I was wondering if anyone here with the conversion done has headers that weren't sold with the conversion kit. I want some long tube headers but not sure if I have the clearance for them or not and don't want to buy some and find out I can't use them. The ones sold on the conversion websites look like crap and they are shortys or whatever you call them instead of long tube. Any help on which headers to buy that will clear a Series 2 with a 350 would be greatly appreciated (:

edit: not sure if this is the best forum category for this question or not so feel free to move it if you see fit.

 

Long tubes on the passenger side will work just fine... there is plenty of room on that side. The problem is with the driver side because of the steering shaft being in the way toward the rear of the block and the cross member is in the way toward the front of the block. If you want long tubes on the driver side you'll need to do some serious custom fabrication and bunch up the tubes real tight and pass them through through the tight space where the collector would pass on a normal conversion. It can be done. I've seen custom long tubes on the driver side. Here's how it was done... a set of shorties was cut off at the collector and extensions were welded to the individual tubes and bent just like the header pipe in a normal conversion, then they were recollected. I don't think the effort was worth it because the bends were severe, I don't think they would flow that much better than a shorty.

Are long tubes really necessary on your build? If so I'd love to hear more about your plans.

You could always go asymmetrical, short on one side and long on the other. If headers are worth 30 HP considering the cost and difficulty, 15HP for 300$ is better than spending $1000 on a custom set.

 

Having had two sets of the "shortie" headers on Jags that have cracked again and again, I took them off and hung them on the garage wall like a "trophy" head.

Now use ported Corvette 2 1/2 inch Ram Horns that do not leak, give maybe 15 HP less without all the problems. Plus, they only cost $160.00 new!

 

i have heard of people using these.. what is a good source to buy them from? long tubes aren't necessary for my build I just like them better and if I could get some that would clear then that would be neat but if not definitely not worth the money of a custom setup!

 

Headers are neat, sorta. The tube length has something to do with where in the RPM range the torque is. But, tis more of an art than a science as to just how long or how short. And, if not tuned to where one usually drives, one gets no seat of the pants satisfaction. In my opinion, one isn't likely to get an ideal set off the rack, long or short.

And, for street use, more trouble than they are worth. Especily when the ram horns are pretty well shaped for most driving.

My Jeep has a factory tube exhaust manifold. Short tube, I guess. Neede to get some weight off and some grunt into that antique six. My son says it "chuffs". probably leaking, but my ears don't hear that stuff anymore. So, thyat is how it will stay.

Now, in ealier engines. that i messed with,, exhausts were fr worse than now. A pair of short tubes on the 59AB V8 in my Roadster sounded great and added real HP in the seat. Same with the four banger before it. A B on 4 into 1 is nothing like the riginal in sound and or seat of the pants. But, the factory maniolds were far from free flow.

I was lucky in that the take out engine and trans I bought for my car included a pair of new Ram horns. They even had ports for injection rails. Made the SMOG guy happy.

I did have to grind them to fit and drill and tap for EGR. Not a biggie at all.

Carl

 

I got mine from Speedway Motors, both sets. I cut off the un needed mounts for the alternator and ported them with a carbide bit. I removed the heat tube inside and drilled and tapped threads for a ARP bolt.

See the photos attached, it does not take long for the porting and then some sanding with a disc and I painted them with High Temp Silver paint.

 

Looking good!

 

visit rockauto.com, lookup exhaust manifold for 1963 Chevrolet corvette. They are about 50$ each. Made in china.

 

Check out Sanderson headers... they make sets known to fit the XJ6/SBC, specifically. Not terribly cheap, but I just installed them on my Series II... perfect fit.

 

Had two pair, watch out for cracks at the flanges.....

 

There is a signifigant amount of weight down stream of the headers and the movement in the hangers will crack headers because they become brittle from the heat cycling. If you use a flex pipe a few inches past the turn down your headers will be far less crack prone. Many new cars uses the braided metal fabric flex pipe for this reason. You can find them in all the common exhaust pipe sizes for about 25$ I have a pair of sandersons, they had very sloppy welds and the ports were not round and obstrucked by weld. I wouldnt buy them again but they have not cracked with the flex pipes in place.

 

these are the headers I am currently running on my SBC. they work perfect. it takes a little more modification for the down pipes, and the ports on the headers are round, but its waaaaaaaay less work then trying to find a set of shorties that will fit with the steering linkage setup.

I'll get some pics of the install if you would like.

 

Rob Wade posts on another site. His specialty is exhaust. Ontario is his home, I think.
he has a beautiful XJS lump. He modified the shorty headers to suit and made an under the cage system for the tail as well.

My FJ40 Toyota land cruiser had headers in it's final reincarnation. Ok, as they replaced a bad manifold. I now feel a good manifold beats poor headers hands down.

Oh, I understand the boss at Sanderson is a gal and that she stands behind her product. Might look her up as to the cracking issue.

Carl

 

They stood behind their headers, welded them and recoated them...but, without the flexible additional fitting they break again and again...

But, they do not state anywhere that the flexible fitting is "required or even suggested".... Buyer beware....

I find good manifolds to be the cast iron Ram Horns that I port myself. Plus. if you muffler has any skills at all - the extra separate downpipes
are needed to clear the steering shaft.

No problems at all when using them and any HP difference is not noticeable...but the cracking and extra noise created IS evident....

Would be glad to sell my "trophy" to anyone interested in trying them??? Plus, I have a new set of the "downpipes" that I do not need now for sale...