I don't think you'd need the ball end Allens for this. There is a hole in the hub which allows straight access to those bolts.....

 

Thanks Jerry, picked up an 8mm at the flea market this Sunday for 25¢, so well pleased.

As you said, there's a hole in the hub so access in no problem ..however, once I took another look at the hub assembly (and my intention to remove the whole shebang) I really couldn't see any point in undoing the allens because the back plate can't come off without separating the hub from the carrier ..

So I said forget it and proceeded to take off the hub, carrier and shaft as a unit.

I'd checked the hub etc for play while the wheel was still on and it passed spec with flying colours.

Removing the u-joint bolts from the diff was a bit of a struggle as they can only be removed in one position and unless the hub/arm is raised up there's no clearance to locate the socket on to the nut.

It would have helped of course if I'd read the archive because this is ONE place where the metric rule fails - those nuts may be close to 17mm but of course they are actually 11/16 ...took several attempts upside down on my back trying to get that 17mm socket on before I finally figured that out!



Driver's side hub and driveshaft assembly removed as a unit


Cheers

Larry

 

Of course, and again with the rebuilding of The Moneyfunnel I tried to swap a hub without the back plate. Can't be done. Not so its worth it anyway... Live and learn eh?

 

After removing the passenger side rear hub yesterday, I had a go at taking off the rubber Jurid "cush-drive" coupling that joins the rear drive shaft to the diff (without much luck!)

So last night I reviewed a bunch of material (which consisted mainly of Don's pics on diff removal)

Today, armed with a fresh understanding (and my trusty pry-bars), I managed to pry the drive shaft forward enough to release the Jurid.

I recalled Don's issues after fitting an aftermarket Jurid so I was surprised to see the parts car's coupling not marked GKN like on Don's 93, but with the markings shown below ...



Jurid OEM coupling from a late 94MY XJ40


When I removed the drive shaft centre bearing bracket, I could remove the rear drive shaft - again - Don's 93MY had a very handy alignment "fat" spline to make reassembly a breeze, not so on the 94, all the splines on the shaft were identical ...

After getting the shaft and Jurid off, the only thing remaining "back there" was the rear sub frame/diff assembly - of course, the exhaust was still in place too, but I couldn't separate the sections to start removing it.

I gave up on trying to deal with the exhaust in situ so decided to leave it connected to the rear sub frame and drop the whole shebang together.

Placing a floor jack mounted with 2x8's under what I assumed to be (incorrectly BTW!) the centre of gravity of the assembly, I took the weight off the dogbones and removed the bolts together with the forward cone bushing bolts. Now only the jack supported the rear subframe, diff and exhaust system.

I guess I didn't take into consideration the weight of the front part of the exhaust because when I released the jack (slowly) the forward end of the load came down first ...no big deal though, it only had one place to go!

Now that it was down I was able to wiggle the entire exhaust out of the remaining two brackets on the sub frame.
Once it was out from under the car I was able to separate the sections without too much trouble, much to my surprise and relief!

So now I have a good spare exhaust system!



94MY Jaguar XJ40 stainless steel exhaust system - I cleaned up one muffler for the pic!

So the subframe and diff are still under the car. I put a couple of 2x4's under it for the next few days as we're expecting rain; I'll go back out early next week and take it apart and get the pieces moved into storage.



Rear end removed from the parts car


all the best

Larry

 

Hi Larry,

Great work!

SGF is a major manufacturer of flexible couplings and was probably one of Jaguar's OEMs. What is very interesting about that part is that it is marked Made in West Germany. Since East and West Germany were reunified in 1990, one would assume that coupling was manufactured no later than that year, but perhaps it took a while for molds to be revised.

That's interesting about your driveshaft splines. Did the main tubes of the two sections have alignment marks?

Cheers,

Don

 

Don, I was totally expecting to see the fat spline and use that to take care of the match-up - however, as I had no intention of reassembling, didn't bother to check for alignment marks ...

I'll have a look/take a snap or two next time I'm out there!

ps - the Jurid looked original to me, I don't think any of the underbody components had seen much in the way of replacement/maintenance on this car!

all the best

Larry

 

Today I started to disassemble the rear end, got it to this stage:



Diff released, half shafts and wishbones off.



Late XJ40 model cast wishbone, x300 style.

all was proceeding AOK but ran into a bit of a problem ....couldn't see how the diff separated from the frame ....however, now that I'm back home (and rethinking) is it possible I don't have to remove that huge pinion flange nut to separate the diff from the carrier??



Can the front plate of the frame wiggle around these three lugs or does the arrowed nut have to be removed (what size that nut anyway??!!)

I guess it must wiggle out when all the bolts are released, eh?

Tomorrow we will find out!!

Larry

 

Hi Larry,

Yes, it will wiggle apart with the pinion flange in situ:




The pinion nut on our '93 is 36mm and I used an axle socket because the nut is torqued to around 500 ft. lbs. to compress the crush sleeve / collapsible spacer. But once you get the nut loose enough to relieve that tension it shouldn't be difficult to turn off.

Cheers,

Don

 

Hey Thanks Don, great pic btw!

Not going to bother releasing the pinion nut, diff seems fine as-is.


Managed to get the cylinder head off today too, left it in the car till my bro-in-law arrives on Thursday for helping hand, anyway moved it off to one side so I could have a look at the gasket, pistons and block surface etc.

Have to say all was looking mighty sweet.

pics:


head ready to be lifted out of car; cam lobes showing no wear at all




gasket found to be in good condition




Block galleries and surface in excellent condition, zero corrosion




surface detail




Some carbon on piston, not excessive




94MY cam cover, 13 hold downs and oil filler on cover


Cheers

Larry

 

Managed to get quite a bit done since last week -

Removed, transported and stored the head, wheels and all the diff/rear suspension parts. Started on the front end.

Disassembled the steering rack, front springs, shocks, wishbones, ball joints, sway bar etc ..basically everything up front in the undercarriage.

The rack was in excellent shape, as were the front wheel bearings (checked pre teardown) - the bushes are in pretty good condition as well but the ball joints, not so much - torn boots so I threw them out.

Here's a few more pics of the bits and what's left ..not a whole lot!

















cheers

Larry

 

How much for the steering rack? Thanks.

 

Keeping this for a while till I check out if my own is better or worse ...plus it's a ZF rack, I think your model uses an Adwest?

Thanks

Larry

 

I really don't know what brand and if it makes any difference. I would buy yours just as a back up for mine since I have had problems with mine leaking and if it fails I could just bolt this one in. Thanks!

 

Bit of a surprise today, went by the parts car to have a look for a clip and a bit of trim and right next to the blue one was this one!



1988 sovereign

It's an early one with a vin in the 54000 range - I'm not sure just yet but I think my pal picked it up on my behalf (!) - I just called him and told him it was an 88 - his reply - "I don't know ..it had a jaguar on the hood so I grabbed it"

Apparently it has a passenger side rear axle/bearing issue and when the garage customer heard the estimate they abandoned the car at the garage.

That was about a year or so ago. This week I guess the garage got fed up of looking at it in their lot so they called my pal to tow it to the crusher ..I guess the math between the crusher price and the tow had a balance of $50 so he flipped them the $50 and hey presto I might have an '88 too ...

On a quick glance, there's quite a few differences to my '94 under the hood, but on the exterior I noticed the headlights were a bit different too.

Both cars have "styled" [square] lamps, but on the '88, the reflectors are euro style single element and are less wide than the 94 double reflector type. There's a 1" chrome spacer either side of the grille to make up the width difference, just like the European headlights.

This was a new one on me - I hadn't seen this mentioned anywhere before always assuming that all the N. American lamps were dual reflector.

The interior looks to be in almost better condition than my '94, all the woodwork is nice and not very faded at all, plus I was surprised to see the boxwood stringing and tables fitted to the seat backs - I thought that was only VDP spec, but I guess in the early cars the Sovereigns had it too?

Seats didn't look worn - I'll be interested to get a battery hooked up and find out what the mileage is too. Aparently this was a running car before the axle/bearing issue ...

details: manuf. date april 88, paint CEV (crimson), trim AEM (magnolia)

really like the black dash and door top trims ...

More fun to come I guess!!

Larry

 

do you have any of the hub caps with the Jaguar head on them that goes in the center of the wheel? I just need one.

 

I forgot.... I also need the little clip that hold the drivers sun visor in place. Do you have one? Thanks!

 

Can you post a picture of yours? There are many different patterns, I might have one to match ..Visor clip I have left has a repair but might be ok ..all the good ones are spoken for sorry - BTW you have to be prepared to pay high shipping rates for anything coming from Canada

Nothing I can do about that, just the way it is -

ps what is the vin# of your car?

Larry

 

Another way to look at the parts car






cheers

Larry

 

Removed the transmission mount yesterday, not a pretty sight!!



tranny mount with tell-tale crumble signs ...




full-on foam buffer crumble, zero buffer remaining

Not surprising, this is the original fitment ...but now I'm wondering about my VDP's buffer condition so just ordered a new one!

The rear shock upper isolators weren't quite so bad, but this foam material doesn't last too long. It's a bit more long lived than the material used for the "top-hat" bush in the rear shocks but still, after 20-odd years, it's toast. (or should I say carrot-cake!)

If your rad mounts have crumbled there's a pretty good chance your trans mount is in a similar condition to this one.

When I had a look at the rear upper shock mount plates on the parts car, the top hat bush had crumbled so the spacer sleeve contacted the plate and wore it away, metal on metal.

Together with the lack of a decent buffer in this trans mount, I'd say the owner of this XJ40 had a very bumpy ride indeed!

... and at a mere 69,000 miles too ....

cheers

Larry