Hi Carmelo,

The ignition coil is a known failure point. Your grounded distributor rotor button may have caused the coil to run hot, possibly accelerating its failure.

What is curious to me is that in your video I do not see the ignition amplifier module, Part 4 in this diagram:




Does your car have this module, normally mounted under or next to the ignition coil?

Cheers,

Don

 

Hey Don !
Yes I have the amplifier, but the coil have been moved upper by the previous owner's mechanic when the coil was changed, to avoid overheating. The coil has only 3000 Km ...
Can I test the coil to know if it's still good ?

 

The fact that you have spark suggests the coil and amplifier are still working, at least marginally. It's possible the spark is weak, though, if the coil is shorting internally, which that clicking sound could indicate.

 

Yes I noticed the clicking Don...at the same time as the clicking I can see some movement in the small amount of liquid on top of the lead going to the top of the coil.

 

Exactly !

I have the clicking noise and the "bubbles" on the liquid are bouncing at the same rythm.
The liquid is LHM (green liquid used for rear suspenspion) leaking from unsued pump and pipe (hydraulic suspensions have been removed). I have ordered metal plate pu instead of hydraulic pump : there will be no leak next week.

I have "news" :
I'm now sure it is ignition related problem : I can reproduce in 2nd gear, 3rd or 4th : when the car is at operation temperature, and RPM above 2500 and stabilized speed : RPM needle is bouncing ...

 

Hey there

I may have found the initial problem with my ignition timing.
The crankshaft pulley is moving around the crankshaft ... All parts of the pulley are tighted together, so it's not the harmonic bumper.
I think it is the crankchaft key which is broken, allowing the pulley to turn, and the ignition point is not aligned anymore :

 

Hi Carmelo,

That is definitely a problem! How did you have any spark at all with the crank pulley not turning to provide a CPS signal? Is it possible the Woodruff key has broken just recently?

Cheers,

Don

 

Yes it is
The whole pulley is loose, but can not do an entire revolution. It can turn about 1/16 of an entire revolution : you can see in the video the maximum movement of the pulley while crankshaft is motionless.

So when the crankshaft is turning the pulley turns, and the CPS can provide info. But as the pulley is loose, the CPS cannot always provide a good information, I think this can explain my jerks at stabilized speed : what do you think ?
I have to take out the pulley to check if the key is shot.

 

I hope you find the Woodruff key has sheared but is catching on itself and not that the central sleeve of the harmonic damper has broken.

 

I'm waiting to receive the 1-5/16'' socket (here in France we have tools in mm not inches !) to remove the pulley ... I'm scary as hell :'(

 

So I received new woodruff key and 1-5/16’’ socket, and now the car is running great

Very lucky it did not damaged the cranckshaft or pulley !

 

Congratulations, Carmelo!

Great detective work!!!

Cheers,

Don