1984 xj6
#81
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On the S1 you are talking about? I don't think that the modification is that difficult, just connect the lines from the tanks to a "T" connector, then out to one pump. I would put it back to stock, though. Some think that the second pump is one more thing to break, but I prefer to think of it as a built-in spare in case the other one dies.
All depends on how you look at it!
All depends on how you look at it!
![](https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/attachments/xj6-xj12-series-i-ii-iii-16/38238-1984-xj6-image_9021c80d-4fb1-4193-a7f9-6ca334544f32.jpg?dateline=1364919165)
#82
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My series 3 came with a similar cluster in the boot. Tanks come together into one T-fittting and then to the pump. i also do not see a transfer valve. On yours, it looks like the fuel cell just takes the place of the tanks in the wings. I wonder if that is because the wing tanks need work, or if they didnt want to mess with a problem in the system. Putting it back to stock may be more work than you think.
#83
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Ok, first successful repair has been made to my 1985 XJ6! (I'm new to auto repair and the only thing I've done prior to this was change my oil). I've installed the High Torque starter from The Driven Man and there is a 100% improvement to starting the car. Before I would sometimes have to crank the engine a couple of times before a successful start and then even when started I would have to keep my foot on the throttle for a minute or two to keep it running. Now BAM! starts on first turn and idles perfectly.
Now my next project, I need to replace all bushings as the ones that are on the car seem to be the original ones and are disintegrating.
Question: Where can I buy a polyurethane bushings?
Now my next project, I need to replace all bushings as the ones that are on the car seem to be the original ones and are disintegrating.
Question: Where can I buy a polyurethane bushings?
#84
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Question: Where can I buy a polyurethane bushings
This guy seems to have them ALL !
Poly bushes for Jaguar and Daimler - SC Parts - Poly bushes for Jaguar and Daimler
And a US supplier here: -
http://www.v12s.com/polyxjscc.html
You can lose a lot of the refinement by fitting these.
Last edited by Fraser Mitchell; 04-13-2013 at 04:40 PM.
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Paratrooper54 (04-13-2013)
#85
#86
#87
#88
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I wonder what the $7000 covered .. Solid body and interior your way ahead . I'd start looking for parts at "everydayxj". Also eBay. Parts mostly available. This is a great site for info . These guys have walked me thru several fixes on my 86 xj6. I've found it to b a very pleasurable driver and surprising head turner. Enjoy
#89
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So I received my 1972 XJ6 and find that it needs AAAAAA LOOOTTTT of work. Going to wait for it to stop snowing to determine how much work is required. But I do love the body style and will work on it myself. One of the first major upgrade is to work on the Carbs as I think that's the most important being that I'm in Colorado and I think the altitude will affect drivability over everything else.
Question is: Which carb upgrade will work best and is most versatile when dealing with changing altitudes?
Question is: Which carb upgrade will work best and is most versatile when dealing with changing altitudes?
#90
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Interesting. Post up some photos and more details on the '72 in a separate thread!
As for the carbs, you can see my thread on the same topic. When it comes to carburetors, it is often best to start with the type you already know and love (if you, in fact, already know and love a particular type of carb). THose raised on American cars and carbs often prefer Weber downdrafts, while those who learned on British cars often prefer SUs.
In the end, the best idea is to make sure that whatever carbs you have are in good condition and working properly. There is nothing wrong with the Strombergs, in and of themselves, but the manifold and dual throttle arrangement is a bit wonky. I personally prefer SUs to the Strombergs, but I know better than to claim it's a purely objective preference. My reasons are:
The BEST thing you can do is to send the distributor off to Jeff at Advanced Distributors and have him rebuild the distributor and convert it to Vacuum advance from vacuum retard.
Tom
As for the carbs, you can see my thread on the same topic. When it comes to carburetors, it is often best to start with the type you already know and love (if you, in fact, already know and love a particular type of carb). THose raised on American cars and carbs often prefer Weber downdrafts, while those who learned on British cars often prefer SUs.
In the end, the best idea is to make sure that whatever carbs you have are in good condition and working properly. There is nothing wrong with the Strombergs, in and of themselves, but the manifold and dual throttle arrangement is a bit wonky. I personally prefer SUs to the Strombergs, but I know better than to claim it's a purely objective preference. My reasons are:
- Strombergs are FAR more complicated than SUs (or at least it seems this way due to #2).
- I am FAR more familiar with SUs, where I barely know anything about Strombergs.
- I come from the MGB community, where Strombergs are generally disliked because the later, emissions-strangled cars were fitted with single Strombergs (instead of dual SUs).
The BEST thing you can do is to send the distributor off to Jeff at Advanced Distributors and have him rebuild the distributor and convert it to Vacuum advance from vacuum retard.
Tom
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Paratrooper54 (04-18-2013)
#91
#92
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Glad to help if I can. Do be aware that, if your friend is used to American style carburetors, such as a QuadraJet on a Chevy 350, he is unlikely to know all that much more about a pair of Strombergs than you are. Generally, those that know and love common American setups just start pulling their hair out the first time they see the funny-looking dual British setup and blame every single problem the car has on them.
The proper process for tuning the car is:
Good luck!
Tom
The proper process for tuning the car is:
- Verify the Ignition system is working properly (cap, rotor, wires, plugs, timing).
- Verify that the Intake and Emissions Equipment are also properly working (no vacuum leaks, etc).
- Tune the carburetors.
Good luck!
Tom
Last edited by trymes; 04-18-2013 at 03:22 PM.
#93
#94
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I would stay right away from automatic chokes. Most people are trying to go back the other way! Your car should already have the cables for the manual choke, and there's nothing that works better.
Watch these videos, if you haven't already. Part 3 gives you a good idea of the complexity of the automatic choke, and why people avoid them.
Tom
Watch these videos, if you haven't already. Part 3 gives you a good idea of the complexity of the automatic choke, and why people avoid them.
Tom
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Ahabiam (04-18-2013),
Paratrooper54 (04-18-2013)
#96
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Well I got the wood trim/dash all removed from my 1985 XJ6 and getting it swapped with a brand new set from those good boys at Myrtle. One problem...errr I forgot to label the wires so when I go to reinstall the trim I am scrreeewwwweeeddd. Is there a picture diagram where the wires hook up to?
#97
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#98
#99
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PT54 (What's your name, anyway?): I know what you mean, but past experience has shown me that threads like this become more cumbersome than you expect, and actually make it harder to find the information you are looking for. More importantly, as time goes on, only those people (like me) who are already participating in the thread will chime in, as others just aren't likely to invest the time to read it all. This means you'll get fewer good opinions and ideas. In the end, more, shorter, well titled threads will get you the best results.
Either way, if you haven't seen this information on Stromberg Carburetors, you should take a look: TR250/TR6 Carbs Part I
Tom
Either way, if you haven't seen this information on Stromberg Carburetors, you should take a look: TR250/TR6 Carbs Part I
Tom
#100
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Hi, I am new to the jag scene. I have a 88 Jaguar XJ6 which will not start. the engine turns and there is spark but not fuel. We even put power to the petrol pump but would still not start. I was wondering could anyone advise me to where the fuel cut-off switch is on this model if there is one? Apart from that we have no clue what to try next. any help would be much appreciated.