definitely getting to the plug but does not seem to be actuating the solenoid that is the central locking.
This suggests to me that the actual solenoid has failed.... I had a quick look at the situation but can not figure out how to remove the unit..... it feels like there are 2 screws on the outer (door skin) side but I do not have any bent screwdrivers to get to it. Will look at it again at another time, I can only assume that as it works with the key, it is possibly a bad solder or break within the solenoid itself.
Also while I had the door trims off, I re-checked what I suspected as far as the door locks are concerned.
From my understanding there are supposed to be 2 micro-switches on each front handle.... one for the key barrel and the other I can only assume to electronically open the door (under the rocker arm)..... this one seems to be missing from both my door handles.....
I also do not have the heater element or temp sensor fitted to mine....
Inside the door itself, the plugs are present in the wiring loom to cater to these other fittings but not connected to anything. (a shame, I guess the heater is not really necessary in our climate)
Anyway, besides a faulty locking module on the driver door..... the new remote system works wonderfully......
Again a great big thank you to Greykitty....
Added thought:
While I had the overhead console off, I also notice a couple of wires with thin cylindrical plugs on the end that are not connected to anything
One is black and the other is brown with white trace.... IIRC the black cylindrical plug is male and the other is female....
They appear to be running to the Aux circuits 20amp fuse in the driver side (right) fuse box...
My original thought was maybe it had had another keyless entry fitted at some time, but these wires do not look like they have been added, as they seem to be part of the loom.
Can anyone shed any light on what this maybe for? I have looked through the schematics and can not locate it.
Last edited by red_101au; 04-10-2014 at 01:24 AM. Reason: after thought
#2
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Red
Thanks for the Kudos on the remote FOB System.
and keeping the dome for original look is a great idea.
I have those same two wires in my overhead and they are also not connected to anything in either of my 89's. Never bothered to trace them out.
I can tell you that my black 89 had both the IR and RF systems and these two wires were not connected to anything in that car.
**test the solenoid before pulling it**
I tested the solenoind Before I pulled the assy. the two wires purple/pink and purple/orange on the bottom row (3pins) are your sol. wires. they should be ~3.5 ohms. that will indicate a good solenoid. if it tests bad...hi resistance or open, then...
To the solenoid removal...painstaking....used a 4" 90 degree phillips to get the screws out. they are about 1-1/4" long.
my problem turned out to be a binding latch assembly , had to pull that , wow was I glad I pulled it , it was almost impossible for the soleniod to pull down on the small plasic piece. I totally disassembled and cleaned the mechanism, relubed and put back together. Before cleaning , my 8 amp power supply would not Lock the assy.
now after a thorough clean and lube , it barely registers 2 amps. something to be said for clean and lube.
Thanks for the Kudos on the remote FOB System.
and keeping the dome for original look is a great idea.
I have those same two wires in my overhead and they are also not connected to anything in either of my 89's. Never bothered to trace them out.
I can tell you that my black 89 had both the IR and RF systems and these two wires were not connected to anything in that car.
**test the solenoid before pulling it**
I tested the solenoind Before I pulled the assy. the two wires purple/pink and purple/orange on the bottom row (3pins) are your sol. wires. they should be ~3.5 ohms. that will indicate a good solenoid. if it tests bad...hi resistance or open, then...
To the solenoid removal...painstaking....used a 4" 90 degree phillips to get the screws out. they are about 1-1/4" long.
my problem turned out to be a binding latch assembly , had to pull that , wow was I glad I pulled it , it was almost impossible for the soleniod to pull down on the small plasic piece. I totally disassembled and cleaned the mechanism, relubed and put back together. Before cleaning , my 8 amp power supply would not Lock the assy.
now after a thorough clean and lube , it barely registers 2 amps. something to be said for clean and lube.
The following 3 users liked this post by Greykitty:
#3
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cool about the extra wires.... was wondering what they are for, but if all your vehicles also had them and not connected.... I feel better about it knowing they are original and just not in use....
Having said that.... I wonder if they are for the VDP mirror lights on the visors????
as for the solenoid.... I have tried to test it as much as I can and it seems that it really is the solenoid at fault....
However I will test the ohms being out out later...
I feel it would be good to take it/them out and give a good service anyways.
Having said that.... I wonder if they are for the VDP mirror lights on the visors????
as for the solenoid.... I have tried to test it as much as I can and it seems that it really is the solenoid at fault....
However I will test the ohms being out out later...
I feel it would be good to take it/them out and give a good service anyways.
#4
![Default](/forum/images/icons/icon1.gif)
Just want to make sure you know...I did not service the black solenoid at all , it was a sealed unit and it tested good electrically . I found my problem when
I manually moved the "arm" that the solenoid was connected to. It was clearly apparent I had a problem there. Very difficult for me to move the arm up and even more difficult to move the arm dowm on the pivot point.
ALSO... I think we have the answer to the two "extra" wires...
Found this on Ebay.........Jaguar XJ40, XJ6 Right Illuminated Sunvisor BEC9594SDC
I manually moved the "arm" that the solenoid was connected to. It was clearly apparent I had a problem there. Very difficult for me to move the arm up and even more difficult to move the arm dowm on the pivot point.
ALSO... I think we have the answer to the two "extra" wires...
Found this on Ebay.........Jaguar XJ40, XJ6 Right Illuminated Sunvisor BEC9594SDC
Last edited by Greykitty; 04-11-2014 at 12:09 PM.
#5
![Default](/forum/images/icons/icon1.gif)
Greykitty,
Unfortunately I have not had time or chance to get anything more done on my kitty.
As a sideline, I do some backyard body work on cars and resprays of panels etc.
A friend of mine bought his car around and I have been concentrating on repairing the damage to that...... had to panel out the guard, bumper, hood and drivers door....
A little filling and then touch-up spray..
So I guess I will not be getting anything done on mine for a week or so![Frown](https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/images/smilies/frown.gif)
wow, what a guess...... pretty much what I guessed it must be.
Unfortunately I have not had time or chance to get anything more done on my kitty.
As a sideline, I do some backyard body work on cars and resprays of panels etc.
A friend of mine bought his car around and I have been concentrating on repairing the damage to that...... had to panel out the guard, bumper, hood and drivers door....
A little filling and then touch-up spray..
So I guess I will not be getting anything done on mine for a week or so
![Frown](https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/images/smilies/frown.gif)
wow, what a guess...... pretty much what I guessed it must be.
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