1985 xj6 Rear brake pad replacement
#1
1985 xj6 Rear brake pad replacement
Other than replacing the front brake pads on my honda civic, I am a total newbie and need help replacing the 86 xj6 rear brake pads.
I realize that replacing the rotors/ calipers is a task out of my league at this point so I decided to simply replace the rear brake pads. (one side is rubbing against the rotor metal to metal)
Are there any special tools that I will need (box wrench?) ? Is it more or less self explanatory once I get under the car?
Thanks!
John
I realize that replacing the rotors/ calipers is a task out of my league at this point so I decided to simply replace the rear brake pads. (one side is rubbing against the rotor metal to metal)
Are there any special tools that I will need (box wrench?) ? Is it more or less self explanatory once I get under the car?
Thanks!
John
#2
Rear pads are held in with clevis pins. The clevis pin are held in with reusable cotter pins which tend to fly off when removed. Lowes has replacements.
Once the pins are removed the pads can be pried on a bit to recess the caliper pistons and then the pads should side out easily.
If the pistons wont recess or if one pad is significantly more worn than the other you need replacement or rebuilt rear calipers and perhaps a differential reseal. Often this is the case. Differential oil leaks from the side bearing seals on to the brake disk surface which contaminates the disk and the pad to the point where no brake pad wear occurs so the inner caliper piston never moves and basically rusts in place and results is poor brake performance and spongy pedal feel.
Once the pins are removed the pads can be pried on a bit to recess the caliper pistons and then the pads should side out easily.
If the pistons wont recess or if one pad is significantly more worn than the other you need replacement or rebuilt rear calipers and perhaps a differential reseal. Often this is the case. Differential oil leaks from the side bearing seals on to the brake disk surface which contaminates the disk and the pad to the point where no brake pad wear occurs so the inner caliper piston never moves and basically rusts in place and results is poor brake performance and spongy pedal feel.
#3
Thanks for the response. I think I am having the exact scenario that you described.
The outer right rear brake pad was completely gone. The left side is even and the pads look like the same as the right inner pad.
I did not put in the new brakes because the C clasp I have to push the piston back did not fit the Jag, so I need something more compact.
I think I am simply going to replace the brakes just to get the car back on the road and deal with rebuilding the calipers later since it is a pain in the ***. (assuming that I need to drop the rear axle to get the calipers out).
One last question the rubber around the pistons is breaking off, is that a serious issue?
The outer right rear brake pad was completely gone. The left side is even and the pads look like the same as the right inner pad.
I did not put in the new brakes because the C clasp I have to push the piston back did not fit the Jag, so I need something more compact.
I think I am simply going to replace the brakes just to get the car back on the road and deal with rebuilding the calipers later since it is a pain in the ***. (assuming that I need to drop the rear axle to get the calipers out).
One last question the rubber around the pistons is breaking off, is that a serious issue?
#5
The deteriorated rubber is probably partly the cause problem of uneven pad wear, as stated, it will allow moisture in, then rusting the piston to the caliper housing not allowing it to move.
The ideal solution would be to rebuild (or replace) both rear calipers so they operate correclty.
However if thats out of the question, at least make sure there is no brake fluid leaks evident.
Do keep in mind that your braking power is currently diminished and factor that in whilst driving behind other vehicles
The ideal solution would be to rebuild (or replace) both rear calipers so they operate correclty.
However if thats out of the question, at least make sure there is no brake fluid leaks evident.
Do keep in mind that your braking power is currently diminished and factor that in whilst driving behind other vehicles
#6
I hired out the task of changing the rear calipers in my car. I'm past my prime for up and down under the things.
I did change the pads in the front. Not that hard. The pins on which the pads slide and the keepers as well as some springs to deter rattle are a bit fiddly and easily lost. Keep a tin handy to put them in as you remove them. They will be crusty and in need of cleaning up.
I used a pair of 'retired" big screw drivers of the flat blade variety to lever the pistons back into a retract position. Just enuogh to free the pads.
The ways in the calipers in which the pads slide will be grungy. Clean them out.
Just a td of wheel bearing grease in the ways and on the pins to encourage the pads to slide evenly will help. Not too much. Grease on the friction surface is a no-no.
My pads were just a tad oversize. I ground them aon the dges just a tad to get a smooth free fit with no bind.
Bed them in gently during the first few miles to avoid warping and glazing.
Oh, the rotors are likely glazed. Unless they are scored, they will do just fine. scuff them with emery paper to break the glaze.
A lot easier than shoes, especialy the rears with the odd hand brake assembly.
Although Jaguar rear hand brake assemblies top them all as to weirdness.
Carl
I did change the pads in the front. Not that hard. The pins on which the pads slide and the keepers as well as some springs to deter rattle are a bit fiddly and easily lost. Keep a tin handy to put them in as you remove them. They will be crusty and in need of cleaning up.
I used a pair of 'retired" big screw drivers of the flat blade variety to lever the pistons back into a retract position. Just enuogh to free the pads.
The ways in the calipers in which the pads slide will be grungy. Clean them out.
Just a td of wheel bearing grease in the ways and on the pins to encourage the pads to slide evenly will help. Not too much. Grease on the friction surface is a no-no.
My pads were just a tad oversize. I ground them aon the dges just a tad to get a smooth free fit with no bind.
Bed them in gently during the first few miles to avoid warping and glazing.
Oh, the rotors are likely glazed. Unless they are scored, they will do just fine. scuff them with emery paper to break the glaze.
A lot easier than shoes, especialy the rears with the odd hand brake assembly.
Although Jaguar rear hand brake assemblies top them all as to weirdness.
Carl
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