With some movers pallets I was able to get it out and under on my own, with no damage. These shots are after 30 minutes of high pressure wash with degreaser. Caliper on the right is newer. I assume the PO had this changed out at some point. The pads look new, and the rotor disk is not stock. Its even a little cleaner. Now, the Left - that is stock. The pads on this side are down to the metal, the rotor disk as well is in rough shape. Both are off now, and due to the pitting I can see on the pucks - I can only imagine the bores are as bad as the front were. I will be looking for rebuilt calipers. I even found the ID Tag after much degreasing.
Ill be working this until I get my tanks back...
I will also drop the insulation above the final drive and check all the fuel lines underneath.

 

Still working. I am still looking for the best deals on shocks and brake calipers. And still saving up for what appears to be a large purchase. However, I was able to get the tanks back in. The passenger side still has the drain out as I had to backorder the internal filter. Nobody has that locally. Otherwise, they are hung - just need new fuel line to the pump. New O-rings in the necks as well. I coated the top of the wing - under the fuel filler assy with POR15 to ensure no rust grows. Both vent lines replaced as well. Very happy to have the tanks just about wrapped up. While waiting on funds for the shocks and brakes I have removed both of the undercarriage protection guards - above the final drive. One needs a minor repair - has a hole worn into it from the exhaust. Both are blasted off, and one is painted. I will finish the other this weekend. So far I have blasted the final drive twice with 2 different types of degreaser. It is coming off, but I suspect a few more tries to get it somewhat clean enough to detail.

 

I think Coventry West has about the best deals on rebuilt calipers...
And you'll likely find the best pricing on the rear shocks at Terry's...
(You may have to call or email them to get a quote)..

Looking good!

Did you ever get that engine installed?

Cheers,
David
Everyday XJ

 

Ditto:

Replacing one ut not the other rear caliper is just weird. That is as kind as I can put it.

I shopped arund for rebuilt rear calipers for my XJ wuzza six last summer. Most were within a few bucks of the other. But, Rockauto was having a close out. I saved a couple of bucks. But, the clincher was no core deposit or return involved.
Nice looking work, top quality pads and I am pleased. I was going to change them out myuself. But, "chickened" out and farmed it out. Done. All is well.
New hand brake pads as well.

Carl

 

Good for you. I always found the hand brake pads a pain to do as well as the safetly wiring. Did not mind doing the rest of the job though.

 

Dave - My donor engine is still on the engine stand waiting. But, hopefully not too much longer. Once I have the final drive back in position, then I will get the Borg Warner looked at, and THEN in goes the engine. Or at least - that is the current plan.

At this point - I can get new rear calipers through my local auto store for 83 each - and I give them my cores. I have not found anything better. I am stuck on the shocks. E-bay no Jag cheapo's are 35 each. I would really rather not go with a no name on this item, but wow - original BOGE's are 75/80 each... The KONI are 125 each... I have never paid so much for shocks on anything - ever. Still looking before I pull the trigger, thats a lot of scratch.

Any thoughts on ceramic pads? Standard Jag pads are plentiful. I also already have the rotors. I am wondering what real benefit upgrading the pads will supply if anything. I would assume that the ceramics would last longer being submerged in standard final drive heat and diff oil? On the other hand, beyond the obvious - the pads I removed seemed to hold up OK. I dont mind the extra as long as I can determine the benefit.....?

 

I once put on a set of JoNoname shocks on a Series 3 I had for 14 years, (1988-2002). They lasted about 18 months. So then I put on a decent set at more money, and they were still on the car when I sold it about 7 years later. Of course, because there are four needed, the cost gets a bit high, compared to cars with just two. If you can get BOGES and KONI originals at those US dollar prices then you're doing well, most I see are the same figure but in GB pounds.

 

I agree with that advice. Still, I am curious - what kind of failure did you see on the cheap shocks? With 4 of them, and pretty robust springs, can you tell when they are on the way out? Or are we talking damage or obvious leaks?

 

Final drive surrounds removed, cleaned, sanded, painted, and now reinstalled. While they were out I replaced various missing clamps for the fuel lines underneath, and added some additonal safeties to ensure they will remain in good shape. Still working on the muffler panels, they will need some repair. Its not like anybody will see these - but I dont want them falling apart either.

 

Basically, they leak and stop working, sometimes with squeaking noises, too ! There is a lot of cr*p out there, I'm afraid.

Other thing to bear in mind is that the Series 3 and earlier cars are now very old, so the shocks are now a bit "specialist", so cost more nowadays. The rears especially so, as they have to have provision for the spring like a motorcyle unit.

 

Great job on restoring the car. When you have the transmission serviced, get them to install the torque converter and strap it in place. If it is not pushed all the way home, it will destroy the primary pump. With the new motor, change front and rear oil seals, there is a kit available to change rear oil seal from asbestos rope to rubber. When replacing the cam covers, anneal all the little brass washers, this should stop the leaks, don't be tempted to use steel washers. Change the valve stem seals, I think they are inlet only.

 

I found a complete set - front and rear - Boge shocks for the series III for under 300 bucks!
I am not so patiently waiting on my UPS guy to show up with my new shockers!

 

Wow! That's a screamin' deal! Since I'll be needing rears ASAP, I certainly wouldn't mind replacing all of them at once. Care to share where you ordered them from?

 

JB - I am on a very tight budget as well. I have been looking, looking, all over for a decent quality to price ratio. In short, and also from what I saw on the forums - the Billstein is considered the "Best" for performance. However, the BOGE's are considered - stock - and satisfactory. Billsteins are way out of my price range. Boge too - however this place HAD a deal for me and I snagged it. I paid 265 for a complete set. However - now - they are asking 365 for the complete set. NOT as good as my find - but still very respectable for brand new boge shocks special fit for the the series I.II, and III Jags.

Shocks Parts for Jaguar

In case the link does not work - empirebritishcarparts.com

 

Quick question?
I received my Boge's on Friday. I of course ripped into the box. I noted right away that 2 of the 4 rear units have some oil on them. Not much, not gushing, but more than a drop. One of the two has enough to stream down 1/2 on the body of the shock .
Of all of the units I have purchased I dont recall ever opening any boxes and seeing oil on the shock.

Do I need to return these?
Anybody have experience in this area?
I will post some pics tomm.

Thanks.

 

Since these are a gas filled shock, and I would assume that any leak would be fairly catastrophic to the function of the unit - I would see more fluid? I am in contact with the vendor - waiting on word from BOGE on what this is... A faulty item - or normal... I noticed as well the inside of the card board boxes that these two came in have small oil stains. Unfortunatly, until I am certain these either need to be replaced - or are OK to install, this will slow down my weekend plans. (&*())&*&**

 

I was able to contact the vendor who took back the two leaking BOGE's with no problem at all. Just recieved two new ones - no leaks. I am looking to use the old rotors to help compress the springs to transfer them to the new shocks, so I dug into the final drive and removed them. I noted what I believe to be leaks at the oil seals. So they came off too. The pics do not show this too well, but it appears that the right side became very HOT. More then likely the cause of the mismatch caliper and rotor on that side. The spacers for the alignment are all dis-colored in comparison to the left side. While I am here - I will change out the seals. Waiting on parts now. New brake calipers are ready to go, and picked up some ceramic pads for the rear. Hopefully, I can make some more progress this weekend and get the final drive back together.

 

The U-joints all appear to be tight, and beefy. I dont think I see a need to replace them? I have removed all the zerks and have them soaking. I will check each one to ensure they take grease. Otherwise, I am thinking I will leave them be. From what I have read, failure of these joints is not very common.

 

You've got a real nice project, It's looks great.
Keep up the good work.

 

New BOGE's ready to go. Made up a rig to get the springs off and on with no medical trauma associated to my person. Stripped and painted the springs. Reassembled the lot with new cups and retainers. Changed the oil seals in both axles. Next - the hubs come off for inspection and cleaning.