Hi,

I have a 1983 Jaguar XJ6 (series 3) with AC issues. I know "shocker" lol. Anyways NONE of my blowers will kick on when I switch the fans on the dash. The clutch/compressor does engage and gives me no obvious reasons for issues their. As far as I know anyways. I have read the amps can be issues but not sure if that is my issue and or how to diagnose that problem.Any help on getting my car to blow any kind of air would be greatly appreciated!!


P.S. can some one please explain what I have here in the photos?? I know this is not the amp, but it has the same plug on top as the amp. Thanks!!!

 

In your hands: a more modern, revised replacement for the original square-ish amplifier.

No blowers: have you found and checked all four climate control fuses? I can't remember which of the four is for the blowers, but just check 'em all. Watch for corroded fuse and caps and clips, too

Cheers
DD

 

This might be useful

https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/x...basics-178058/

Cheers
DD

 

Ill check the in line fuses your very in depth description gave in the link. Thanks for helping ID that as a newer amp. I saw the old amp in the car still and got confused, but I guess it was left their since its a you know what to pull out. I have already replaced every fuse in the main boxes just as a preemptive strike for all my issues with the car. so that leaves the two in lines. I did see the one above this newer amp, so I only have to locate the fuse on the opposite side of the console in the passengers side. Will notify the result of this effort!

 

So All fuses were in great shape, and no corrosion. Still no blowers kicking on, but on the positive I did see the servos working in response to changing the temp knob because you told me about that fuse on the RH side! What would you recommend as the next plan of attack?

 

sounds like the large relay for the fans.

this relay has many wires connected to it, it is the first thing you see when you remove the vent panel.

try this: With engine running in PARK, set a/c switch to AUTO and temp switch to 65 degrees.

now press and wiggle every wire on the relay to see if there is any response. The one wire to check in particular, is the one at the center of the relay which is screwed to the terminal.

To tighten the screw if loose, you MUST disconnect the battery, or risk shorting other wiring.

 

So with all yall's help I believe I have a bad relay. Going to replace and retry. but other issue reared their head during my AC relay testing. car was idling great then just quit like I had turned off with the key. It then took more than wanted turn overs to get it to idle again. it idled great again for 10 min, then died in the same manner. So I probably will have to track down that issue then return to the AC after ordering a new relay.


Thanks for all the help!

 

now it sounds like a bad ignition switch.

start engine and observe ignition switch until engine dies, did the switch move back by itself?

how many keys do you have in the keychain? is it very heavy? that could be it.

 

would a bad ignition switch make it not want to actually run after the key is turned? I mean my engine keeps turning over as i turn the key to start, and I know i have fuel going to it, it just will not take off so to speak.

 

I was referring to the engine shutting off after running for 10 minutes.

if it shuts off by itself without showing symptoms of fuel starvation, or similar, just a clean shut down, it could be the ignition switch.

 

That's probably the best description of my issue engine shut off issue Jose. Ill probably need to test my ignition switch. I don't think its a key wieght issue as i only have the stock keys on the ring. Will not be able to get to it till tomorrow though so will post when i have a better idea. Its just odd that it only started doing this as soon as I started playing with the ac relay and not any other time earlier. Either way, thanks for the help!!

 

check the thick brown wire connnected to the relay at the center connector, this wire is connected with a screw, the only one with a screw, make sure it is tight, but disconnect the battery if tightening the screw, easy to cause a short with the screwdriver.

 

So I bleive the AC issue can be traced to a very internally correded and failing AC relay. New on is on order and in route so hope to fix that in a week.


Also,

I just found out from my Grandfather in-law (original Car owner) that the ignition coil on the car is the coil from the dealership in 1983......... So regardless if the engine shut off issue is the coil or not, I do believe its time for a replacement. Ill report when the new coil comes in next Tuesday or Wednesday and I can get it installed!

 

that large blowers relay contains 4 small relays inside, one for each speed. The wires connected from relay to relay are very thin and they break. Open it up and you will see.

 

I did, and they are all but gone. I had to remove a fair amount of corrosion first to even see that! oh well with a vehicle this old things like this are bound to happen.

 

once in the life of these cars you will need to remove each blower case which contains the blower motors, one case on each side, for inspection and cleaning.

the job is a p.i.t.a., Removing those cases is not easy, reinstalling them is even worse, the first reason is that the fan motors collect grime and dirt and become lazy and noisy.

The two vacuum-controlled flaps in each blower case have many plastic pins connecting metal linkages to each other. The plastic pins break as they age, this is the second reason for inspecting inside the blower case.

The third reason is that there are foam gaskets that seal each flap and those become goo if they don't dry out first

Once each case is cleaned and repaired where needed, it is a very satisfying job and the a/c and heater start to perform like new.

doing this job made me gain a lot of respect for the workers who assembled these cars. They had to do it on a time-per-car quota.

When I did it in my car, I removed the front seats for comfort while doing it.