At the suggestion of Jose and the fact that I'll be seeking input on a fairly regular basis, I've decided to launch a build thread for my 1971 XJ6. The goal is to build a bit of a sleeper. I have no concrete plans on what this will transform into yet, but I am not a fan of doing a chevy conversion. Nothing against those that go the SBC route, but I've been hot rodding for long enough and the SBC in everything gets kind of tired and old to me.

I don't want to repeat too much of what I've already said, but here is the brief synopsis:

Here is what I've learned as of 3/19:
1. Engine freely turns over, builds oil pressure while starter turns
2. Very little works at the moment in the electrical system
3. Gas tanks are SHOT and need replacement (either keep the dual tanks or fuel cell)
4. Interior will be quite the project

Some before pics:

 

Despite my intention to modify, my very first priority is to get the vehicle up and running under its own power. I've been studying up on the shop manual that came with the vehicle (circa 1972!). After being encouraged by the fact that the motor turned freely and looked to be in better shape than I was expecting, I rrdered up parts to start refurbishing the brakes, ignition, fuel system and some electrical bits.

Sadly this may have been premature as I was greeted by this when I got home:

 

Yeah, I'd say those fuel tanks are toast alright...I just started to refurbish my seriesII - I will check in on your build and see how it's going and cheer you on when you come home to things like that. I have some parts that you may need/want for the interior. A nice dash pad for sure. I'd have to check my pile o goodies for other stuff.
Have a look at the 'Series II restoration' post below....

Solo out

 

Yup. Going to need some tank work. I have a S3 but I would think pulling the tanks is pretty similar. Check my photos. I put some basic guidance on this within the Jpg's. I was contacted by a guy that needed some help on the same subject. The fact that the engine turns over is a big plus. Also read some more posts - many are putting additional filters in the system to keep them clean once you sort it out. Overall, looking forward to watching the progress.

 

Honest question for the forum here: I know there a a good amount of purists here, but what are the advantages of keeping the dual tank set up over a fuel cell in the trunk? I mean I certainly appreciate the twin tank set up to an extent, but it seems that price, safety, and simplicity lean towards a fuel cell. Am I wrong for thinking this?

 

If connecting to a Jag side filler tank had been easier to do - I might have considered the cell. But, losing all the upper trunk storage length
as well - just changed out the stock tanks and added a return line and filters before and after the inline fuel pump. The Pollak six port changeover
valve was a great improvement over the Jag stuff...

Have had cars with no outside fuel filler neck - it causes fumes in the trunk that stay forever, plus the eventual spills.

Jag trunk is such an odd shape already that giving up capacity did not seem like a good thing. It would have been easier to hookup the return line and
adding a fuel pump inside the the tank would have been quieter. Getting a Jag appropriate fuel sender (Ohms) would have been tricky - might have had to
have the fuel gauge "converted".

Glad I did as I added the (4) four speaker box under the rear package tray in the end.

 

keep the two tanks, you might get them restored or get two new ones.

other than the Dash Cap, the dash itself looks good.

 

Good to know. I've been trying to search for some people who have done a fuel cell conversion with maintaining an outside fill location. It definitely doesn't seem like too many people have. I am not terribly concerned about trunk space since this is going to be a "fun" car anyway, but I don't want to just simply toss something in the back either (I'd like to keep it somewhat clean). I guess some $500 in tanks is just a tough pill to swallow.

 

The tanks I'm pretty sure are toast. The right tank drain plug didn't take much effort to remove as it took what little was left of the tank with one twist. The left side might be repairable, but I'm not too confident. I'll pull the tanks on Sunday (next chance I have to really work on it). In the meantime I have brake parts, ignition, and some lighting on its way. Should keep me busy.

 

Looking for some advice here. I started working on dropping the LH tank. Removed the cover, disconnected the fuel line, removed 3 bolts plus the nut on the main rod. The tank seems to be moving freely,yet it won't drop down??? Am I missing something? So far all I have gained in this effort is seeing a very promising looking tank spring a leak while trying to get the damn thing out (and talk about some nasty looking gas).

Any advice would be greatly appreciated!

 

I assume the filler cap assembly is already off, and wiring to fuel level transmitter too. The tank cannot come off without first removing the filler assembly.

You say you have already removed the fuel feed pipe from tank to trunk leading to fuel changeover valve so I can't see where the trouble is. Take the rear light assembly off and have a look-see with a torch.

 

No... I was hoping the weight of the tank would assist in separating the filler neck from the fuel tank, but they seem to be welded together (figuratively speaking...)

I've tried to pry it free, but all that is resulting in is body damage that I'd like to minimize. Perhaps I need to buy a couple cans of rust remover and just spray the hell out of it and hope for the best...

 

I remember having a hell of a time freeing them up on the parts car I stripped back in 'stralia. I think rust remover is a good route to take.

 

the filler cap fits exactly in the neck of the tank, and this connection is sealed with a rubber ring. This ring prevents the filler cap assembly and tank to rot together, at least in my case the were uncoupled in no time.

about the fuel cell. My S1 runs on lpg, (well, once it's finished). The lpg tank sits in the back, has an 80 liter capacity and I still think I have lots of space left.

If you want a single tank, You could take an xj40 tank. The xj40 has about the same sizes as the S1, like wheelbase, width etc. so the tank fits in the back perfectly. The filler neck even reaches in the direction of the S1 left filler cap. You would need only a small piece of flexible fuel hose, and you could connect the xj40 tank with your s1 filler cap.

Iwanted to do this, because I put an aj6 in my s1, but becauase I also have the lpg tank in the back, it didn't work out. BUt it's very straightforward.

 

Yes sir. Sometimes getting the filler neck to seperate from the gas cap is the hardest part of the job. On the series three I removed the three screws holding it to the wing and twisted it back and forth until it started to move. Liberal amounts of wd-40, a mallet, and I used plastic pry bars to lift and wiggle until it comes loose. Once you get that out it will drop down.

Also - on the series 3 the filler neck has 2 o-ring seals inside the tank and on the neck. You need to replace these before you put the tank back in. Otherwise you run the risk of water coming back down into the tank.

I have a picture album that shows some high lites of the process. Albums - dropping saddle tanks.

Good luck.

 

I can confirm the difficulty with removing the filler caps, having done it in the 90s. The trick is to get it to rotate a bit to break the corrosion seal. Be careful, though, when levering, as it is a Mazak casting.

 

how can a 1971 be "billed" in the same section or category as an XJ40???
Surely should be another section,,,,,,,,,,,come onnnnnnnnnn.

Michael Prichard
Melbourne Australia

 

SUCCESS!!!

Took some WD-40 and blasted the ever living snot out of both filler necks. The RH filler neck came off fairly easy and with no tools needed (thankfully). The LH side however took a lot more effort and got a few parting shots in (time to bust out the body hammers while the tank is out....) but eventually succumbed. If there was a rubber o-ring between the tank and the filler neck, it had long since disappeared which probably explained the stubbornness of this project

I dropped the LH tank since it was the most promising and well, now I'm not too sure. It did spring a leak in perhaps the worse place possible (underneath the mounting bracket for back bolt). I did drain the rest of the nasty rust colored liquid out of it and what is left sounds like sand rolling around in the bottom (likely massive chunks of rust). If I can repair this tank, then it might make the cost of replacing the RH tank an easier to manage, but given the leak and amount of rust, I may just have to call it a loss too.

As usual, pics attached!

And to Michael, I'm not sure what you are commenting on, but I do believe this is clearly in the XJ6 forum and not the xj40

 

Liking this so far! I might suggest a POR-15 treatment on the tanks? Just my two cents. I will be following this!

 

Buy new tanks !! They are available. Best not to risk things with such a vital component. especially if you're restoring the car !

JAGUAR XJ6 SERIES 1 SERIES 2 FUEL TANK RH C40190

There are other suppliers like SNG Barratt (USA)

SNG Barratt - The Ultimate Jaguar Parts Specialist