you have one of the later 1984 made.

yeahh the rear brake pads are a pain, the nature of the rear suspension, but 10 hours? more like 4 for someone who has done it be-4. Sounds like you're going to pay them to learn how to do it! If you pay me for 10 hours I want to learn too! hahaa! Does the 10 hours include a brake fluid flush and replacing the rear rotors? Do not use Silicone Brake Fluid.

LEDs: v12s LED Upgrades for Jaguar XJ6 XJ40
(not cheap, you can get the same LEDs elsewhere by searching LED sites, there are many, the only benefit to ordering from this company is that they've done the homework).

you can replace the Opticell bulb without removing the shifter surround panel, removing only the black plastic tray and the lid, then you find the removable bulb socket on the left driver's side (has 2 wires, one is red with white stripe), remove and replace the bulb and push the socket in its hole. This is best done by "feel", in the dark, so that you can see the optic lights come alive and you can also rotate the bulb socket for best illumination.

the Owner's Manual explains that the glovebox light only comes ON when the exterior lights are ON. but it is buried in the book, not many people bother to read it.

 

I did the brake pads myself.. After figuring out the line up of the holes for the retaining clips was fairly easy.. The dealership says it will take 10 hours to change the two brake rotors.. At 400 bucks just for the rotors!! Motorcars ltd has them for 40 plus bucks each.. lol, bet they are just as good.. But, 10 hours for the learning curve?? I want in on that one too.. I'll just pull the ski slope to put in the opticell.. I like the led bulb tho.. Can you do this to the lights in the dash too? Might be a little to bright tho, may have to stick to the the original type.. I checked the gaskets around the tail lights. They are surprisingly in good shape for the age of the car. One of the screws that hold in the tail light was snapped off by the head. Figure that one out? But light cover has no cracks or chips out of it..Yea, me.. Oh, yeah.. I would very much like the link to hook up the side markers to the front signal lights.

 

Another question... How can you tell if the starter relay is bad or not?? Trying to figure out if it's the relay or the starter..

 

Remove the white/red wire from the starter relay and jump it to 12volts. This bypasses the relay and everything upstream of the relay.

If the starter still does not operate, you have a dead starter or a problem with the white/red wire.

If the starter *does* operate with the relay bypassed then you have a problem with the relay or something upstream of the relay such as the ignition switch or neutral safety switch.

If you have a 12v test lamp or meter we can walk you thru some basic tests of the starter circuit.

Here's some reading on "no crank" problems

Engine Will Not Crank Checklist


Cheers
DD

 

Cleaned the power relays from the battery, accross the fire wall. They were bad, wonder how I even got power for as long as I did.. Also did the ground on the fire wall, top of the engine that has the injector leads and one of the small ground wires. Going to have to get under it and do the alt, etc.. So, I cut a peice of wire and attached a spade terminal to it and jumped the red/white wire...And Nadda.. Guess a new starter is in order.. This should be interesting...

 

If you've replaced a starter on any other car you can do it on a Ser III XJ6. Not that bad. A few tips...

- One bolt above, one below. The "above" bolt is easier if you removed the battery. The "below" bolt is easier with a 18"-24" extension, as I recall

- Transmission vent pipes are alongside the starter. Unclip them and move them out of the way

- The starter uses a 1/8" mounting spacer. Sometimes it'll stay on the old starter. Make sure to transfer it to the new starter

- Remove the oil pressure sending unit...which is directly in front of the starter. Why? the starter is awkward and heavy. If it gets away from you it'll bang into the sending unit and snap it right off!

- If you have difficulty removing the heavy cable from the starter, no worries. Leave it in place on the starter but disconnect at the other end (at the firewall "+" voltage junction) instead.

Hope this helps

Cheers
DD

 

get one of the new lightweight starters and let us know what you think.

 

Going to get under the car and clean up the contacts from the alt, ground strap and any thing else I see there. Then replace the small battery with a larger one. Have seem some post that at one should "get the largest battery that will fit in that space". Since the wiper motor suddenly stopped working and I was looking at a new one.. But after cleaning the positive post along the fire wall, it now works... Thank god, didn't want to spend so much on one.. So am hoping that cleaning up the contacts and some more cranking amps for all that compression might work.. Is the starter on the right side up under the intake manifold by the transmission bell housing?

 

Well, the new starter showed up.. I don't think it's one of the new light weight ones.. Feels like it 40 pounds.. This should be interesting.. Will let you guys know how this turns out..

 

the lighter ones are called Gear Reduction Starters. they're being sold at eBay.

 

Well, the new starter was $144.00 bucks from NAPA. It's about the same weight as the old one, still kind of heavy.. Took a while to figure out how to get the old one moved around to get out.( about 1 1/2 hours) But the new one slid right in in about 5 mins. The pinion gear on the end of the old starter was completely loose. Solenoid was shot too. Started right up with the first turn of the key.. Then pulled the radio out to work on that.. And it wouldn't turn over.. A few choice words, and then a brain cramp.... Figured out that where I had put the transmission all the way back to get the radio out it wouldn't start.. Not in neutral or park ya dummy..... Now to figure out why the radio power line has no power with the key off.. Off to find the magic fuse.. Then new door speakers, sun roof seal.. My never ending list... lol..

 

power to the radio is through the ignition switch, that's how it came from the factory.

put the ignition switch in ACC (accessory=radio), and you can listen to stoopit advertisements selling snake oil :-))

 

Thanks for the sheets.. The original radio that was in the car had a schematic on top of it saying that the red wire was a constant power supply.. But the new radio does not hold the stations or setting when the key is off.. Will have to look for the white and pink wire..

 

try this sheet:

 

That's what is on my radio. The red wire that is supposed to be constant is not. Go figure..

 

yes because that is a 1986 radio, not '84 or '85. However the '86 radio works fine in my 1984 but I don't remember what I did, other than I think I may have inverted the yellow and the red wires, so that yellow is constant and red is ignition 12v.