Well here she sits, patiently waiting for spring to arrive.





Before we get that far however, she's gonna need new rear brake rotors, pads and p-brake pads. I'll rebuild the calipers with new stainless steel pistons, and new seals. The pinion seal has a leak, so a new one is going in. New brake hoses are a given. I replaced the left side wheel bearings last fall, so I'll tackle the right side now while I'm at it. I'll also degrease, clean and buff up the IRS a bit, but probably won't go completely overboard. We'll see how I get on and how much time I'll be able to put into it.

I allready sourced the rotors, pads, hoses, wheel bearings and the pinion seal from a local supplier. The other stuff will be ordered from SNG, but I'll tear the IRS apart first in case there are other bits that needs to be on the order.

I'll try to update this thread with a few photos as I get the job going.


Cheers
Tor

 

If you are going that far, then I would suggest doing the output shaft seals while you have to rotors and calipers off.
Unless of course you weren't planning on pulling the diff to bits. From what I saw you could do the pinion seal with the diff assembled. Mine was already stripped before I bought parts so I couldn't say for certain.

 

Yeah, I've given it some thought, but I really don't want to pull the diff apart. Unless I find they are leaking when I get the rotors off, I think I'll leave the output shaft seals well alone. From what I gather the pinion seal can be replaced by pulling the flange off. No need to dissect the diff.

 

I didn't really take a lot of notice of what could be done assembled/unassembled. My fire pretty much destroyed all seals and brake pad material, brake lines and anything else that didn't like heat. Basically all rubber mounts and bushes were toast as well as springs and cables,fuel lines etc.

Everything had to be done.

 

Have done this several times now.. changing all the needed parts when it is on the floor is just grungy work. E-brake is tedious, the new hose in the rear is "required"... I went to the trouble of making my "pretty" with paint and new cover but I am the only one to see the progress. Plywood piece used is shown in the picture. I also changed the four (4) rubber "V" mounts that hold it all in place... after 40+ years they were in bad shape.


I changed the gears last time to 2:88 LSD since I now have plenty of low end torque and a (4) speed OD with the V8... speedo/odometer mods is a whole other story for a Series 1 since that gear ratio did not exist...


I use a piece of heavy plywood and my floor jack... easier with another person helping keep it "level". Jack stands for the car since it has to be high (18 inches off the ground) and chocks under the front wheels will keep it off your body!


Getting the radius arms off with the curved tool is easy enough, press in
new ones and you are ready to go... be sure to replace the stock safety wire
holding them on safely.

 

Thanks for your input. I allready replaced the V mounts last winter as 2 of them had perished. I hopefully won't need to replace them this time around. I have a Chevy 350 in mine with a 700R4 tranny. I have the original 3:31 gears and the thought of getting longer legs has crossed my mind. 3:07 or maybe even 2:88. Would I be better off getting an old diff for parts in that case, or can you buy the gears alone somewhere?

 

Vented rotors kits are available.
Makes a big difference in braking performance and keeps the diff seals from leaking.

 

Most Series 3 Jag have the 2:88 LSD - 3:07 with LSD would be more
ideal for your smaller torqued motor and the higher 4th gear in your 700R OD. They came in some 4.2 Litre (3rd type) cars - gears are 43/14 and the part number is C.41050/D.


You can purchase just the gears many places... but certain carriers take certain gear sets. These are Dana 44 type differentials and that is the cover
I used on mine for the "pretty look".


The S1 speedo/odometer heads only came in certain ratios but they can be "adjusted" by a few good shops... I spent many hours figuring how to
get mine very close to perfect with the speed and odometer portion.


How close to perfect is the speed shown on your car now compared with a GPS or timing a measured mile?

 

Thanks. A friend of mine has an old jag diff lying around, he was going to check the gears, as he couldn't remember what they were. I might take it off his hands, for parts if nothing else. I'll most likely stay with the 3:31 as that and the 700R is a pretty good combo. It takes off like a rocket, and I get about 1750 RPM at 80 km/h.

I haven't compared the spedometer to a GPS or anything, but I think it's pretty accurate. When following traffic I'm usually at or very close to the speed limit. Unless everybody is speeding or driving to slow, it must be pretty much spot on. Adjusting that would be a matter of changing the plastic gears in the rear hub of the 700R right?

 

That's interesting to know.
My coupe, with the 3:31 ratio, is 2,000rpm at 65mph (104.607kmph)
I have the stock Jaguar XJ6 Series I 4-speed over-drive stick manual.

 

Looks like memory is starting to fade! My diff is not 3:31, it's 3:54. If my friends diff is 3:31 I might look into replacing it with that. Would drop RPM's a bit on the highway, and still get her going decently I think.

This is a handy tool if you know all the numbers.
http://www.boosttown.com/gearbox_dif...calculator.php

 

Got her up on jack stands this evening. 20 inches of clearance below the diff will hopeully do the trick. I sprayed som WD-40 on the exhaust joints. Hopefully I'll get the IRS out this weekend.

 

Plenty of clearance there. I dropped mine on my own with the jack, onto a couple of dollys I made up and pulled it out to the side.The dollys made it a simple task to move the unit around on my own. A second pair of hands will make it easier, the complete unit seemed to want to fall forward as I dropped it.....oh and don't forget to disconnect the flexible brake hose.

I had to heat my pipes to get them off, hardest part of the whole job.

 

When I did the '72 car, I rebuilt the exhaust to exit under the IRS (ala late model Corvettes) with flanges (next time ball joints!). Then the mufflers were put into the place the Jag resonators used to live and tips put on at that time. Makes any future IRS/rear brake servicing much easier... no cutting of pipes or soaking connections that will be hard to remove. No snaking of exhaust pipes through the IRS and all the rubber mounts that fall apart over time, there is no ground clearance problems.


Ended up replacing the original after market large tips with the "S" curved ones from a S3 to cut down on the exhaust fumes with the windows open. Made the car lots
quieter and the smell went away entirely... Jaguar knew what they were doing in this instance.


Next time (my own '71 Jag) I will have the round Magnaflow mufflers in the same place (so the look is better as the oval ones hang down a little) with the S curved tips to start with. They currently exit under the rear valances (PO like that method and filled the old exhaust holes - I have new valances to replace with now).

 

It's out! It came out a lot easier than I had anticipated. Even the exhaust came apart without too much trouble! It took me exactly two hours start to finish.



The IRS looks surprisingly good, Not all that rusty, the calipers and p-brake mechanism is fairly clean and mooves freely. I'll try to disassemble it tomorrow and get it into my basement for refurbishment work. The car is in a garage about 20 mins from my house at the moment.



Now for a glass of red!

 

Pretty big unit to move anywhere in one piece. Might be easier to dismantle it then move it to you basement , unless you have a couple mates ready to help you move it or lifting gear at both ends of the journey.

 

I want to replace my stock original exhaust, when I replace my cast iron headers with ceramic coated tubular steel headers. Then replace the single muffler system to a split muffler system. Do you have any photos of your muffler project?

 

The IRS is in bits and in my basement. Everything came out fairly easy, but it did take quite a few hours of work.







A few pics from the tear down

 

Hope you noted the thickness and position of any shims either side of each brake disc, (if any). Inner set is for equal disc clearance to the caliper, outer is for camber adjustment.

 

Yes I did