Okay people I have just aquired a vehicle, okay 2. the first job I have to address is the timberworl inside. I have managed to get some timber veneer .6mm thick. My question what glue do you use and how does it handle the heat I am in Rockhampton 4701 and it gets really hot inside cars here very quickly. Just about all of the veneer inside are cracked an separating from the base, and as you can see here it has completely left the metal parts in the consul.

 

Hi Clive,

You will find that some of the wood trim pieces, such as those in the doors and dash panel or fascia, have a plywood substrate. For those, a good wood glue such as Titebond II works well.

Other trim pieces, such as the "Ski Slope" gear shift lever surround and ash tray cover, have metal substrates. For those, I use a good quality contact cement, such as DAP Weldwood. Contact cement is applied in a thin coat on both the veneer and substrate, allowed to dry, then the two pieces are aligned and the veneer carefully rolled on to the substrate with a brayer or J-roller. You must position the pieces carefully before allowing any part of them to touch, because the contact cement bonds immediately on contact. The advantage of contact cement is that it remains somewhat flexible and allows for the different rates of thermal expansion and contraction between the wood veneer and metal substrate.

Somewhere in my photo albums at the link in my signature there are some photos of work to re-veneer the trim in one of my old XJ40s.

Cheers,

Don

 

As you can see here these 2 vents have a metal backing just as the ski slope and ashtray, the metal parts are more of a concern to me because bonding the veneer to timber is not much of an issue for now, I am going to concentrate on the metal component first.

 

Looks like mine, tricky spot

 

I have removed the back window, I wasn't sure how bad the rust in there was, (pleasantly surprised.) then removed the trim around the rear quarter glass.

 

Then it was time to removed the quarterglass and get it ready to have the rust removed and then have it all ready when I go to paint it all.

 

The really odd thing about these 2 vehicles, is where the rust is on the green one, seems almost non existant on the red one.

 

I don't know what model year cars these are, but later cars are less susceptible to rust damage at the rear quarterlight.

Larry

 

The green one is a 1987, and the red one is a 1988 model. the red one has better drivetrain while the green one has a better body.

 

Ok Thanks - might be an idea to add the car VIN / Model Year info to your signature file. Help is easier to get that way as these cars change quite a bit over the production run.

Larry

 

what method did you use to remove the stainless trim around the quarter light? The trim is bonded to the glass usually.
the front and rear screens are straight forward to remove/ I have done a lot of them, but the quarters are always a struggle I find.

 

I think the ski slope and ash tray veneers need to be done on a vacuum bag to get them flat to the plate, since they are curved.

 

I used a heat gun and a metal trim removal tool.The plastic trim tools will simply get too hot and bend. it did take a lot of heat. A hair dryer will not make enough heat. Remove the 2 screws from the trim, but never pry this area. I heated the inner part of the trim from the outside, (in my case it was the black area.) following the gutter just gently prying, I saw a small amount of smoke on the inside and found that the trim was slowly coming out. Believe me it is too hot to hold with an unprotected hand. Being even more gentle I did the same thing to get the glass out, at no time do you use force as it may come out, but you will damge it very easily. Be patient or this can go pear shaped pretty fast.

 

Thanks for the info. very useful to know.
I am surprised it didn’t damaged the inner trim on any way. As I noticed you had left it in.

I assume you are going to paint the car, so any paint damage will not matter? But potentially could that amount of heat blister/ damage the paint near trim? If it was done on a car with nice paint for example?

 

I think because I did everything from the outside, the inside trim was not touching the glass, so I figured there was no need to disturb it. I will be recovering the head lining so I may as well take it all out of the back window, and I will see what condition the sunroof is in when it all comes out. The thing I also accidently found that because I never put heat on the cars paint itself (the glass wore most of the heat.) the paint did not suffer any damage at all from either car.

 

Thanks for the info. I will try it at some point, but I don’t know if I will have your patience.

 

Well I decided not to take the all out body filler way, I kind of felt the rust would still come back as it hasn't been removed. so it was time to start cutting and getting ready for the welding, that is the easy part.

 

I had a fairly large area of rust in the bootlid as well, so I removed the whole area that was rusted.

 

You were lucky to find a donor car that’s much better in those areas than the green car! I usually find all of them going on the same places.

Are spare panels hard to find in the US? Or just too expensive? The size will make them costly to transport.

 

Cut and weld is the only way to go. Filler never lasts long. So keep up the good work.