79 XJ Series 3, with SBC / TH350 - Should I buy it for $3k?
#1
79 XJ Series 3, with SBC / TH350 - Should I buy it for $3k?
Hey guys,
I've never been in this XJ section before, but I happened across an interesting car locally and am wondering if I should pick it up as a toy.
Car is a 79 Jag XJ6 Series II. (sorry i said series 3 in the title)
From the local ad:
This is a '79 XJ6, 4dr, red, series II, Jaguar with an installed 350SBC v-8 Professionally built engine and professional installation. 650 cfm spreadbore Holley, mild cam, MSD ig, Mallory dist, Hooker headers, new Magnaflow exhaust, new shocks, new brakes, power steering, AC (needs charge), new alt., 3 speed auto T350 shifts as it should. This car has been restored over several years, over $10k spent. New seats (front and rear), headliner. Repaint is good quality, but does have a few stone chips. Take to shows or use as your daily drive, super reliable. I have an XJS to put on the road, but need to sell this first.
He's asking 3500 but i think 3k cash in his hand will work...
Now I've always loved the older Jags. I have an S-type and X-type as daily drivers.
This would be strictly a summer toy / collector car. It can be registered as an antique / historic vehicle, with no inspection / emission requirements, as well as cheap limited use collector insurance.
I don't know much about these older Jags. What should I look for? What should I expect problem wise. I have tons of experience with the SBC drivetrains, and can work on that.
Any help / advice / knowledge as to what I'm getting into would be greatly appreciated.
Thanks in advance,
George
I've never been in this XJ section before, but I happened across an interesting car locally and am wondering if I should pick it up as a toy.
Car is a 79 Jag XJ6 Series II. (sorry i said series 3 in the title)
From the local ad:
This is a '79 XJ6, 4dr, red, series II, Jaguar with an installed 350SBC v-8 Professionally built engine and professional installation. 650 cfm spreadbore Holley, mild cam, MSD ig, Mallory dist, Hooker headers, new Magnaflow exhaust, new shocks, new brakes, power steering, AC (needs charge), new alt., 3 speed auto T350 shifts as it should. This car has been restored over several years, over $10k spent. New seats (front and rear), headliner. Repaint is good quality, but does have a few stone chips. Take to shows or use as your daily drive, super reliable. I have an XJS to put on the road, but need to sell this first.
He's asking 3500 but i think 3k cash in his hand will work...
Now I've always loved the older Jags. I have an S-type and X-type as daily drivers.
This would be strictly a summer toy / collector car. It can be registered as an antique / historic vehicle, with no inspection / emission requirements, as well as cheap limited use collector insurance.
I don't know much about these older Jags. What should I look for? What should I expect problem wise. I have tons of experience with the SBC drivetrains, and can work on that.
Any help / advice / knowledge as to what I'm getting into would be greatly appreciated.
Thanks in advance,
George
#2
Hi there !
Clearly as an English poster I can't tell you anything about the US engine and transmission, but you need to pay attention to: -
1. Body integrity - these are cars built before any real attention to rust prevention etc. The Jaguar factory was unbelievably primitive when this car was built. Key points are
- front cross member under the radiator - rusts away
- side sills (are these "rocker panels" in the US ?) - rusts away
- suspension arm mounts box section at front of rear wheel arches - rusts away
This box section starts at rear of sill and goes over back of rear wheel arch. They can rust REALLY badly
- inner front wheel arches behind shock abosrber reinforcement.
- boot floor and rear valence (not safety critical, but unsightly)
- rear wing at fuel fillers (not safety critical, but unsightly)
- Front floor panels
- Front toe panels
- Front wing "eyebrows" (not safety critical, but unsightly)
- boot (trunk) lid vertical panel at bottom (not safety critical, but unsightly).
2. Front suspension - all parts obtainable, but likely to need attention. The XJ40 top & bottom ball joints are a straight fit and last forever.
3. Front subframe - rots at top of spring towers.
4. Rear suspension - all parts obtainable, but likely to need attention, especially UJs and hubcarrier trunnion bearings. Suspension tie arms rot out and need replacing. There are 4 mounts tying the rear subframe to the body - replace them, or it will fall out !
5. Diff - strangely robust funnily enough, (but may make a bit of noise)!!
6. Electrics are Lucas (Prince of Darkness !!)
7. Interior - expensive to refurbish.
Clearly as an English poster I can't tell you anything about the US engine and transmission, but you need to pay attention to: -
1. Body integrity - these are cars built before any real attention to rust prevention etc. The Jaguar factory was unbelievably primitive when this car was built. Key points are
- front cross member under the radiator - rusts away
- side sills (are these "rocker panels" in the US ?) - rusts away
- suspension arm mounts box section at front of rear wheel arches - rusts away
This box section starts at rear of sill and goes over back of rear wheel arch. They can rust REALLY badly
- inner front wheel arches behind shock abosrber reinforcement.
- boot floor and rear valence (not safety critical, but unsightly)
- rear wing at fuel fillers (not safety critical, but unsightly)
- Front floor panels
- Front toe panels
- Front wing "eyebrows" (not safety critical, but unsightly)
- boot (trunk) lid vertical panel at bottom (not safety critical, but unsightly).
2. Front suspension - all parts obtainable, but likely to need attention. The XJ40 top & bottom ball joints are a straight fit and last forever.
3. Front subframe - rots at top of spring towers.
4. Rear suspension - all parts obtainable, but likely to need attention, especially UJs and hubcarrier trunnion bearings. Suspension tie arms rot out and need replacing. There are 4 mounts tying the rear subframe to the body - replace them, or it will fall out !
5. Diff - strangely robust funnily enough, (but may make a bit of noise)!!
6. Electrics are Lucas (Prince of Darkness !!)
7. Interior - expensive to refurbish.
The following users liked this post:
oldmancar (02-16-2011)
#3
I personally find these engine swap projects confusing. I can see swapping a replacement engine into some limited production exotic with an unobtainable original drivetrain, but, that often isn't the case.
To me, the car you are looking at is a fine example of "what was the plan?". The Series II Jaguar is clearly a fine cruising vehicle with great lines and a plush interior. What's under the hood, in this case, is a well built American muscle car engine that is likely well north of 300hp. That engine will have a very noticable lope at idle and a deep rumbling exhaust note with that fine Magnaflow system on it; everything a fine 1970 Chevelle should have! Together, you have a 5000lb sedan with a 8mpg muscle car sound and feel. I like both, but, in one package?
It will depend on what you want in a toy. If you want a weekend warrior, you might find it is heavy and not well suited for stoplight racing. If you want a smooth cruiser, you will likely find the engine is pretty rough and may become annoying after a while.
Otherwise, the drivetrain is bullitproof and really simple to maintain. The Jaguar specific issues have been well outlined above! Good luck either way.
Tim
To me, the car you are looking at is a fine example of "what was the plan?". The Series II Jaguar is clearly a fine cruising vehicle with great lines and a plush interior. What's under the hood, in this case, is a well built American muscle car engine that is likely well north of 300hp. That engine will have a very noticable lope at idle and a deep rumbling exhaust note with that fine Magnaflow system on it; everything a fine 1970 Chevelle should have! Together, you have a 5000lb sedan with a 8mpg muscle car sound and feel. I like both, but, in one package?
It will depend on what you want in a toy. If you want a weekend warrior, you might find it is heavy and not well suited for stoplight racing. If you want a smooth cruiser, you will likely find the engine is pretty rough and may become annoying after a while.
Otherwise, the drivetrain is bullitproof and really simple to maintain. The Jaguar specific issues have been well outlined above! Good luck either way.
Tim
#4
I personally find these engine swap projects confusing. I can see swapping a replacement engine into some limited production exotic with an unobtainable original drivetrain, but, that often isn't the case.
To me, the car you are looking at is a fine example of "what was the plan?". The Series II Jaguar is clearly a fine cruising vehicle with great lines and a plush interior. What's under the hood, in this case, is a well built American muscle car engine that is likely well north of 300hp. That engine will have a very noticable lope at idle and a deep rumbling exhaust note with that fine Magnaflow system on it; everything a fine 1970 Chevelle should have! Together, you have a 5000lb sedan with a 8mpg muscle car sound and feel. I like both, but, in one package?
It will depend on what you want in a toy. If you want a weekend warrior, you might find it is heavy and not well suited for stoplight racing. If you want a smooth cruiser, you will likely find the engine is pretty rough and may become annoying after a while.
Otherwise, the drivetrain is bullitproof and really simple to maintain. The Jaguar specific issues have been well outlined above! Good luck either way.
Tim
To me, the car you are looking at is a fine example of "what was the plan?". The Series II Jaguar is clearly a fine cruising vehicle with great lines and a plush interior. What's under the hood, in this case, is a well built American muscle car engine that is likely well north of 300hp. That engine will have a very noticable lope at idle and a deep rumbling exhaust note with that fine Magnaflow system on it; everything a fine 1970 Chevelle should have! Together, you have a 5000lb sedan with a 8mpg muscle car sound and feel. I like both, but, in one package?
It will depend on what you want in a toy. If you want a weekend warrior, you might find it is heavy and not well suited for stoplight racing. If you want a smooth cruiser, you will likely find the engine is pretty rough and may become annoying after a while.
Otherwise, the drivetrain is bullitproof and really simple to maintain. The Jaguar specific issues have been well outlined above! Good luck either way.
Tim
I almost look at this as a "Camaro in a Tuxedo". The Jag diff is a Dana 44 - standard corvette fair of the day. So yes the drivetrain is bulletproof, but is it suited to the car?
All my friends still have Camaros etc as toys, so the idea of this intrigued me cause it's something "different"...
I really have to see the overall condition of the car. Are they REALLY 5000 lbs? How do they handle?
As far as what I'd want out of it, a competent boulevard cruiser, something to maybe play at the occasional light.. I'm sure it will turn heads rapping off and sounding like it's going to stall cause of the cam (depending on how aggressive it is). Im sure that thing will roast the tires with the occasional "enthusiastic" application of the throttle. No traction control ABS or other computers to ruin the fun.
I'm not going to mini tub it and throw a set of slicks and prostars and skinnies up front... although I'd be tempted
I think I'm going to take a look at it this weekend. I'll print this thread as a reference point to take with me.
George
#5
Join Date: Mar 2008
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If you like it, buy it ! :-)
Jags sedans handle very well as luxury sedans go, but they are not sportscars.
Curb weight on a Ser II will be about 4000 pounds.
On a 31 year old Jag the drivetrain is the least of your worries, as Fraser's checklist indicates.
Nice cars, though, once you get everything sorted out.
Cheers
DD
Jags sedans handle very well as luxury sedans go, but they are not sportscars.
Curb weight on a Ser II will be about 4000 pounds.
On a 31 year old Jag the drivetrain is the least of your worries, as Fraser's checklist indicates.
Nice cars, though, once you get everything sorted out.
Cheers
DD
#6
#7
Ok, this one I can answer. I've got a '81 XJ6 with a 350+hp 350 motor and a TH350 transmission with a full B+M kit in it. If driven sedately it is a great every day driver (although it does have that "muscle car" exhaust note and idle). But if I feel the need it will keep up with about anything on the road. This is the most fun car I've built in the last thirty years. Since the one you're looking at has new seats that's a major plus-leather is expensive! Mine is a Series III, but I've always thought the Series II was a better looking car, the roof flows better since it isn't flattened out for the sunroof. If you want a fun car that get's lots of attention every time you drive it then go for it. By the way, mines red, too
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#8
I say go for it. I've looked into these profesionally made DIY kits and they run from $1100 and up. Plus you still need a donor engine and tranny. It sounds like a good deal money wise at $3000. Find out where the kit came from for future reference and/or repairs. Follow the advise on what else to look for and go from there. Good luck.
#9
#11
Xjv8 ?
I have an '82 XJ6 III that I purchased new. After about 175,000 miles, the 6 cylinder engine died, so I transplanted the engine, transmission and wiring harness out of an '88 Corvette into the car. Car sounds great and is a blast to drive. More importantly, it is easy to work on and much more reliable than before. I would estimate that I've put about 80,000 miles on the car since the swap, and will probably never sell it. My license plate says XJV8. For you purists, I also have two other Jags, an XJ8 Vanden Plas and an XJR Supercharged, and they are all Jaguar. However, of all three, the '82 Series III gets the most stares, so go figure.....its the best looking sedan Jag ever built (IMO). I'd say go for it, with gusto!!!!!
#12
Hi there !
Clearly as an English poster I can't tell you anything about the US engine and transmission, but you need to pay attention to: -
1. Body integrity - these are cars built before any real attention to rust prevention etc. The Jaguar factory was unbelievably primitive when this car was built. Key points are
- front cross member under the radiator - rusts away
- side sills (are these "rocker panels" in the US ?) - rusts away
- suspension arm mounts box section at front of rear wheel arches - rusts away
This box section starts at rear of sill and goes over back of rear wheel arch. They can rust REALLY badly
- inner front wheel arches behind shock abosrber reinforcement.
- boot floor and rear valence (not safety critical, but unsightly)
- rear wing at fuel fillers (not safety critical, but unsightly)
- Front floor panels
- Front toe panels
- Front wing "eyebrows" (not safety critical, but unsightly)
- boot (trunk) lid vertical panel at bottom (not safety critical, but unsightly).
2. Front suspension - all parts obtainable, but likely to need attention. The XJ40 top & bottom ball joints are a straight fit and last forever.
3. Front subframe - rots at top of spring towers.
4. Rear suspension - all parts obtainable, but likely to need attention, especially UJs and hubcarrier trunnion bearings. Suspension tie arms rot out and need replacing. There are 4 mounts tying the rear subframe to the body - replace them, or it will fall out !
5. Diff - strangely robust funnily enough, (but may make a bit of noise)!!
6. Electrics are Lucas (Prince of Darkness !!)
7. Interior - expensive to refurbish.
Clearly as an English poster I can't tell you anything about the US engine and transmission, but you need to pay attention to: -
1. Body integrity - these are cars built before any real attention to rust prevention etc. The Jaguar factory was unbelievably primitive when this car was built. Key points are
- front cross member under the radiator - rusts away
- side sills (are these "rocker panels" in the US ?) - rusts away
- suspension arm mounts box section at front of rear wheel arches - rusts away
This box section starts at rear of sill and goes over back of rear wheel arch. They can rust REALLY badly
- inner front wheel arches behind shock abosrber reinforcement.
- boot floor and rear valence (not safety critical, but unsightly)
- rear wing at fuel fillers (not safety critical, but unsightly)
- Front floor panels
- Front toe panels
- Front wing "eyebrows" (not safety critical, but unsightly)
- boot (trunk) lid vertical panel at bottom (not safety critical, but unsightly).
2. Front suspension - all parts obtainable, but likely to need attention. The XJ40 top & bottom ball joints are a straight fit and last forever.
3. Front subframe - rots at top of spring towers.
4. Rear suspension - all parts obtainable, but likely to need attention, especially UJs and hubcarrier trunnion bearings. Suspension tie arms rot out and need replacing. There are 4 mounts tying the rear subframe to the body - replace them, or it will fall out !
5. Diff - strangely robust funnily enough, (but may make a bit of noise)!!
6. Electrics are Lucas (Prince of Darkness !!)
7. Interior - expensive to refurbish.
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