XJ6 & XJ12 Series I, II & III 1968-1992

1981 XJ6 been sitting awhile, What to do?

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  #1  
Old 12-15-2015 | 10:08 PM
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Default 1981 XJ6 been sitting awhile, What to do?

Picking up a new to me 81 XJ6 this Saturday. Bought it from a widow. She said her husband last drove it in 2010-2011. I popped the fuel caps and smelled the fuel. It's tarnished. It does run and drive but it runs rough. I will be trailering it home to not hurt anything with the old fuel. This is my first fuel injected import but have been a basic mechanic all my life. I have been building and restoring street rods since 1992. My idea was to perform a basic tune up and fluid change. I would like to pull the fuel tanks and flush them out. New fuel filter and maybe fuel injector O rings too. I don't even mind replacing the fuel pump for preventative maintenance. Is there anything else you guys would do or check on the 4.2 that's been sitting this long? It shows 117,000 miles. Where would I get a new fuel sending unit seal? If I pull the fuel tank I'd like to go ahead and replace the seals. Been doing some research and it looks like two separate fuel tanks. Any special tools needed to remove the fuel lines on an 81? Sorry for the book I just wrote.
 
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Old 12-16-2015 | 06:46 AM
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Brakes and brake lines are the first priority. Rubber perishes and sticks with non-use and bores can corrode.

Change the coolant and brake fluid as part of the service.
 
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Old 12-16-2015 | 08:19 AM
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Hafrod:


I'm definitely not a pro mechanic. but, I feel a kinship. The
project before the Jaguar was a "Hot rod of the forties".
Model A frame. Z'd at the rear. Springs with reversed eyes.
4" dropped front axle by Mordrop. "Juice" brakes from an early
40. 59AB flat head. Crab distributor. Dual 94 carbs. Edelbrock heads and headers. 35 Ford 16's in red. and, a 27 T roadster body, oh, a 32 grill!!!


To your project: You may not need to pull the tanks. There are big
rubberoid plug on the valences just aft of the rear wheels. Remove them. the tank drains are two fold. a large nut and a smaller one into it. Remove the large one. .A lot of junk or none will come out. Flush if you wish. Be prepared with new gaskets. In he event, a lot of "crud" comes out, move into the boot. Install small filters between the tank and pump. these will be sacrificial. it may take a few to absorb all the crud. that protects the change over valve, pump and main filter.


Fresh fuel will do wonders. And a start with a car that runs, even if poorly is a big deal.


Mine is lumped. but, it's DOHC was "interesting"!!!!


Carl
 
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Old 12-16-2015 | 04:01 PM
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Thanks for the heads up on the rubber plugs and drain plugs. That would be great if I did not have to remove them. I'm assuming there is a tank switch for left and right tanks? Sorry if the question seems stupid. The car will not be in my possession till Friday afternoon. Wanting to drain the tanks and do the full service the rest of the weekend to drive to work Monday. I bought a few new buffing pads on my lunch break today for it.
 
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Old 12-16-2015 | 04:13 PM
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Originally Posted by HAFROD
...I'm assuming there is a tank switch for left and right tanks?...
The button switch is directly beneath the cigar lighter on the dash. Push in to use the left tank, out for right.
 
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Old 12-17-2015 | 04:23 AM
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And, the valve in the boot that the switch Tony describes
operates.


Yeah, a bit back I did a memory thing to impress "left in, right out"
in my brain.


Carl
 
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Old 12-17-2015 | 05:29 AM
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hi,
a 1981 is an early Series 3 XJ-6. The Series 3 XJ body style started in mid 1979 and kept going through 1987 with the 6 cylinder engine, and until 1992 with the 12 cylinder engine. It is considered the last of the Analog Jaguars because in 1988 Jaguar Cars unveiled the Series 4 XJ-40 with a different body style and many Digital systems which you might want to stay away from. So welcome to the Series 3. Download the factory Service and Parts manual sections as needed from the HOW TOs Quick Links at the top of the page, free.

Draining the tanks:

if the car still has the factory plastic panel hole plugs, you need to push them out of the way to get to the drain bolt; Getting them back in place is another story.

open the gas filler cap. then open the drain to allow the gasoline-turned to-turpentine to drain; You can push the sprung safety plug in the gas filler neck and spray water down with a garden hose to sort of clean the crud. If you want to get to the mesh filters inside each tank, then instead of removing the drain bolt, remove the large nut/plug which comes off as an entire assembly complete with mesh filter, but Before you remove that, order replacement seals from SNG Barrat USA store or from whoever you prefer. They're like $1.00 each seal.

fuel tank plug sealing washer:
http://www.sngbarratt.com/ProductDet...e6ee28eeb4&l=7


exploded view of tanks and parts:
http://www.sngbarratt.com/CatalogueP...=17783&a=17662
 

Last edited by Jose; 12-17-2015 at 07:56 AM.
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Old 12-17-2015 | 11:53 AM
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As usual, nice reply Jose. How close will that procedure be for a 77XJ?
 
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Old 12-17-2015 | 02:57 PM
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Originally Posted by JagCad
And, the valve in the boot that the switch Tony describes
operates.


Yeah, a bit back I did a memory thing to impress "left in, right out"
in my brain.


Carl
Funny you should mention that Carl, I did a similar thing and now it comes naturally. THEN, only about a week ago, I discovered that the left edge of the switch button (RHD car) when in the out position shows a R symbol!
 

Last edited by jagent; 12-17-2015 at 03:13 PM. Reason: correction
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Old 12-17-2015 | 04:33 PM
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Originally Posted by jagent
Funny you should mention that Carl, I did a similar thing and now it comes naturally. THEN, only about a week ago, I discovered that the left edge of the switch button (RHD car) when in the out position shows a R symbol!
Theoretically the button has a left arrow and a right arrow on the face, which light up. But mine never have…
 
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Old 12-17-2015 | 05:11 PM
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Originally Posted by Tar
Theoretically the button has a left arrow and a right arrow on the face, which light up. But mine never have…

Burned out bulbs, likely. But even when the lights are working the puny glow they emit is about the same as you'd get from two fireflies rubbing their little legs together

Cheers
DD
 
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Old 12-17-2015 | 07:31 PM
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I'm so excited. Tomorrow afternoon I get my Jaguar. I'll post pics
 
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Old 12-18-2015 | 09:45 AM
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I went this morning to my local auto parts store. Everything had to be ordered = oil filter, plug wires, spark plugs, fuel injector O rings, and fuel filter. I did purchase a couple cans of Berrymans B12 fuel injector/carb cleaner. Will it be OK to remove injectors from rail and submerge/soak them in the B12 cleaner till tomorrow? Also the spark plugs I ordered were NGK. I wanted Bosch but he said they would have to be special ordered and I would have to pay freight. Are the NGK good for the 4.2 Jaguar? Also been looking for a thread or video on throttle body cleaning but nothing yet
 
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Old 12-18-2015 | 10:30 AM
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As to the fuel tank selection button markings and lights, I am with Doug. Hence my old tech method. Heck, old tech three on the floor shifters didn't have diagrams and lights, One just knew, down and left is low. LHD cars, of course.


I see no reason why either brand of spark plugs should not do just fine.


As to the Berryman,. no knock on the product, an old and respected name. but, like most cleaners, probably emasculated.


Soaking? Never tried that?


Carl
 
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Old 12-18-2015 | 03:59 PM
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Got the car home. I drove it on the trailer. Found out it's a 1982 instead of 81. I drained the left tank and a lot of crud came out. I feel that removing them to slosh them out is a good idea. The trans seems a little slippy in reverse. I am unsure how to check the trans fluid level. Does it need to be running to check the transmission fluid? Also, I looked through the owners manual and cannot find what fluid type to put in if it's low. Type F? Dexron? Found a receipt in the car for a head gasket replacement at local Jaguar dealer in 1997.
 
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Old 12-18-2015 | 04:36 PM
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Originally Posted by HAFROD
Got the car home. I drove it on the trailer. Found out it's a 1982 instead of 81. I drained the left tank and a lot of crud came out. I feel that removing them to slosh them out is a good idea.
Removing the tanks is fairly labor intensive so you might wanna consider having them professionally cleaned as long as you're going thru all the trouble.

But, there are in-car alternatives. A pal of mine cleaned his tanks, in-car, with a garden hose and then flushed thru with fresh gas.


The trans seems a little slippy in reverse.

Low and/or dirty fluid....or the bands need adjusting



I am unsure how to check the trans fluid level. Does it need to be running to check the transmission fluid?
Yes, engine running....and fluid well warmed up. Drive 10 miles, park on level surface, leave engine running, check the level



Also, I looked through the owners manual and cannot find what fluid type to put in if it's low. Type F? Dexron? Found a receipt in the car for a head gasket replacement at local Jaguar dealer in 1997.

Type F or Type FA is the usual recommendation. Dexron is OK if you want a softer shift

Cheers
DD
 
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Old 12-18-2015 | 04:37 PM
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Originally Posted by HAFROD
....I am unsure how to check the trans fluid level. Does it need to be running to check the transmission fluid? Also, I looked through the owners manual and cannot find what fluid type to put in if it's low. Type F? Dexron?
Jaguar specify Type G for the BW trans. Mine trans. is a GM T700 so I use Dexron II.

See below, this is the relevant page from the handbook re. checking fluid level.
 
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Old 12-18-2015 | 04:40 PM
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BTW, the dipstick sits high at rear of engine, near the firewall.
 
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Old 12-18-2015 | 04:53 PM
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Originally Posted by jagent
Jaguar specify Type G for the BW trans. Mine trans. is a GM T700 so I use Dexron II.

See below, this is the relevant page from the handbook re. checking fluid level.


Type G has been obsolete in the USA for years and years. Not sure about elsewhere. The closest replacement is F or FA


Cheers
DD
 
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Old 12-18-2015 | 05:05 PM
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Originally Posted by jagent
BTW, the dipstick sits high at rear of engine, near the firewall.
On mine that is, might be different on the BW.
 


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