XJ40 ( XJ81 ) 1986 - 1994

MY94 split coolant hose under intake, suggestions on how to change it?

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Old 07-19-2020, 02:50 PM
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Default MY94 split coolant hose under intake, suggestions on how to change it?

My daily driver 1994 XJ6 has a badly split coolant hose. Unfortunately it is the one under the intake manifold that leads from the back of the water pump and extends back into the port on the side of the block.
Anyone her have any suggestions on the easiest way to change this? I know it is sometimes referred to as the jesus hose because it's such a bitch to change.
 
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Old 07-19-2020, 03:12 PM
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I have decided to try removing the air pump to see how much room that gives to access the hose.
 
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Old 07-19-2020, 03:19 PM
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The MF hose or B@$ARD hose (common names for the water rail hose) is accessed from the front and the clamps (if properly placed to begin with) can be accessed through the intake runners with long 1/4" drive extension and 'wobble' sockets.

There is a smaller curved hose that I remove and replace because it is in the way.

I usually slice the hose with a razor knife and remove it then apply some silicon grease to the connections to help slide the new one in place.

Lots of write-ups in the forum XJ40 AND X300 (same hose).

bob
 
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Old 07-19-2020, 05:40 PM
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I got the split hose off. I was able to reach it after removing the air pump and three or four hoses that were blocking access from reaching the back hose clamp and rear connection point.

three to four inch split in the side of the hose. The other separation on the end is where I cut it to get it off.


Unfortunately I had to pack all my stuff away because it looks we are in for a serious rain storm here.
I'm working on this in the driveway at my house rather than over at my shop where I wouldn't have to worry about rain.
 

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Old 07-20-2020, 01:46 PM
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Got the cooling system all back together on my 1994 XJ6. I had the actual URO replacement hose in stock from rockauto (part # EAC3454) but this hose is very small diameter on each end compared to the diameter of the outlet on the back of the water pump and the water rail inlet that bolts to the block. This makes it very difficult to squeeze this hose in place. Instead of using this hose I decided to go to an O'Reilly's auto parts store and look around for a larger diameter hose that would have a similar set of bends in the hose. I found two different Gates hoses that would work. They are Gates part number 23067 (2004 Dodge Dakota lower hose) or Gates part number 23308 (1996 - 2003 Ford E350 w/7.3L V8 DIESEL Turbocharged engine upper hose and other Ford truck applications). These hoses both have to be cut down to the appropriate length for use on the AJ6 motor but by making this substitution it is WAY WAY easier to get the replacement hose into place. These same hoses can be obtained from rockauto to get a slightly better price but you also have to pay shipping.
 

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Old 07-21-2020, 10:24 PM
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Steve,

Good job and thank you for the tip on the alternate hoses!

For the record, I've tried the alternate methods, but I really think it's easier to just remove the air intake and throttle body and disconnect the intake manifold and tie it back. Once you do, you can access all the common oil leak points, clean the TB and TPS, clean the gunk out of the air intake and crankcase breather system, etc. Just my two cents.

Cheers,

Don
 
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Old 07-21-2020, 11:02 PM
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For me it was easier to remove the air pump. Only two bolts and then disconnect a few hoses. Then I had plenty of room to work on the coolant rail hose at that point.
Seemed like a LOT less work than disconnecting the whole intake manifold.
 
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Old 07-23-2020, 04:48 PM
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Originally Posted by JensenHealey
Seemed like a LOT less work than disconnecting the whole intake manifold.
But then you’ll miss the, “and while you’re there you can...”
 
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Old 07-28-2020, 06:41 PM
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Default Alternate head to heater valve hose

It turns out I had a second coolant hose leak at the same time so I ended up having to also replace the hose that goes from the heater valve that screws into the back corner of the cylinder head to the heater core inlet on the firewall. This hose is sort of J shaped so again I went to O'Reillys and ended up with a compatible Gates hose again. The Gates hose part number for this is 19773. Two other hose part numbers that looked like they would also work are 18933 and 19297. Again all Gates hose part numbers.
 
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Old 08-01-2020, 01:56 PM
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I had proactively replaced just about all the hoses on my '92 when I purchased it, all were original. I knew the coolant rail hose would be the worst and separated the intake to get to it.

I thought I ordered every single hose I needed, but forgot a heater core hose. I left it out, it looked great... Until it burst on the highway, just two minutes away on the way home from work one night some weeks later. Glad it happened then, I was able to nurse the car in with no overheating. As soon as the coolant light came on, and I saw steam in the cowl area, I knew exactly which hose it was...

It only takes one!
 
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Old 08-01-2020, 08:59 PM
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Originally Posted by JensenHealey
Seemed like a LOT less work than disconnecting the whole intake manifold.
Mine had a leak at the crossover pipe under the manifold so when I went looking I had to take the manifold off. Honestly it looks worse than it is. I personably spent more time looking up all the hoses than getting the manifold off and I replaced everyone hen I did them.
 
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Old 08-04-2020, 04:32 PM
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There is a kit available which contains all the hoses. I think it's Xks, now Moss motors.
 
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Old 08-04-2020, 11:59 PM
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Originally Posted by jerry_hoback
There is a kit available which contains all the hoses. I think it's Xks, now Moss motors.
But these hoses are available at local auto parts stores.
 
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