1985 jaguar xj6 door lock trouble
#1
#2
Join Date: Mar 2008
Location: Pacific Northwest USA
Posts: 24,888
Received 10,944 Likes
on
7,190 Posts
1985 was the changeover year from the Lucas solenoid locks to the Kiekert motorized locks. Since yours is a late build it probably has the Kiekert system.
So.....
In the area of the RH fuse panel, below the glove box (assuming LH Drive), look for an inline fuse holder with brown and brown/blue wires. Check the fuse and the contacts inside the fuse holder.
If that's OK (or you can't find such a fuse), post back
Cheers
DD
So.....
In the area of the RH fuse panel, below the glove box (assuming LH Drive), look for an inline fuse holder with brown and brown/blue wires. Check the fuse and the contacts inside the fuse holder.
If that's OK (or you can't find such a fuse), post back
Cheers
DD
#3
The 15A fuse was blown and I replaced it, the doors still do not lock when I lock the driver door I hear what sounds like the ticking of a clock inside the door. Am I right to assume there is a relay in the door that is opening and closing?
Last edited by Christian2; 10-04-2019 at 09:39 PM.
#4
Join Date: Mar 2008
Location: Pacific Northwest USA
Posts: 24,888
Received 10,944 Likes
on
7,190 Posts
Not a relay as such but a control unit. It takes the mechanical motion of turning the door lock (or operating the lock paddle inside the car) and turns it into an electric pulse to operate the lock motors in the other doors and trunk lid.
In your case the control unit might have failed, or the lock linkages might need lubricating on all the doors....which amazingly often brings a dead system back to life.
Cheers
DD
In your case the control unit might have failed, or the lock linkages might need lubricating on all the doors....which amazingly often brings a dead system back to life.
Cheers
DD
#5
#6
Join Date: Mar 2008
Location: Pacific Northwest USA
Posts: 24,888
Received 10,944 Likes
on
7,190 Posts
#7
Trending Topics
#8
The VDP door panels are covered with leather and the standard are vinyl covered. While we are waiting for VDP specific instructions I'll offer up the standard interior procedure. Others, feel free to correct me or add clarification.
Step 1. Use a flat blade screwdriver and very carefully pry up the chrome trim ring around the top of the door pull. Then, under there you will see a big screw. Remove that.
Step 2. Using the heel of your hand, strike the underside of the door cubby box. There are little mushroom shaped studs that fit into keyhole shaped holes in the door. Don't recall if you hit up or forward; I usually hit up and forward at 45 degrees and it will come loose and then you wiggle it around and the it will come out and the box/door pull assembly will lift off. Be careful not to snag anything when working the box loose.
Step 3. The panel itself is held on by little plastic clips like the ones used on almost every car brand. They are shaped like little Christmas trees. You can pry them out with a screwdriver but you will probably mess up the cardboard in there. Buy a door trim prying tool - I got one at AutoZone for $10. It has a "Y" shaped tip that stradles the plastic fastener and provides even pressure and they pop right out.
Step 4. After all the clips are pulled out grasp the door card and wiggle it. The early models it pulls out from under the window sill piece. The later ones the panel goes all the way up to the glass.
Hopefully a VDP expert will jump in soon and give more specific instructions.
Jeff
Step 1. Use a flat blade screwdriver and very carefully pry up the chrome trim ring around the top of the door pull. Then, under there you will see a big screw. Remove that.
Step 2. Using the heel of your hand, strike the underside of the door cubby box. There are little mushroom shaped studs that fit into keyhole shaped holes in the door. Don't recall if you hit up or forward; I usually hit up and forward at 45 degrees and it will come loose and then you wiggle it around and the it will come out and the box/door pull assembly will lift off. Be careful not to snag anything when working the box loose.
Step 3. The panel itself is held on by little plastic clips like the ones used on almost every car brand. They are shaped like little Christmas trees. You can pry them out with a screwdriver but you will probably mess up the cardboard in there. Buy a door trim prying tool - I got one at AutoZone for $10. It has a "Y" shaped tip that stradles the plastic fastener and provides even pressure and they pop right out.
Step 4. After all the clips are pulled out grasp the door card and wiggle it. The early models it pulls out from under the window sill piece. The later ones the panel goes all the way up to the glass.
Hopefully a VDP expert will jump in soon and give more specific instructions.
Jeff
The following users liked this post:
Doug (10-05-2019)
#9
Join Date: Mar 2008
Location: Pacific Northwest USA
Posts: 24,888
Received 10,944 Likes
on
7,190 Posts
Version 1: Lucas system with solenoids, central locking form both front doors
Version 2: Lucas system with solenoids, central locking from driver's door only
Version 3: Kiekert system with motors, central locking from driver's door only
Version 2 appeared circa 1983
Version 3 appeared late 1985
Cheers
DD
#10
I was able to get the door panels off.The driver lock sensor was making that clicking noise and did not sound right, I have replaced it with a known good one. The locks are still in operative. But I do have the latest system. After removing additional door panels and lining them up they still are not working. Is there any additional fueses or relays I’m missing?
#11
#12
Join Date: Mar 2008
Location: Pacific Northwest USA
Posts: 24,888
Received 10,944 Likes
on
7,190 Posts
And, yes, you have the Kiekert system
I have read that there are some relays inside the A-pillars, could these be stuck?
The Lucas system has those relays. Your Kiekert system does not.
Cheers
DD
#13
Join Date: Mar 2008
Location: Pacific Northwest USA
Posts: 24,888
Received 10,944 Likes
on
7,190 Posts
Are you getting any sounds or movement from the other doors? Or total nothing?
Do you have a test light or meter? It would be helpful at this point
If you're getting absolutely nothing the harness connector that joins the control unit to the rest of the system may have separated. I've seen a couple of these. The connector is in the driver's side footwell area but I can't remember the exact location. You'd have to trace the wires from the door jamb area into the footwell
Cheers
DD
#14
I do have a power probe that connects to the battery and I can apply power and/or ground. I do get the clicking of a relay in the door when I lock/unlock the driver door as well, but no movement from any doors or the trunk, the actuators do move freely and are not seized up.
Last edited by Christian2; 10-05-2019 at 12:21 PM.
#15
#17
Join Date: Mar 2008
Location: Pacific Northwest USA
Posts: 24,888
Received 10,944 Likes
on
7,190 Posts
#18
Hi Christian, I had a similar problem with my S3 Sovereign but with only 1 door. I got clicking but no locking. In the end I removed the actual lock and gave it a good clean up and lube. Now that one works the easiest so the rest are scheduled for the same treatment as I make my way around the car replacing the door panels. It's a fairly easy thing to do and a reasonably fast job.
Con
Con
#19