My PS pipes are leaking at the flared connectors on the rack. I have replaced both pipes with new ones from a hydraulic hose shop.

According to the Jag Service Manual, the "pipe union seals can be renewed by tapping a suitable thread in the internal bore of the seat (brass tubing) and inserting a set screw with an attached nut and plain washer"

But, there are no parts numbers for the two different sized flare fitting openings that would show a picture or what part numbers to order? Also, I cannot find any place that sells these needed parts???

My rack is perfect except for this nagging leak. I would have it rebuilt/repaired if I could find a shop with the proper seals.

Does anyone have any ideas of a source for these parts? I have contacted several rack rebuilding places so far with no replies... I would assume that a quality rebuilder would "automatically" replace these parts when rebuilding???

 

Just a really way out there guess. It is a plumber's thing. Metal to metal that means both surfaces must be smooth and unmarred. And, super tight to seal effectively in the pressure hose.


Shift to water plumbing. An old tech conventional faucet. The stem has a rubber washer. That is different. But, the faucet body has a soft metal removable seat. Plumbers have a tool to engage the square opening and allow it to be unscrewed. Replace with fresh part in new brass.


Swapping in washers on a faucet with a bad seat will leak, a given....


How do I know this? Been there...


Carl.

 

Roger,
I had that leak problem with my steering pump and trans cooler. Husband knew of an old mechanic's trick of inserting soft copper washers into the female fitting and then tightening the male **TIGHT!**

https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/x...1/#post1315501

As these washers are dead soft, they deformed to the tiny imperfections on the fittings themselves, sealing it up. After installing them I haven't had a leak since.

He found them at a North Valley Fastener in Chico, but you should be able to find them in your area.
(';')

 

Lnrb

Thanks for the reply.. I have had a reply from a major rack rebuilder and the correct seals are available... your idea was great...

I do not believe that Cats should mark their spots this well!

 

Just received the photo of the seals... easy to remove and replace and they are on the way to me now... thanks to Dick Maury of Coventry West!

Just insert a sheet metal screw into the opening and wiggle the old one out.. use a brass hollow drift to insert the new ones.. tighten the flares and refill the PS fluid.

 

Easier to get out the pipe union seals with a long sheet metal screw of the two appropriate sizes just inserted into the round opening, the twist and turn to remove... hard to get them back in as the angle to hit them flat in place with a drift punch is not straight while under the car laying on the ground.

They are in and no leaks so far.. have started it with the front wheels off the ground and ran them back and forth from side to side several times.. then did that again..will see what it looks like tomorrow. Would be a easy job if the steering rack was out on a table...

Looks like major progress on the leaks.... thanks to Dick Maury for the advice about using the sheet metal screws to do the removal...

 

I'm glad that worked for you Roger.
I didn't even know those seals existed!
(';')

 

Success, either way. Slick. Tis a plumbing thing. Clean metal to metal. Some olds tech water "bibs" have removable seats. And a tool to remove and replace them. And, I have a recollection of a fixture to grind the seat smooth in situ. A kind of a manual end mill.


Got mine to stop weeping with an extra tight pull on the wrench, via son's strong.
machinist hands. Oh, and the 13mm line wrench, courtesy my collection of "stuff"!!


Carl

 

After replacing the PS pump, the metal pipes, the pipe union seals... I found the remaining source of the PS fluid leak.

I cleaned all off carefully this AM... started the car with it jacked up... within 30 seconds there is fluid coming out of the top seal of the rack where the steering shaft attaches!!!

Will contact Coventry West on Monday for the procedure to send my rack in for a full overhaul... glad to be down to the end of the problems. Currently I get about 250 miles before needing to refill the pump reservoir and it makes a large mess under the car when parked.

The rack in there now was replaced about 15 years ago with a rebuilt one.. this time they will rebuild mine and confirm it is not leaking.. Dick Maury says they use air to test the racks as it will pass easier than fluid.

 

That's where mine leaks! Right at the tower seal!
But I get about 1000 miles out of a Full reservoir. Maybe next Winter I'll send if off for a rebuild.
(';')

 

Or:


Gather up a core and get it rebuilt. Then when winter comes, old out, new in.


Nit picking. Not a sea, but a seat at issue.


Side bar: Good session with the chain saw yesterday.


1. Finished off dropped limb from neighbor's beautiful Magnolia. It fell across my ATT line. Not in use, I have Xfinity. All in the green can!


2. Trimmed off big chunks of dead Hawthorne tree trunk. One may be two to go.
Leaves one lively and healthy trunk blooming wonderfully. Always thought it was a Bay tree, til neighbor lady corrected me. She, a far better gardener than I. Recently retired director of parks of a neighboring city.


3. More weed whacking on the agenda in a bit


Carl

 

I have done the rack replacement three other times.. it is not a tough job. Finding a S1 rack so I do not have to convert to a later model is tough and would just increase the cost and time to have a non leaking car... it is a real mess under the car each day! My current rack has new tie rods ends and a newish Poly bushing... only leak (now) is at that top seal.

Easier to just drop it and send it to Coventry West... sent a email this AM about the possibility of changing just the top seal.. from all the Forum(s) postings this is possible but tricky as it must be properly inserted.

 

GREAT NEWS.. the two upper seals in the tower of the rack are on the way... they can be replaced with the rack still in the car...

 

After taking off the circlip the top seal is next... it came out so easily it fell onto the ground. Next is the lower seal.. it's direction is obvious and was re-installed that same direction and distance.

I have replaced the lower seal and was putting it back together and am not sure of the direction the top seal should be installed... it has a metal washer on one side. I think the metal washer side goes downward but do not want to do this job again...

I removed only PS pump pressure hose and left the return attached hose... I drained the fluid into a oil container.

I removed the pinch bolt from the steering knuckle and then I had to remove the three bolts/nuts that hold the rack in place to drop the rack enough to get off the steering knuckle.. only had to go down about an inch. the rack then turns to gain access to the top of the tower. Removing the circlip is fun as there is limited room.

You have to note the distance the lower seal is installed and put the new back in place the same amount using plastic tools or a screwdriver with the edges ground off... lube the seals for ease of installation. Photos show the knuckle without enough room to clear the top of the rack.. the other photo shows the top seal installed (while waiting to confirm the seal direction).. almost done and the car is just jacked up onto stands in the front. Job would be very easy if the rack was totally off the car! But it is very hard to get things lined back up and get the knuckle back into the correct position for the pinch bolt if taken that far apart.

Once I get the proper orientation of the top seal confirmed, I will finish the job.

 

I found out I was correct, thanks to Dick Maury, the metal side of the top seal goes in downward. Will finish up the rack sealing job today.

Removing the three retaining bolts to drop the rack down made access to the circlip much easier. Still had the tie rods ends connected.