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Since my current fuel filler cap is rusted beyond recognition and in two pieces, I'm in the market for a new one. Thing is, due to the rust, I can't really make out whether or not this is the necessary part (and I'll confess to struggling with the jaguarlandroverclassic website and finding the exact part I want, bad user not service). Is the below what I am looking for? I know that the 89-91(?) filler cap is rubber and looks a lot different from the top so this definitely looks a lot more correct, although the current one I have does not have a black underside, instead is rusted metal/white plastic.
Thanks for all of your help so far, I'm loving the exploration, discovery and pursuit of a running, breathing Jag!
I’ve removed the two bolts from the thermostat housing going to the radiator but hadn’t quite gotten to the point of thinking how I now separate the two…looks like a fair amount of sealant was used too. Any tips?
Got it all changed out and sorted, small smell of fuel but I basically flushed and refilled the coolant so hoping that may be part of the issue, backed it up a little and found this 8mm bolt and hook under the centre of the car roughly where the fuel injectors are but have no idea where it has come from. Has Gr.2 written on the hook but been unable to find a source for what this may mean so far.
Went for another drive of about 2-3 minutes and another small cloud of smoke when opening the bonnet back up. Rear of the engine/underneath is where it’s coming from but engine block is warm and exhaust manifold et al is incredibly hot. Got my first reading for oil pressure which means the new thermostat is working, now just to fix the overheating issue…
Could the issue be being very low on fuel, or am I just living life in hope?
That bolt and plastic clamp hold the fuel pressure line to the fuel rail. There are 2. I hate to suggest it but if your exhaust Is Actually too hot maybe your cats are plugged.(if you have them there). Since this has not happened to me, I'm not sure but maybe it would set the check engine light? I'm thinking maybe not, since the o2 sensor doesn't measure flow, only particles.
Good progress!
That bolt and plastic clamp hold the fuel pressure line to the fuel rail. There are 2. I hate to suggest it but if your exhaust Is Actually too hot maybe your cats are plugged.(if you have them there). Since this has not happened to me, I'm not sure but maybe it would set the check engine light? I'm thinking maybe not, since the o2 sensor doesn't measure flow, only particles.
Good progress!
yeah I found one and the other had mysteriously vanished so definitely that, was far too obvious for me to notice apparently! I’ve got no warning lights on besides fuel and battery (the latter an ongoing issue). I’m going to put some more fuel in tomorrow and see, first couple of times when fuel was less of a concern it wasn’t overheating so I’m hoping it’ll help to some degree. If not I’ll get it up on some stands tomorrow and have a little look underneath and go from there. Thanks for your continued support, without the help and encouragement from people like yourself I’d be lost!
That happens to me sometimes- A thing is Too Big and Obvious for me to see. My only excuse could be "it was too close, I couldnt see it"
As for your battery light, mine has come on at times if the main heavy cable comes loose (my own fault). Maybe just check the connections there --after unhooking the battery of course.
For your exhaust temp, can you try comparing it to another vehicle? Or maybe take it to a shop just for that once youre confident with its running. Mine will get hot enough to burn me in a few minutes. Its hard to gauge yours from over here but i dont want you to replace it on my suggestion alone.
That happens to me sometimes- A thing is Too Big and Obvious for me to see. My only excuse could be "it was too close, I couldnt see it"
As for your battery light, mine has come on at times if the main heavy cable comes loose (my own fault). Maybe just check the connections there --after unhooking the battery of course.
For your exhaust temp, can you try comparing it to another vehicle? Or maybe take it to a shop just for that once youre confident with its running. Mine will get hot enough to burn me in a few minutes. Its hard to gauge yours from over here but i dont want you to replace it on my suggestion alone.
yeah I get do that a lot also. Battery needs jumping every time as it’s not holding charge even for a few minutes and it came to me like that so all good I’m that regard. It’s definitely hotter than normal as it’s smoking and it easily reaches temperatures hotter than an oven in a few minutes of running, by no means an exaggeration.
If it comes to it I will likely take it apart piece by piece and do a full clean up before jumping to a replacement for anything. Far be it from me to afford doing that!
Smoked hard yesterday while idle. Today…nothing. But I feel like the likelihood is that I’m possibly looking at a leak onto the exhaust as after comparing with my wife’s car…it’s about the same.
so onto my next line of query. After searching I think I’ve found the correct front jacking point but just want to make sure; pictured below with the white label is white I believe to be the crossmember under the engine which I’ve seen described but just wanted to check before 1700kg of car falls through my skull. Feel like I’m making progress at least!
Having a quick look around I’ve found what may be the source of my concerns, didn’t even need to Jack…yet.
This is from under the metal exhaust cover going to the “furthest back” exhaust line, left one in the picture below also. I am assuming that those two parts are meant to be sealed a little tighter…?
third image is the connection for the other line but looks to be done better (or correctly as I believe it to be). Could this be the cause of a massive amount of heat and what looks to be some smoke (possibly exhaust) from under the engine perhaps?
So here’s the latest. Ran the car for a while this evening and tried to follow the trail of smoke and found this.
Something appears to be leaking. The diamond shape is wet as well so it’s definitely fresh, I’m just not sure what it is as I can’t find what liquid in the car is yellow/brown…Seems to be a lot of grease so could it be that melting? Not so sure!
thanks, I’ll have to take a look, any clues on where to look for the leak location or is the point of leaking likely to be that diamond shaped piece of metal?
It looks to me like your exhaust is seaied nicely, Exhaust leaks will leave black ash residue but yours are dry and clean, just rust as normal. The yellow gross liquid is probably coolant, as likely as not from your recent flush. I have a suggestion for your smoke after running. There is a flat plate bolted to the back end of the head which requires its own gasket. It could be that is your source. I think mine is leaking but it is nearly impossible to see with the motor assembled. Its also hard to get the cam cover gasket to seal well and this will run down the back side of the motor and smoke at the motor/ transmission joint. Going back to the first pic, the area you are showing will hold the car on a jack. I would try to keep the jack toward the front or rear of the crossmember since it is hollow and will get caved in over repeated lifting (ask me how I know).
It looks to me like your exhaust is seaied nicely, Exhaust leaks will leave black ash residue but yours are dry and clean, just rust as normal. The yellow gross liquid is probably coolant, as likely as not from your recent flush. I have a suggestion for your smoke after running. There is a flat plate bolted to the back end of the head which requires its own gasket. It could be that is your source. I think mine is leaking but it is nearly impossible to see with the motor assembled. Its also hard to get the cam cover gasket to seal well and this will run down the back side of the motor and smoke at the motor/ transmission joint. Going back to the first pic, the area you are showing will hold the car on a jack. I would try to keep the jack toward the front or rear of the crossmember since it is hollow and will get caved in over repeated lifting (ask me how I know).
Thanks for your reliable as ever replies! I did notice that the exhaust pipes did continue despite the gap so realised it was unlikely to be that.
Gotcha, there is a lot of relatively thick grease in different areas as well so I've been trying to find the highest concentration of that. If it were coolant, it's very unlikely to have reached here as this is behind the engine whereas everything came from the front of the engine (I feel it's unlikely, but it may be less so) as I drained the coolant from where the thermostat housing connects to the radiator hose. Feel free to correct me if this is actually more likely and my car geography is off.
When you say the back end of the head, what are we exactly talking about in Lehmann's terms? As in the back side of the engine block? Is it most visible from the top or bottom of the engine? Apologies for all of the questions, more than solving the issue, I'm trying to build up knowledge on parts and areas of the car so that I can be more descriptive and learn more as I'm really enjoying the process so far! I'll have a look at the cam cover gasket as well - I'll likely be spending some time with the transmission as it's far from smooth going between reverse and drive (a certain degree of rolling occurs every time - though this could be due to the brakes being atrocious also - will be bleeding those over the weekend too).
I did try jacking with the central crossmember (I think that's what it's called) that runs down the spine of the car, and that certainly caused a little bending of the metal, definitely need to be sure to use some wood this time (rookie error, I realise, though managed to stop before causing any extreme damage thankfully.
Thank you so much for your sharing of knowledge and help as always - definitely makes the whole process a lot less daunting and intimidating!
Welcome to the Jaguar Forums! It's great to have you with us.
Sorry to join your thread late, but I've just read your entire thread with great interest.
Regarding your exhaust, unless you have a clogged catalytic converter as Jerry mentioned, it is completely normal and no problem for the exhaust manifold and heat shield to heat up very quickly. The oxygen sensors don't even begin to work until the exhaust reaches 315°C / 600°F, and it is desireable for this to occur as quickly as possible both to reduce excessive emissions and to allow the engine to enter "closed-loop fueling" to optimize fuel economy and engine performance.
Some of the other members have alluded to there being some XJ40s with the battery in the engine compartment and some with the battery in the trunk. It is important to be aware that your early XJ40 may have a 3.6L or 2.9L engine, while from about 1990 onward the engines were 4.0L or 3.2L, and many other details of the vehicles changed. In 1993 there were more changes. So it will help others if you add the year and engine details of your car to your signature so this appears in all of your posts. This will help other members give you the most accurate replies to your inquiries.
Also, here are a few reference documents to start your library:
Welcome to the Jaguar Forums! It's great to have you with us.
Hey, thanks for the info! It’s a 4L with the battery under the bonnet, my difficulty is that I’ve seen 91,92 and 93 on different parts of the car so I’m not 100%, I’m not sure if they shipped them to Australia whole or in larger parts etc or not but I think the insurance website I’ve looked at quotes on said 92, and the car was bought in 93 by the original owner I believe. If it helps further, the fuel tank and fuel pump are in the boot, I know the pump changed location at some point. I’ll add the information to my signature as soon as I’m 100%, keep forgetting to grab the VIN to look it up
Jaguars were never assembled in Australia. All were complete cars imported from England.
South Africa (SA) and New Zealand did assemble Jaguars and I understand SA also did a fair bit of manufacturing.
I don't think the Australian government would have been too keen for Jaguar to manufacture/assemble here as it was heavily invested in the GM Holden.
When you decode your VIN, let us know the model year and I'll post links to the appropriate reference documents. The Haynes manual will be good for your car regardless of year.
04-22-2024, 09:02 PM
