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Hello all,
I am in the process of replacing the output flange bearings on my (new to me) 1992 XJ40.
Without doing any research, I thought that in order to remove the output flange, I had to remove the half shaft, and the hub carrier.
As faith would have it, the hub is frozen solid to the carrier. I soaked it with PB blaster for 2 days, and even with a 3 jaw hub puller, it refuses to budge.
On my 1990, they just slid out.
After failing, I decided to do a search on the forum, and read a post which stated that I did not have to remove the hub carrier and half shaft to get at the output flange.
So, back out I went, and none of the sockets I had would fit on to the nuts holding the half shaft to the flange.
I ended up grinding the wall of one of my 6 point 11/16 sockets making it thinner so it would fit in the very limited space between the u-joint and the nut. Success.
I then used a 12 inch 1/2 in drive extension and a 17mm socket and my air gun to remove the 5 bolts holding the flange to the differential.
Only the passenger side was sloppy, but I am going to do both sides. Awaiting two JLM 6207 kits from Welshent. The kit comes with the bearing, seal, O-ring and locking collar.
On removal, I found 3 shims on the passenger side. I don't know how many shims there are on the driver side as yet. I had to stop work due to a thunderstorm in my area.
I have already dismantled the passenger side flange as seen in the image. I weakened the locking collar by cutting the collar almost all the way through with my die grinder.
I did not cut all the way through. I stopped approximately 1/16" and used a chisel to crack the ring. The bearing came out easily.
I am going to try the installation by freezing the shaft overnight and heating up the retaining collar to see if I can do it at home. If that fails, I will take it to a shop to get the retaining collar pressed in.
On another note, the seals were leaking so there was very little oil in the differential. I will try cleaning it up as best as I can to inspect and hope that the pinion seal was not leaking also.
Don't heat the lock collar to 'cherry red hot'. I tried it and it fell on but would not shrink back to TIGHT.
It just fell off when it cooled.
A mildly hot collar and some 'persuasion' will probably work if you don't have a shop press.
A forum member posted that it should be heated to about 150 degrees. I have an industrial oven that I use for curing powder coating on small stuff. I can set the oven temperature to 150 degrees and monitor the temp of the collar. I will put the shafts in my freezer overnight.
Another idea is to put it in boiling water until it gets up to the 150 degree temp.
You're doing great! You've done all the hard work now. A local automotive machine shop would probably charge you very little to press the new collars onto the stub axles. Heating heat-hardened metal parts is always risky because it is very easy to affect the temper and weaken the steel.
For the benefit of others who will read your thread, this is one of those jobs where I've learned that it is wise to disassemble and reassemble the parts from one side at a time, since it is easy to get the mounting flange installed backward. If one discovers one has done this after the new collar is pressed on, it will ruin one's day.
You really don't have to do a job like this without help. You can download a mostly-complete U.K. edition of the Haynes manual here:
And here are some photo albums. The large images are still being transferred to new servers at Jag-Lovers but the thumbnails and descriptions are still visible:
I would not worry about temps up to 400 or 500 degrees or even higher. I would not try to get it to GLOW.
I got one to 'glowing-hot' and it did not work.
I had the Jaguar parts dept in the same building so I did not worry about a replacement. (just the cost of the wasted collar)
I just thought it might work to get it REALLY hot so it would 'drop-on' and not have to set up the shop press. I had done this before with a Toyota rear axle lock collar back in the 1980s.
It will not 'shrink' back to size enough to provide a proper grip.
@DON B and motorcarman : Yep. I learnt the hard way about doing things one side at a time back in the 60s when I had my first car. I do have the workshop manuals for the XJ40, but I just decided to go for it without reading or researching anything. It looked pretty much straightforward. What I did not know was that there was enough movement of the half shaft from the output flange that did not require me trying to disassemble the hub carrier to do the job. Now I know.
Like I stated, I will make the attempt to try and do it at home. If I fail, I will definitely take it to a shop with a press.
I am still going to try and separate the hub from the carrier today. If I fail, I will just disconnect the E-brake cable and take the whole assembly to the shop and have them press the hub out.
I have the hub bearing kits and new nuts if needed.
I noticed minor slop on the U-joints, so I am thinking that since I am this far into the disassembly, I might as well replace them.
The seller also gave me 4 new rear shocks so I will replace those as well.
Am I missing something? Item #5 in the graphic above was only found on the driver side(left) of my car. Is one missing for the passenger side?
Also, I made a big boo-boo with my bearing retainer.
As shown in the photo one side is thicker than the other. I had them marked L & R with white paint and my helper painted them.
Now I don't know which side is which. The one on the right is thicker than the one on the left. Can anyone help?
No worries guys.
I figured it out. Sometime in the past, someone had worked on the left rear of the vehicle and when I removed it, there was silicone in the groove where the o-ring goes.
Since my helper was not as meticulous as I am in cleaning, he left some of the old silicone in the groove,so I know that it came out from the left side of the car.
For those who wish to know, the thicker bearing retainer goes on the right rear and the thinner one goes on the left rear.
According to the parts catalog, that Speed Sensor Rotor is only used on the Left Side
Regarding the difference in your output shaft mounting flanges, I don't recall ever noticing that, but as I mentioned before, I only worked on one side at a time to help me keep the parts straight.
Is there any difference in the lengths of your output shafts?
EDIT: Sorry, started this post a couple of hours ago but just now posted it, then saw your more recent post.
07-06-2019, 04:54 PM
Output flange bearing replacement
