Well I'm hoping to have the car on the road by end of day tomorrow. I was out there today just tidying everything up and finishing all the little things.

I ran the vacuum line for my brake booster, and changed the Radiator reservoir cap cause I suspected it wasn't building pressure.

I also trimmed an electric fan I have from a Ford Taurus so it fit between the radiator and the engine, I just have to mount it now and run the wires.

I also found this plug on the driver's side inner fender, it was in the far corner near the brake pedal tower, wrapped in electrical tape. I peeled the tape off to find the paper clip in there jumping the terminals. One wire is orange, and the other is black with a pink tracer. Any ideas what it's for? I can't see any wires that match it.


Also getting a check engine light on the dash, when I press the VCM button with ignition on (but not running) it runs through all the possible warning messages and the check engine warning changes to "Check Engine 2"
I haven't looked up what that means yet, if anything

Cheers

 

David,

I believe your mystery connector is leftover from the SLS system, especially since it has a jumper across it. The original rear self leveling shock system could have been converted to traditional rear shocks while leaving the original brake system in tact. Why don't you remove the jumper and see if you don't get a new trouble condition on the VCM. I don't recall what the exact trouble condition was called, but it may refer to low fluid or something of the like. In it's original state, the brake and self leveling system shared the mineral oil fluid (green goo) as a contingency hydraulic system for the brakes (IIRC).

 

Check engine 2 is airflow meter 'not in operating range'
Could be as simple as cleaning the contacts on the MAF

 

Black with a pink trace I have a feeling is from the Bulb fail module, could be wrong.

 

The connector could be the SLS, as the car has been converted to standard suspension. If it is the bulb fail module, than the jumper isn't doing anything as that's one of my warning messages as well. I will pull the jumper out and see what message I get.

And since I have converted to vacuum boost I do have the low brake pressure warning, so I will have to jump a couple more connectors.

When I first started running the car and was having IACV problems, I un plugged the airflow sensor while it was running to see if it would run any better. Perhaps it that code hasn't reset yet?
Regardless cleaning the contacts wouldn't hurt so I may do that anyways.

 

If the orange wire has a purple tracer line, that connector may be for the low coolant sensor. If it has a blue tracer line, it may be for the low brake fluid sensor.

Cheers,

Don

 

Un plugging it does in fact trip the low coolant message. Which makes me wonder, what do I have the plug from the coolant reservoir plugged in to?

Regardless, I had the car out driving today and it will be my daily. My trusty 1987 Isuzu started burning ALOT of oil so I need something to drive while I rebuild that.

Pictures coming!

 

[url=https://postimg.org/image/j7sfxi3np/][/url

Not bad for 290,000 kms! Only issue so far is a central locking one. When using the key in the driver's door, it will unlock the driver's door, both rear doors, and the trunk, but not the front passenger door.
When using the key in the front passenger door, it will unlock the front passenger door, the trunk and both rear doors, but not the front driver door. Maybe a couple of bad actuators?

 

Lookin' good David, nice job!

 

Welcome to the wonderful world of xj40 door locks, I had the same problem and never got to the bottom of it even after replacing the actuators.

 

Lovely! Well maybe one day I might figure it out, but for now it doesn't bother me much.

Today at work I remove the HSMO reservoir and the silver Girling distribution block/valve block/what have you that was beside it, since my car no longer uses that system.

​​​​​​I tried to turn off my low brake pressure warning by cutting the pins on the connector that went to that distribution block, but after trying lots of combinations all I managed to do was blow a fuse in the armrest fuse panel.

Any ideas where I can find the necessary connector to jump to extinguish this low brake pressure warning?

 

David,

Don't despair on the locking system. You have spent considerable effort on a major engine swap. Now for the tedious, but easier work. Don B as a wonderful pictorial in his Jag-Lovers album collection which details locations for all grounds in the system. DO NOT dismiss this as unimportant on these vehicles. Many issues can be resolved or prohibited from occurring with a thorough cleaning of these ground points. Further, once this is done, you can feel confident about deeper trouble shooting for specific problems such as the locking system.

In regards to the locks,at this point in time, it does not sound like a component problem, it sounds like a communication problem. According to what you wrote, the key works both sides and both unlock/lock, but not at the same time. Rear doors work with both, so does the boot. Front doors aren't talking to each other. You may want to remove the door panels on both fronts and thoroughly clean and inspect the wiring harness and connectors in each to start with.

There is a central locking logic module under the passenger knee bolster. It's a rarity, but I have seen an instance where one contributor did have a problem with it. He opened the casing and discovered a solder point that appeared burnt.

In regards to the jumping of the brake connector, I have a cheat sheet on it somewhere, I'l attempt to look for it this evening. It's been 15 years since my conversion brake/SLS conversion was done. I've got it somewhere in digital format, just got to find it.

One more thing you will want/consider to do is remove the fuse blocks and examine/re-flow the solder connections. Again, this is "insurance" work to eliminate current or future issues with trouble shooting.

 

David,

I found one doc, but it's not the I was originally looking for. However, it deals with the locking system and the repair and replace of actuator. It may be helpful for trouble shooting. It indicated the which wires are for signaling to the control lock module. I'll continue to look for the brake info, hopefully someone will chime in with it.

In regard to the brakes, can you be specific on the trouble signal. It makes a difference on which connector pins needs to have a jump placed. Is it "Anti Lock Brake Failure", "Brake Fluid Low" or "Brake Failure"?

 

I found this, though still not the one I was looking for. This is the schematic for the VCM display and it shows you where the trouble codes originate from. Pages two and three should be laid side by side so its easier to follow.

 

Thank you for that, I haven't given up on the locks but at this point in time it's low on the priority list.

It was the "low brake pressure" warning, which I managed to fix this morning. I popped the Right Front wheel onto the curb, crawled under the car and looked untill I found the accumulator sphere, when I jumped the yellow/red wire with it's brown/pink counterpart, no more warning message.


I'm currently looking into another problem. Upon initial startup, the idle lopes up and down consistently, untill the car is put in gear and held stationary for 5-10 seconds, then it smooths out.
I thought that would clear up once the ECM ran the engine for awhile, but it has not yet cleared up.
I thought it may have been because the 1989 ECM is running a 1994 IAC valve, but even if I un plug the IAC, it still lopes.
I have to go around and clean the MAF, IAC, Throttle body, and all their associated connectors.

 

Hi All,

Found these in my door pocket. Are they keyless lock/unlock, or just a flashlight?

 

hello David,
I have the same with my 3.6 Jag
infrared keyless

http://www.jcsovejag.com/jaguarxj/xj40_telecommande.php

 

Awesome, I just tried one today and it worked, well kind of.

The remote will lock and unlock both rear doors and the trunk but neither front door. This goes back to my power lock issue a few posts above. Once I figure out my IAC issue, the door panels will be coming off and I'll be playing with the central lock system.

Cheers!

 

With the loping you might find cleaning the IAC helps? They do get quite gummed up with coke. The black stuff not white

 

I solved it in another thread. Basically the only difference I saw between the 1989 intake and the 1994 intake was the 1994 had an extra hole about 1.5" diameter between the 2 passages for the IAC unit, going straight into the intake chamber. The 1989 IAC body didnt like that, and using the 1994 IAC body worked alot better, but it was still loping.

I determined that the ECU on the 1994 cars must compensate for this larger hole, as I made a new gasket that blocked off that larger hole, and all was working properly.

This evening I also started making my fan shroud. As the ford electric fan body had to be extensively trimmed to fit in the Jag, it left about 3 inches of wide open space down both sides, between the fan and the radiator. Not very efficient!

I bent some sheetmetal "flaps" to close up the sides and pop-riveted them to the plastic fan body. Ive also incorporated some more pernament lower mounts for the electric fan (I had temporarily zip-tied the bottom of the fan to the factory lower shroud mount).
I still have to close up the top a little bit, and then paint the flaps. Even with the flaps Ive added, I notice the fan cools it down quicker.