1987 Jaguar XJ6
#41
I hope I'm not sending you on "snipe huts", but I've two ideas that may or may not fix your oil leak, but will improve your car.
1. I was a bit aghast at the messy smear of too much gasket "sealer" under the rear of the cam cover in one of your pictures. Fix. Two new gaskets. And "half moon seals". Check the sealing surfaces, both on then head and the cover. Fix or get better covers if necessary. Clean and detail. They sure look even better then. Incentive increased and might fix the leak. High gain, little or no risk.
2. There is a dome up front. It is apart of the crankcase ventilation system. As you mentioned, excess crankcase pressure can exacerbate a minor seep to a fair sized one. Is that the root cause here, probably not. Will it help, oh yeah. It has probably been neglected. That dome is referred to as a thimble. It has a filter of some type. They clog with "gunk". Clean and make sure the lines flow well. Usually needed in the care and maintenance of these critters.
As to the AC, if the clutch is deprived of power, it can not engage and spin the compressor. Mine is dormant via that means at present. My fix just doesn't seem to get to the top of my task/priority list.
Very nice find. Definitely worth getting it in order.
My Passat project is moving along. All disassembly done. Ready to start putting it together. It's NGK multi spark plugs looked awful. I hope the new NGK conventional tipped plugs live better in that environment
My Jeep project stalled. My efforts to remove fuel from the tank via a siphon method have failed. Can't even get the hose wet!!! More thinking nd research in order. Naaah, it would take days or just letting it idle and run out of gas !!!!!! It used to be so simple to siphon gas.....
Carl
Carl
1. I was a bit aghast at the messy smear of too much gasket "sealer" under the rear of the cam cover in one of your pictures. Fix. Two new gaskets. And "half moon seals". Check the sealing surfaces, both on then head and the cover. Fix or get better covers if necessary. Clean and detail. They sure look even better then. Incentive increased and might fix the leak. High gain, little or no risk.
2. There is a dome up front. It is apart of the crankcase ventilation system. As you mentioned, excess crankcase pressure can exacerbate a minor seep to a fair sized one. Is that the root cause here, probably not. Will it help, oh yeah. It has probably been neglected. That dome is referred to as a thimble. It has a filter of some type. They clog with "gunk". Clean and make sure the lines flow well. Usually needed in the care and maintenance of these critters.
As to the AC, if the clutch is deprived of power, it can not engage and spin the compressor. Mine is dormant via that means at present. My fix just doesn't seem to get to the top of my task/priority list.
Very nice find. Definitely worth getting it in order.
My Passat project is moving along. All disassembly done. Ready to start putting it together. It's NGK multi spark plugs looked awful. I hope the new NGK conventional tipped plugs live better in that environment
My Jeep project stalled. My efforts to remove fuel from the tank via a siphon method have failed. Can't even get the hose wet!!! More thinking nd research in order. Naaah, it would take days or just letting it idle and run out of gas !!!!!! It used to be so simple to siphon gas.....
Carl
Carl
Modern VW’s are a make I wont mess with, my mother had one, and the ECU’s in those things are just too much to want to deal with.
I agree with the gasket sealer on the valve covers. The first thing I did the day I got the car home was buy a rebuild kit for the transmission, and a full gasket set for the engine, ill just have to dig through the packages and find them. May be todays project to clean the covers up and re-attach them.
This dome up front, im not familiar with, im sure it stands out though. Just remove it and clean it? Any risk of oil going everywhere during removal?
#42
it is called the Engine Breather.
i do not think you would get a leak of engine oil through it.
what color is the oil that leaked? golden or white/clear?
if white/clear, it is not engine oil, it is probably PAG oil from the a/c compressor or a burst a/c hose. If the system was converted to R134a, the higher pressure of R134a is known to burst hoses.
i do not think you would get a leak of engine oil through it.
what color is the oil that leaked? golden or white/clear?
if white/clear, it is not engine oil, it is probably PAG oil from the a/c compressor or a burst a/c hose. If the system was converted to R134a, the higher pressure of R134a is known to burst hoses.
#43
She doesn't look half bad washed up.
Windshield rust.
A dent we started pulling out on the driver side.
Slight misalignment here
Overall pretty though!
So this was the bad rust spot, long strip rusted all the way through. We sanded down, patched with fiberglass, and are still in the process of shaping body filler.
Rear window seal cutting the corner. Everything seems very typical rust wise.
I'm still standing by the fact the car was only 500$
We have the new wood for the dash and doors, and a few other interior pieces we haven't started on yet.
Removed the rear door panel to just take look at the inside of the door. This particular doors window won't roll down, kinda acting like it isent getting power. And the driver side rear door won't open, I intend on removing the door panel on that side and pulling the mechanism from inside the door to open it.
so cleaned up today and took her out for a ride. We drove around the block several times, got the car up to 40mph, and all was well. The only oil issue we have had now is oil coming out of the filler cap on the valve covers. Sometime this weekend we are going to head the advice and clean up the top end, and put new gaskets in to replace the ugly orange sealer.
Windshield rust.
A dent we started pulling out on the driver side.
Slight misalignment here
Overall pretty though!
So this was the bad rust spot, long strip rusted all the way through. We sanded down, patched with fiberglass, and are still in the process of shaping body filler.
Rear window seal cutting the corner. Everything seems very typical rust wise.
I'm still standing by the fact the car was only 500$
We have the new wood for the dash and doors, and a few other interior pieces we haven't started on yet.
Removed the rear door panel to just take look at the inside of the door. This particular doors window won't roll down, kinda acting like it isent getting power. And the driver side rear door won't open, I intend on removing the door panel on that side and pulling the mechanism from inside the door to open it.
so cleaned up today and took her out for a ride. We drove around the block several times, got the car up to 40mph, and all was well. The only oil issue we have had now is oil coming out of the filler cap on the valve covers. Sometime this weekend we are going to head the advice and clean up the top end, and put new gaskets in to replace the ugly orange sealer.
Last edited by Rouxx; 04-06-2017 at 11:13 PM.
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Dutch-Cat (04-07-2017)
#44
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#45
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OOOOOH, the rust monster has taken some deep bites.
1. I'd durn near bet, but, I'm not a good gambler, that the window issue is in the switches found on the console. An almost easy task to open th4e console, pop out the rocker switches, open them and clean them. Detailed instructions in the archives.
2. Why are the driver door and LF wing trying to occupy the same space at the same time. An ugly crunch. I should talk, mine is a tad worse, the result of a misadventure by me I'd rather forget....
3. But, Elinor sure has it right. A running car that drives and looks decent for $500.
What a deal.
Carl
1. I'd durn near bet, but, I'm not a good gambler, that the window issue is in the switches found on the console. An almost easy task to open th4e console, pop out the rocker switches, open them and clean them. Detailed instructions in the archives.
2. Why are the driver door and LF wing trying to occupy the same space at the same time. An ugly crunch. I should talk, mine is a tad worse, the result of a misadventure by me I'd rather forget....
3. But, Elinor sure has it right. A running car that drives and looks decent for $500.
What a deal.
Carl
#46
Yup, almost identical rust damage like on mine....
Do yourself the favour and cut out the windscreen and rear window.
Yes, they are glued in...
They will be just barely hanging on to the rust in the frames....
Luckily the metal is pretty thick, so most of the rust can be brushed out with a metal rotating brush. The holes can be patched fairly easily with new sheet metal. You'll need to get the holes patched. Otherwise the interior will stay a moisture biotope for all kinds of fungi and yeasts...not very healthy to breathe in.....
You could have a look in my original posting to get some idea of the hidden damage....the structural integrity of that wing is at the least questionable....
Look and behold:
rusted completely through...1.4mm steel sheet...
All the way down from the window, follow the water-min-trail....
Front window frame, swiss cheese....windscreen barely held on....could push it outward about 5mm....
Do yourself the favour and cut out the windscreen and rear window.
Yes, they are glued in...
They will be just barely hanging on to the rust in the frames....
Luckily the metal is pretty thick, so most of the rust can be brushed out with a metal rotating brush. The holes can be patched fairly easily with new sheet metal. You'll need to get the holes patched. Otherwise the interior will stay a moisture biotope for all kinds of fungi and yeasts...not very healthy to breathe in.....
You could have a look in my original posting to get some idea of the hidden damage....the structural integrity of that wing is at the least questionable....
Look and behold:
rusted completely through...1.4mm steel sheet...
All the way down from the window, follow the water-min-trail....
Front window frame, swiss cheese....windscreen barely held on....could push it outward about 5mm....
Last edited by Dutch-Cat; 04-07-2017 at 03:17 PM.
#47
I was unable to do much in terms of working on the XJ6 this weekend, the vacuum hoses came in so I could replace the old stiff ones, and I realized how complex the vacuum hoses are in this thing. I was trying a 1 for 1 swap with new hoses, but then I realized how many hoses where just dangling under the hood that seem like they should go somewhere, and the few under the intake manifold seemed… intimidating to replace. I’m trying to make a decision on the best way to access these hoses, but the biggest issue I am needing a diagram of these hoses, not a list, and not the pictures on the hood, I have no problem admitting that those pictures just confused me. I feel like a lot of my rough idle issue is due in part to the hoses that go nowhere.
This week’s agenda if I can find the motivation is:
Finish the Vacuum Hose install/replacement
Another crank case flush and oil change
Reroute throttle cable
Finish the body filler and primer for paint later
This week’s agenda if I can find the motivation is:
Finish the Vacuum Hose install/replacement
Another crank case flush and oil change
Reroute throttle cable
Finish the body filler and primer for paint later
#48
Yup, almost identical rust damage like on mine....
Do yourself the favour and cut out the windscreen and rear window.
Yes, they are glued in...
They will be just barely hanging on to the rust in the frames....
Luckily the metal is pretty thick, so most of the rust can be brushed out with a metal rotating brush. The holes can be patched fairly easily with new sheet metal. You'll need to get the holes patched. Otherwise the interior will stay a moisture biotope for all kinds of fungi and yeasts...not very healthy to breathe in.....
You could have a look in my original posting to get some idea of the hidden damage....the structural integrity of that wing is at the least questionable....
Look and behold:
rusted completely through...1.4mm steel sheet...
All the way down from the window, follow the water-min-trail....
Front window frame, swiss cheese....windscreen barely held on....could push it outward about 5mm....
Do yourself the favour and cut out the windscreen and rear window.
Yes, they are glued in...
They will be just barely hanging on to the rust in the frames....
Luckily the metal is pretty thick, so most of the rust can be brushed out with a metal rotating brush. The holes can be patched fairly easily with new sheet metal. You'll need to get the holes patched. Otherwise the interior will stay a moisture biotope for all kinds of fungi and yeasts...not very healthy to breathe in.....
You could have a look in my original posting to get some idea of the hidden damage....the structural integrity of that wing is at the least questionable....
Look and behold:
rusted completely through...1.4mm steel sheet...
All the way down from the window, follow the water-min-trail....
Front window frame, swiss cheese....windscreen barely held on....could push it outward about 5mm....
#49
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