the white XJ-6 shown in the picture looks in very good shape. Stick with it and fix the issues. The blowers not running could be a simple fix.

 

I'm going to stick with it Jose. Heck, I'm upside down in it now. Lol

 

post more pics of the car !!

 

Here's the engine and interior.

 

OK, I started doing checks with my test light on the fuses at the passengers side fuse block. With the car running, only 3 are getting power. One of them has nothing on the other side of the fuse. I have my owners manual and it shows which one is heater/AC but don't know which fuse it is. The manual shows a two digit number but nothing on the block with numbers.

 

The fuse block panel was in the trunk. When I dug it out, I found the fuse label. Removed all the fuses and cleaned contacts on block and fuse ends. The blower fuse did not look bad but my meter would not screech. Replaced the fuse and blower works. I also found my electric antenna wire on relay was unhooked. Now it works. While it was up, I cleaned the stalk and lubed it. It works smoother and quieter. Making a little electrical headway now. My parts car is on the way. Going to swap its fuel pump relay with mine to see if my fuel pump comes on. If it don't fix it, I'll try the red diode pack. If that does not fix it, I'm lost

 

I had downloaded the manual here but cannot find it in my computer. I purchased a Jaguar manual from ebay last night. Not the Haynes which could have been a lot cheaper. I like paper in the hand when I'm wrenching on my cars

 

Forget Haynes. Very confusing and disappointing!


Find and down load Jaguar electric schematic publication S57.


Best electric schematics, I have ever seen. Even, I get them.


Over the years, I've scanned pages and shared them with others stuck in electrical jungles.


Carl

 

The pics show a nice example of an early Series 3. I wonder why so many things disconnected but one fix at a time will get it completed. Check to see if the Inertia Fuel Cutoff Switch is also disconnected. Located in passenger side, below right corner of dash, partly hidden by the kick upholstery cover. It is a black box with a wiring plug connector at the bottom and a push button on top. If connector is plugged in place, push the button to feel if it clicks. If it clicks it means it was tripped, the engine should start after reset.

 

I tried to start it and again no power to the fuel pump. I've had it jumped on the relay to get it to run. I grabbed my test light and had no ignition power at the relay. It did before. This is weird. I pushed the fuel inertia button and it did click. I also swapped the red diode pack and fuel pump relay off the parts car and it started right up. I installed my old diode pack and fuel relay on the parts car and it started up and ran. What the heck? Why would I not have ignition power to my relay when I checked it when it quit starting? Could the ignition switch be faulty?

 

[QUOTE=Hafrod;1401600]What the heck?/[QUOTE]


My guess is a poor connection. Have you carefully examined the terminals inside the sockets for the relay and the diode pack?


Cheers
DD

 

Doug, the relay connectors on the plug look really dark.

 

if both cars start now, the ignition switches can be assumed to be good. If the inertia switch clicked when button was pressed, then it must have tripped to OFF position and in that case, it takes a while for the fuel system to pressurize again. So both cars are starting now?

 

Yes, both cars are starting and running.

 

Oxidation.

These are hard to clean. I use tiny brushes like these.....

TCP KIT-ABCLEANER

....and aerosol electric contact cleaner.

But you can use your imagination....and whatever you have in the garage....to clean 'em.

After cleaning I use a small pick-type tool, like a steel dental pick, or a tiny screwdriver, to sorta squeeze the terminals down to give a tighter fit on the relay posts.


Cheers
DD

 

I removed the tray on the center of the dash just below the center vents. The material was rotted. I cleaned the plastic backing and recovered it with black suede. It looks fantastic. I actually screwed the tray housing back to the dash panel before putting in the recovered tray. I used a few very small dabs of black silicone to remount it. No visible hardware and easy to remove. I removed the upper door panel and removed the old dark blue cracked vinyl. The factory foam is still in great shape. I bought 2 yards of black Allante leather simulant to recover all 4 door panel tops. My main door panels are very nice so a clean up is all they need. I like the idea of two toning the door panels because the dash top runs into them. I also stripped my parts cars dash top to the bare steel shell. I bought 1/2" sew foam to spray glue to the shell before I wrap it in the black Allante. I will use spray foam on the low areas of the metal shell. When it dries, I will sand it till its even. This will keep the foam from showing low areas. Both my defroster vents have the plastic tabs broke off. I will drill 4 holes in each and use very tiny stainless allen button head bolts and nuts to reattach to the shell. Want to keep it stock appearing but break up the all blue door panels. I'd love to find a dark walnut factory shift knob. I think that really adds some detail. If someone has one, let me know.

 

Sounds great!

 

I have a dark walnut shifter knob but...you might be dissapointed, it's just black with very little grain showing, came off a 1986 V12 XJ-S Coupe that had all black-stained dash wood.

 

I installed new H-4 headlights to see better at night. Lots of white tail deer around these parts. Also installed a new grille badge.

 

What is the size of the two outer headlights?