I plan on converting to conventional as soon as I can because the self-leveling is not working. In the meantime it is leaking HSMO back near the diff. Is this typical of a failing system or do I have another problem too? Will the conversion to conventional solve my leak? I guess what I'm asking is does the conversion do away with most of the hydraulic plumbing and only leave the power steering system plumbing? Thanks in advance for your help.

 

The quick answer is Yes, it does away with the hydraulic bits, but just leaves your brakes in the system.

Are you sure that you are not in fact leaking from a brake line?

 

I hadn't looked but I thought my brakes were separate, just the power steering and the suspension were on the same system. I will check next time I am out in the garage. Thanks for the info.

 

the brakes are definitely part of the system and before it can be completely eliminated you'll need to convert the brake system to a vacuum boosted system as well.

 

Thanks for the info. Can I just close off the sls and leave the brakes and power steering on the hydraulic system? I don't think the conversion kit to convert to conventional rear suspension has anything to convert the brakes to vacuum.

 

I thought about doing this conversion years ago, didn't get around to it, but everything I read on the subject, leaves the existing brake pump affair as it is, but you need to add the blanking plug where you disconnected the SLS line from the pump.

Just dug a Haynes out, it clearly shows, said blanking plug in the existing brake booster and no conversion to classic type master cylinder and servo.

 

Thanks Translator, I wasn't looking forward to converting the brakes too.

 

This is a scan from Haynes sorry about the delay, couldn't find the link lead for this machine.

 

Thanks, you didn't have to go to that much trouble, but I do appreciate it.

I see that some conversion kits include new springs, others say not to replace the springs because it will ride to high. I think I will do the kit alone and add the springs later if it needs it. What are your thoughts?

 

Good discussion. This week, I noticed that there was some fluid coming from the right rear corner of my 1990 XJ6. It's dripping from near the right side of the differential. I assumed it was the suspension, but plan to get under and check the suspension, brake lines, etc. as soon as I can to determine where the problem lies. This week before Christmas has got me stressed out and there doesn't seem to be any time for the Jaguar. Plus, my daughter's friend ran her car over a curb and wiped out her oil pan, and I have been volunteered to replace that for her. So time is at a premium. Never seem to be able to find the time to work on my Jaguar?!

 

do the springs as well, otherwise you will bottom out on road bumps

 

I am on a '90 so if this dosen't apply to me sorry however my hydraulic system has nothing to do with brakes. Only power steering and the old suspension. My brake lines only lead to the master cylinder and brake booster pump which uses DOT 4 brake fluid I believe.

As for springs: they only need to be replaced if the self leveling suspension has not been working and the springs have held all of the car weight for a period of time and have become worn out. The bushings etc given in the conversion kit ensure proper ride height otherwise.

 

I understand there is a kit for the replacement of the SLS. Does anyone know the manufacturer of the kit and the cost (US$)? I may be doing this myself soon.

 

Autohaus AZ has a kit:

https://www.autohausaz.com/search/product.aspx?sid=mqeglob0femwvl55fihdru21&makeid=2 0@Jaguar&modelid=595~185~115~1~~5~7@XJ6%20Sovereig n%20%20&year=1991&cid=16@Suspension&gid=10920@Susp ension%20Installation%20Kit

You must use KYB shocks with this kit but it is what is needed to replace the SLS system with regular gas shocks.

You can also get a kit from Broken Kitty:

http://www.brokenkitty.com/parts/xj4...tm#Shockchange

This kit includes shocks and costs a little under $200, however you may need some additional bushings and "foams", depending how badly yours are worn. This is the kit I have opted for. I also opted for all the extra bushings, foams and a pump bypass hose so the total was almost $300. But John (the owner) told me I can return the unused bushings/foams for a refund. I expect it to arrive in a day or so. I will post as to how the installation goes and the results.

Hope this helps.

 

I was just out in my cold, cold garage checking out the rear suspension on my car. I thought my car had the SLS installed, but now I don't think so. Yesterday, I was under the car trying to isolate the source of a vibration. I found that the steel tubing that is supposed to go to the right rear suspension was disconnected. That led me to believe that my car has been converted over to conventional shocks. The right rear shock is leaking fluid all over the garage floor and upon inspection, I found that there is a rubber boot on the shock that has ruptured. This doesn't appear to be like any shocks that I have dealt with in the past, but so be it. How do I determine what brand of shocks I should replace these with since they weren't installed on the car originally?

 

As Translator showed that plug should be there if you have converted shocks. If they left the old line then it may be leaking fluid out of the old tube that runs to the back of the car and into the SLS struts. Also right under the pass side rear tire well there is a module that would sense the ride height with an electrical sensor. This should be unpluged and filled with silicone.

I installed KYB shocks and struts on my car and they are nice. I have heard they run on the stiff side and they do feel stiffer than most so I will buy that. Obviously they loosen up a bit with time. I like them, I feel like I can stop better and have a little more fun with them. They are a perfect fit and easy install if you have a spring compressor.

 

My 1990 XJ6 has been converted by a previous owner to conventional shocks on the rear and is now in need of new ones. I saw somewhere in this thread that KYB KG9309 shocks are a good replacement and so I ordered some from Advance Auto. My question is, how do you replace the rear shocks? Is it necessary to compress the spring? And how do you access the top attachment?

 

I would reccomend a spring compressor, technically the spring should be under tension to be able to float the vehicle, the shock keeps the rebound under control.
as per removal of the top.
from the vehicle you should have 3 or 4 nuts to remove the top mount from the frame.
to diassemble from the strut top, first compress the spring and use an impact gun to remove the center nut.
remove assembly noting the way each part fits the assembly (what goes before what). remove the spring. keep it in the compressor away from work area (just in case it comes off the tool you dont want it flying off to hurt someone).
if the shock comes as a unit you may want to diassemble the tube where the old unit sits, this is done by turning the nut at the top of the tube.
there will be be some fluid at the bottom of the shock carrier do not empty as this cools the shock for longer life span of it.
if it comes as an assemly in the tube carrier simply reverse the spring inatallation.
if it comes as a coilover assembly 90% of your job is already done simply remove old and install new.
hope it helps.
becarefull working on suspension parts, quite often they bind by desing so it can be a pain in the butt to work with out assistance.
good luck.

 

Carlos is right,
I found it very easy to put the rear on jackstands and remove the strut as a whole piece. Unlike the front you can take the strut and pring etc out as a whole unit before you start work.

I am not sure where Carlos needed an impact wrench, but what I did once I had the strut out of the car is I loosened the top nut that holds the strut to the mount untill it started to run out of threads. This let me release as much tension as possible befoe compressing the springs and going the rest of the way.

Once I relaced the strut, I put it back together and installed as a unit. If you don't have a spring compressor Pepboys/autozone will probably loan or rent you one.

Also to note, if your stut(s) have been flown for some time it may be necissary to install new spring(s) to restore the correct ride height.

 

Good input. Thanks to all who responded. Here in Tulsa, we are digging out of a record snowfall and, since the city doesn't plow the residential streets, it may be a while before I can get to the auto parts store to pick up my shocks. We have 10 inches in the cul de sac and since the Jaguar rides rather low, I hesitate to get out to the main streets for fear of tearing up my car. Eventually, I'll need to get out, but hopefully the snow will have melted down a little. I'll update eveyone on my progress as the situation improves.