First application of POR-15 on the wings. I like the stuff, its pretty thick, it dries quick, and it dries hard. you can tell this will be an ideal coating. The only problem for me is that it is way too glossy. I need to go back and sand some more too, it goes on easy - but it did run on me. I will clean it up - and then go with a flat topcoat. I dont like this much gloss...

 

I think the gloss will help to keep it clean, unlike flat which is a rougher finish, gloss is smooth. How about just spraying the POR-15 with SEMI-0GLOSS?

 

 

 

 

 

Sorry it’s been awhile, but this takes time. Way more corrosion than I originally saw – no holes though – just surface rust from where the weatherproofing failed. A lot of sanding, cleaning, etc. I’ve been a mess after Jag work for the last few weekends. But, I have made progress and I don’t believe I will have any further corrosion issues in the near future. The POR-15 covers well, and it’s tough stuff. The transmission tunnel near the bottom of the frame rails was bad. I think I ate about 4 lbs. of rust during the process. I removed the fuel lines from the frame – and the brake line on the driver’s side and sanded, prepped, and cleaned the frame. Then reinstalled the lines with new clamp hardware. The fiberglass cowl in the trans tunnel I removed and painted. I couldn’t find a grey I liked to work with in the same color, so it is a bit darker. On the wings the POR15 was too dark and glossy and I experimented with a few different topcoats until I settled on this one. It is supposed to be a satin black with speckles. It turned out more like a flat black. You can’t see the speckles. Regardless, it looks decent – and way better condition than I found it in. The Master Cylinder booster/Servo was sitting in leaking brake fluid for a few years. I needed to pull that off to sand the old finish off. And when I disconnected the master, got distracted, and pulled the wrong pin, which caused the return spring in the pedal box to dislodge. I spent way too much time trying to get the spring back in position on the car. I ended up pulling the entire pedal box, cleaning and lubing, and then reinstalling with the servo on it – as the manual tells you to anyway. That blew a Saturday. I ended up polishing the pedal box a bit, and then painting the servo. I couldn’t resist a bit of hot rod red… How often to you pull a servo unit. I figured I wanted something to show for it. I think when it’s all done it will be a nice touch. The master cylinder was just shot. It had been leaking for years, was covered in rust internally, and I was not certain if I could hone the damage out. I just replaced it. I also pulled apart the cruise control bellows – the bellows was all cracked – put a new one on – polished the housing some, and painted the bracket. Also removed the brake lines – flushed those out and polished the ends for easier reassembly. The wing mounted fuse box was removed and the wiring behind it cleaned and checked. And the vacuum tank behind the master servo – I pulled that out to clean the wing out – I ended up painting that too – and replaced the vacuum line while I was in there. Next weekend – hopefully I can start on the passenger side wing – reconnect all the wiring – go through the harnesses, etc. Slow – but steady progress.

 

YOU're a hero. I know how long this stuff takes ! Car looks really lovely. Not sure about a red servo tank, though.

 

man I agree! I'm afraid we have an undiscovered restorer here! I actually like that red booster.

The torque bars should be red too! I mean, black and silver are fine but a bit on the bland side. After, all there are two Red relays in the engine compartment, might as well match them to some other hardware.

definitely the flatter coating looks more pro than the gloss.

 

 

 

Was not able to spend as much time as I wanted in the garage, but I was able to get the engine mounts back in position, as well as the passenger wing harnesse(s). Next weekend I will change the heater valve, get the main relays back on the firewall after a good cleaning. Then (Depending on $$ cash situation) I will either move to the front suspension and brake work - OR - pull the gas tanks...

 

getting to the heater valve nuts inside the air intake requires removing the plastic intake grille. Be careful prying the grille because one of the two pins will break if you raise one side too much.

I have found out that instead of trying to pry it out with a putty knife or screwdriver, (which might scratch the paint), it's better to slide fishing wire or waxed nylon string, even flossing string tripled between both hands, under each end of the grille until you hit a "stop". and then you gently pull it a little bit on one side, then a little bit on the other side, until both pins are released. The pns go into a rubber anchor which is smaller diameter than the plastic pin, so it is held very tight.

the work is looking fabulous.

 

 

 

 

Anybody out there still interested - the process is still underway. It is that time of the year, finances are tight, time is limited, and it is chilly in the garage. However, I have been saving green, and buying some parts, and finally was able to spend some additional quality time with the Jag.

* New Upper and Lower Ball Joints.
* New Upper and Lower Control Arm Bushings.
* New Brake Lines.
* Rebuilt both calipers and painted. (Ceramic Caliper Paint.)
* Saved up and bought a new rack and installed.
* New poly bushings in rack.
* Spring for some slotted and drilled rotors.
* New semi-metallic brake pads.
* New Wheel Bearings and Races for both front.
* Fresh Tye-Rod Ends to go with the rack.

I am waiting on a few more pieces as well. I would like to upgrade the forward sway bar, and need to change the bushings anyway. I have a line on one, just need to wait until after the holidays to pay for it. I left the stock shocks in place as well - for now. It turns out I can buy a completed set (FWD and REAR) cheaper than a pair at a time, so I will work on this too.

Of everything I have done so far - pulling the front springs to get the lower control arms off was the worst. Actually - putting them back in. I did not have the cash to buy the "Proper" tool and it took three times longer "engineering" a fit with both inner and outer spring compressors. I really hope I will NOT be doing that job again soon...