My free XJ40: 3.6l - 4.0l swap
#61
Power lock fun time
I drove my mum to work this morning, and she strong-armed the front passenger door closed, pulling the panel out of all the clips along the bottom. Seemed like a good time to inspect the door lock actuator.
The actuator is talking to the lock ECU, as it will lock and unlock the other doors off the key and from the lock stalk. I checked and I am in fact getting power to the connector inside the door, for the lock/unlock command. I tried powering the actuator with a 9v battery, and there was nothing. To rule out the possibility of not having enough voltage, I pulled the little 12v battery out of my dirt bike, and tried to power the actuator. Still nothing.
So seems to me like this actuator is dead. And considering the driver's door acts the same, it sounds to me like I need 2 new actuators.
Cheers, David
The actuator is talking to the lock ECU, as it will lock and unlock the other doors off the key and from the lock stalk. I checked and I am in fact getting power to the connector inside the door, for the lock/unlock command. I tried powering the actuator with a 9v battery, and there was nothing. To rule out the possibility of not having enough voltage, I pulled the little 12v battery out of my dirt bike, and tried to power the actuator. Still nothing.
So seems to me like this actuator is dead. And considering the driver's door acts the same, it sounds to me like I need 2 new actuators.
Cheers, David
#62
Had a go at checking the rear suspension bushes. I've got a vibration between 40 and 60 kmh that felt like driveline.
I was suprised to find the rear lower control arm bushes, the fulcrum bearings, and the differential strut rod bushes were all tight. The subframe mounting bushes (2 big ones at the front) had some slight play but nothing major.
All the U joints were tight as well as the driveshaft center bearing. The Jurid was rock hard and full of cracks, so I am assuming that's causing my vibration.
I was also hoping to find out why the rear wheels have visible toe-in. According to the alignment rack, they are only toed in .4 degrees. Camber is negative as well. I am going to try finding and installing some camber shims in the rear, and hopefully the toe will come closer to spec.
The rear sits lower than the front by about half an inch, and I suppose that's why the alignment in the rear is out of whack. I think that's caused by a low quality SLS conversion, but since I'm not getting any clunks or ride quality issues, I plan to leave it, and lower the front to match. XJ40s look sharp with a slight lowering IMO
Cheers
I was suprised to find the rear lower control arm bushes, the fulcrum bearings, and the differential strut rod bushes were all tight. The subframe mounting bushes (2 big ones at the front) had some slight play but nothing major.
All the U joints were tight as well as the driveshaft center bearing. The Jurid was rock hard and full of cracks, so I am assuming that's causing my vibration.
I was also hoping to find out why the rear wheels have visible toe-in. According to the alignment rack, they are only toed in .4 degrees. Camber is negative as well. I am going to try finding and installing some camber shims in the rear, and hopefully the toe will come closer to spec.
The rear sits lower than the front by about half an inch, and I suppose that's why the alignment in the rear is out of whack. I think that's caused by a low quality SLS conversion, but since I'm not getting any clunks or ride quality issues, I plan to leave it, and lower the front to match. XJ40s look sharp with a slight lowering IMO
Cheers
#63
Cheers,
Don
The following 2 users liked this post by Don B:
93SB (09-24-2017),
MountainMan (09-24-2017)
#64
#65
Well, the new Jurid I got from Welsh enterprises solved my vibration. I noticed the replacement Jurid had arrows, I assume to help indicate proper orientation of the Jurid. The one I removed had no such markings, but it seemed to be in the correct orientation, and that matched up with the markings on my new one.
I also ordered a pair of black grille vanes from them.
For $25 US for a pair, I couldn't complain
I also ordered a pair of black grille vanes from them.
For $25 US for a pair, I couldn't complain
#66
#67
Hello all, I didn't think this warranted it's own thread...
On my light switch panel, I cannot for the life of me figure out what the middle switch does. Furthest left is obviously the 4 way flashers, the far right is for the rear fog lights (and I assume front but I don't have any on the car), but the middle switch doesn't seem to.do anything.
Cheers all!
On my light switch panel, I cannot for the life of me figure out what the middle switch does. Furthest left is obviously the 4 way flashers, the far right is for the rear fog lights (and I assume front but I don't have any on the car), but the middle switch doesn't seem to.do anything.
Cheers all!
#68
According to the early car handbook, the middle switch is for the front fogs (if fitted) but the symbol on the switch is different in the handbook illustration ...
The switch on your car has the map light symbol, not the fogs ...however, as these switch covers can be popped off to access the bulbs inside, it looks like someone MIGHT have replaced a broken cover showing a fog light symbol with a map light switch cover?
Do you have a similar switch with that symbol at the extreme right of the centre console, just by the radio? Or does that switch have the fog light symbol on it by any chance??
BTW have a spare early handbook from 88MY car VIN 554970
Larry
The switch on your car has the map light symbol, not the fogs ...however, as these switch covers can be popped off to access the bulbs inside, it looks like someone MIGHT have replaced a broken cover showing a fog light symbol with a map light switch cover?
Do you have a similar switch with that symbol at the extreme right of the centre console, just by the radio? Or does that switch have the fog light symbol on it by any chance??
BTW have a spare early handbook from 88MY car VIN 554970
Larry
Last edited by Lawrence; 11-02-2017 at 04:07 AM.
The following users liked this post:
Don B (11-02-2017)
#69
Doh! I have the handbook, didn't think to check.
It's the same switch as what's to the right of the radio. I don't have front fogs fitted, as one was smashed, so I removed them. So there is a separate switch for the front and rear fog lights?
And if anyone has a single or pair of the rectangular Bosch front fog lights, I'd be interested in purchasing them!
It's the same switch as what's to the right of the radio. I don't have front fogs fitted, as one was smashed, so I removed them. So there is a separate switch for the front and rear fog lights?
And if anyone has a single or pair of the rectangular Bosch front fog lights, I'd be interested in purchasing them!