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Another question, to change the gasket at both side of the rack, it seem I have to take out the metal collar around the gasket, and to fit it back after.
Not to difficult ? No risk to damage it ?
I just see that you had this collar on your tube too, with no damage.
I try to see if the hellish plastic collar is still in the rack, but can't really see it...
When I look inside, no plastic tube, but I see a protrusion which could be the cause of the deformation of the metal seal. It must be the end of the allen screw that we see on the outside. I think it was the end of this screw that kept the tube from coming out by retaining the metal gasket. So by forcing the exit of the tube, it probably caused the deformation of the gasket. Difficult situation, how to change this seal? And how to replace the tube? You must undoubtedly unscrew this allen screw but it seems sealed in the metal on the outside ...
Leave the plastic collar inside, no need to remove it just to put it back later anyway, as for metal one i would try to give it the correct form with tools, maybe some small jewelry chisel and hammer etc, this thing presses plastic collar into its place and i don't think it need to be perfect to do its job and it worked fine as is till now,
I don't really remember if i removed end rack collar or not, but if you can't do without removal then there it goes, not much to damage if you do it carefully
also make special care while reinstalling the gaskets, some have very small lip which should go toward inside rack in order to hold pressure
I wonder if the metal collar is used to push the plastic collar to the bottom or if it is used to prevent the tube from coming out of its location by locking on the screw that protrudes inside. When you took out the tube, did you remove the allen screw that holds the entire body of the distributor?
the purpose of this allen screw eludes my memory totally, it looks like holding whole thing together, maybe the big tube is screwed into housing and allen is locking the assembly?
this way or another i don't think i touched it at all
I am agree with you, frighten to tuch this Allen screw, But I am quite sure that the end of the Allen is in the way of the metal collar (we see it inside the rack). And if there is the plastic part inside (difficult to see), it seem to be retained by the screw. As we say in France, the night brings advice, I will see tomorrow. Tanks any way for your advices.
as for suspicious lack of plastic sealing ring and assuming it is not inside nor ever was, i would bet that if rack has been functioning ok without it then it should keep ok after reassembly now.
Finally I did not resist, I tried to gently unscrew the allen screw, it went without effort. It was it who protruded inside, so now I will be able to straighten the metal ring and especially put it back in place with the tube before putting the allen screw back.
Regarding the body of the rack, I believe it is screwed into the distributor, the allen screw is only there to prevent unscrewing, and also to retain the inner tube. :-)
Though I very seriously considered rebuilding the steering rack in my '90 Majestic, I installed a reman. I just don't have the time right now and the rack in my car had to be replaced.
An easy job really, nine screws and connections a three hour or so job, made significantly easy with an impact wrench.
Actually rebuilding rack yourself is quite rewarding adventure if you have a time and patience to do that, it also costs spare change compared to buying reman unit.
Honestly i enjoyed rebuilding rack, ps pump alternator etc much more then fighting annoying door handles or unending and omnipresent oil leaks
BerLehm, if you need track rod ends i've got pair in mint condition, will cost you the postage.
send me pm if you are interested
I also find it interesting, a great challenge to accomplish, but you really have to take all your time at each step, and not hesitate to take a break for several days while waiting for answers, never do it urgently.
Thanks xjack, but too late, I just ordered all the set to rebuilt the front suspension, including new rod end :-)
Hello guys !
I'm in the process of rebuilding my steering rack. It is ADWEST branded.
The steering rack is opened on the table, it has already been rebuilt in the past, but I think there is mix of green oil (my car had SLS) and red oil : it killed the rings !
I have a question, about the "exit tube oring" (I don't know how to call them in english) :
I had "theses" (totally killed and hard, and you can see the light red color of Dexron I think) :
My question :
Where do I put theses two rings in place ?
Hello,
You are French like me, so I will discuss in both French and English, for the forum.
I did rebuilt an ADWEST too, not easy job.
On the next picture you'll see first the "old" seals in two parts, one with a square section the other with road section. I replace this two with one new seal, the one you show.
I has to be replace in two place, one on the tube, the other on the support.
J'ai refait aussi une ADWEST cet été, pas facile, le plus dur c'est les joint du distributeur.
Sur les photos ci-joint tu verra les anciens joint qui chez moi étaient en 2 parties, puis les nouveaux en une partie.
Ton joint est étrange car il ne devrait pas sortir là, il est tenu par la cage métallique (sur mes photos), ou alors tu avait une autre joint en plus..
For my rack, without SLS, It is show "mineral oil" on the reservoir, so I put some LHM (Citroën green liquid).
Sur ma crémaillère il est inscrit huile minérale, c'est l'équivalent du LHM de Citroën, c'est ce que j'utilise et c'est très bien, pas corrosif ni hydrophobe (n'absorbe pas d'humidité).
Hello @BerLehm ! Thanks for your answer (and the french part )
Hmm, it is weird : in the rebuild kit, I have :
- the 2 part rings (like the old)
- and the black ring (the one you put behind the metallic cage)
As you can see : https://www.jagpieces.com/kit-comple...st-c2x33077058