Replacing the oil pressure sending unit on 1994 XJ6
#1
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Hello,
I have a 1994 XJ6. It has a real bad oil leak and has been parked since forever because of this. I suspected that the oil pressure sending unit is leaking and I think that it is. It seems impossible to reach without taking the intake manifold off so I took it off today and I can see the oil pressure sending unit but I could not take it off. I put a vice grip on it because I am going to replace it anyway since it is bad and showing zero oil pressure, but it is spinning and the nut isn't. Any idea on how to take it off?
I have the old type which I was reading online that they known to fail quickly. I would appreciate any links to buy one of the new type that doesn't break as often.
Thanks,
I have a 1994 XJ6. It has a real bad oil leak and has been parked since forever because of this. I suspected that the oil pressure sending unit is leaking and I think that it is. It seems impossible to reach without taking the intake manifold off so I took it off today and I can see the oil pressure sending unit but I could not take it off. I put a vice grip on it because I am going to replace it anyway since it is bad and showing zero oil pressure, but it is spinning and the nut isn't. Any idea on how to take it off?
I have the old type which I was reading online that they known to fail quickly. I would appreciate any links to buy one of the new type that doesn't break as often.
Thanks,
#2
#3
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What size is the crows foot wrench on your special tool, Bob?
If I recall correctly, the hex on the sendor is inch fractional (SAE/Imperial) and not metric. With the intake manifold pulled back you should be able to get on it with an open-end wrench.
I have done it with a standard crows foot wrench and socket extension with the manifold in situations, but it's a lot easier with the manifold pulled back.
The later switch-type sendor should be available from any of our forum sponsors like SNG Barratt, Coventry West, Jagbits, or Welsh Enterprises, or vendors loke Rock Auto, Parts Geek, FCP Euro, etc.
Cheers,
Don
If I recall correctly, the hex on the sendor is inch fractional (SAE/Imperial) and not metric. With the intake manifold pulled back you should be able to get on it with an open-end wrench.
I have done it with a standard crows foot wrench and socket extension with the manifold in situations, but it's a lot easier with the manifold pulled back.
The later switch-type sendor should be available from any of our forum sponsors like SNG Barratt, Coventry West, Jagbits, or Welsh Enterprises, or vendors loke Rock Auto, Parts Geek, FCP Euro, etc.
Cheers,
Don
Last edited by Don B; 07-04-2020 at 03:51 PM.
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93SB (07-08-2020)
#4
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Thanks guys. I ended up breaking the casing on the sending unit to be able to spin it with a wrench. I was not sure if it worked at all because it used to show low oil pressure, but it has been showing zero for a while. It was leaking a little bit, but the major leak was not from the oil pressure sensor. I have discovered a hole in the oil pan on the corner above the rack and pinion on the driver side. I took the rack and pinion out, flushed the engine twice to get rid of all the oil, and I am going to try to repair the hole using a repair kit or JB Weld. If that didn't fix the problem, I think it's time to forget about this car because I have spend so much time on it and the last thing I want to do is pull the engine out to change the oil pan.
I am going to order this one:
https://www.rockauto.com/en/catalog/...+/+switch,4588
ÜRO PARTS JLM20791 {#DBC5513, LMD5640AB, URO006193} Info
This oil pressure switch is a factory update of the original one that has a high failure rate; This acts as an on/off switch with an in-line resistor that transmits a reduced signal to the gauge
$25.79
Is this the right one? Cheaper than the original design and it looks like it can be easily installed with a socket.
I am going to order this one:
https://www.rockauto.com/en/catalog/...+/+switch,4588
ÜRO PARTS JLM20791 {#DBC5513, LMD5640AB, URO006193} Info
This oil pressure switch is a factory update of the original one that has a high failure rate; This acts as an on/off switch with an in-line resistor that transmits a reduced signal to the gauge
$25.79
Is this the right one? Cheaper than the original design and it looks like it can be easily installed with a socket.
#5
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The sender is 7/16" BSF and the metric AF is 18.03mm. (yes Jaguar used British Standard in some applications into the 1990s)
I bent a Snap-On Blue-Point 18mm AF combination spanner (heated to red-hot) and welded a socket (and torsional support after the wrench bent under load) to the modified wrench.
The wrench has been in my toolbox for over 35 years and I have not used it in many years.
It came in handy at many shops that I worked in. (even the Jaguar Dealer)
I bent a Snap-On Blue-Point 18mm AF combination spanner (heated to red-hot) and welded a socket (and torsional support after the wrench bent under load) to the modified wrench.
The wrench has been in my toolbox for over 35 years and I have not used it in many years.
It came in handy at many shops that I worked in. (even the Jaguar Dealer)
#6
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Thanks guys. I ended up breaking the casing on the sending unit to be able to spin it with a wrench. I was not sure if it worked at all because it used to show low oil pressure, but it has been showing zero for a while. It was leaking a little bit, but the major leak was not from the oil pressure sensor. I have discovered a hole in the oil pan on the corner above the rack and pinion on the driver side. I took the rack and pinion out, flushed the engine twice to get rid of all the oil, and I am going to try to repair the hole using a repair kit or JB Weld. If that didn't fix the problem, I think it's time to forget about this car because I have spend so much time on it and the last thing I want to do is pull the engine out to change the oil pan.
Can you take a photo of this hole and post it here?
#7
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#8
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It is such a tight spot and I can really only feel the hole, not seeing it that good. I am so sorry, I wish I could take pictures. It has been repaired, I just need to do more flushes and testing to see if the repair is good before I put everything back together.
The previous owner was my neighbor. He passed away. He had the engine rebuilt at one point and he told me that it started to leak after that rebuild. He asked to look at it and I did. At that time, it had so much oil, dirt, and mud underneath but as soon as I saw the cross member covering most of the pan, I told him it's super difficult to repair the leak without taking the engine out. I thought it was leaking from the oil pan gasket, but that's obviously not the case. Could it be that they cracked the pan when they dropped the engine in the car after they rebuilt it? I think so because no signs of damage anywhere else in that area like on the rack and pinion, the cross member, the lines, etc. Everything is shiny and looks brand new after I cleaned it good to find the leak and repair it. It is not possible for a rock or anything to cause this crack and cause no damage to anything else whatsoever.
Last edited by Sam1980; 07-09-2020 at 12:44 PM.
#9
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#11
#12
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Tested the repair today. It's fixed. No more leaks. Oil pan is fixed and the new oil pressure sending unit sealed the other leak. Now I have to figure out the vacuum lines towards the front of the engine after I installed the intake back on the car. I have been looking for a diagram or good pictures from different angles. You guys got any?
Cheers!
Cheers!
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Don B (07-09-2020)
#13
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I'm not sure. That's what he said and I don't see scrapping damage underneath. These cars are just difficult to work on. I would never rebuild an engine on these if it was me.
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