84 XJ6 Ignition Switch/Key Barrel Assembly
#1
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Hello,
This is my first post here and I have several questions about a problem that recently popped up with my 84 Xj6
Recently, after parking my car in a parking garage, I put it in park and turned the key to kill the engine and remove the keys. After turning it from the On to Accessory position and as I was turning it to the off position, I felt a slight 'snap' or 'pop'. After fully removing my key, my radio continued to play, indicating that the accessory mode was still on and activated despite the key being entirely outside of the barrel.
I re-inserted the key and turned it in an attempt to restart the car. The key now simply turns in the key barrel without activating any changes (turning it all the way to off, does not turn off the accessories, turning it to crank/start the engine does not even attempt to activate ignition). In short, my barrel seems to be totally disconnected from the actual switch.
I have two questions.
1. Is there any way to start and kill the engine with the vehicle in this state? It is not in the best place to attempt any part replacement and I would really like to get it home or to a garage with more space.
more importantly...
2. What part do I need to replace in order to resolve this?
I have done some reading on the forums and looked at parts sites and I am still relatively unsure in a case like this of which parts need replacing.
I have managed to find a parts car with an intact, working ignition switch and matching keys for a good price but I do not want to purchase it unless I am certain that installing this part can resolve my issue and is possible or within my capacity.
I have never attempted doing interior work on the steering column or the ignition switch before so I am working in slightly unfamiliar territory.
As the car is not where it should be, any prompt advice would be greatly appreciated from this first-time poster.
Thank you very much.
John Cook
Waco, TX
84 XJ6
This is my first post here and I have several questions about a problem that recently popped up with my 84 Xj6
Recently, after parking my car in a parking garage, I put it in park and turned the key to kill the engine and remove the keys. After turning it from the On to Accessory position and as I was turning it to the off position, I felt a slight 'snap' or 'pop'. After fully removing my key, my radio continued to play, indicating that the accessory mode was still on and activated despite the key being entirely outside of the barrel.
I re-inserted the key and turned it in an attempt to restart the car. The key now simply turns in the key barrel without activating any changes (turning it all the way to off, does not turn off the accessories, turning it to crank/start the engine does not even attempt to activate ignition). In short, my barrel seems to be totally disconnected from the actual switch.
I have two questions.
1. Is there any way to start and kill the engine with the vehicle in this state? It is not in the best place to attempt any part replacement and I would really like to get it home or to a garage with more space.
more importantly...
2. What part do I need to replace in order to resolve this?
I have done some reading on the forums and looked at parts sites and I am still relatively unsure in a case like this of which parts need replacing.
I have managed to find a parts car with an intact, working ignition switch and matching keys for a good price but I do not want to purchase it unless I am certain that installing this part can resolve my issue and is possible or within my capacity.
I have never attempted doing interior work on the steering column or the ignition switch before so I am working in slightly unfamiliar territory.
As the car is not where it should be, any prompt advice would be greatly appreciated from this first-time poster.
Thank you very much.
John Cook
Waco, TX
84 XJ6
#2
Join Date: Mar 2008
Location: Pacific Northwest USA
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To stop the engine I'd pull the coil wire off....that is, the high tension wire going from the coil to the center of the distributor cap. Or, remove either the "main" or "fuel pump" relays. These are on the firewall inbetween the red diode pack (looks like a realy, but isn't) and the obviously-much-larger starter relay.
Sounds like you need a new ignition switch. Note the the actual ignition switch....the part that performs electrical functions....is mounted to the back of the igntion lock barrel/lock cylinder. The switch is available separately from the lock barrel. It's held in place by a simple little (very little) set screw. This is easy to replace after removing the under-dash trim panel.
Or perhaps, in your case, the switch has simply come loose from the lock barrel?
Post back for more details if needed
Cheers
DD
Sounds like you need a new ignition switch. Note the the actual ignition switch....the part that performs electrical functions....is mounted to the back of the igntion lock barrel/lock cylinder. The switch is available separately from the lock barrel. It's held in place by a simple little (very little) set screw. This is easy to replace after removing the under-dash trim panel.
Or perhaps, in your case, the switch has simply come loose from the lock barrel?
Post back for more details if needed
Cheers
DD
#3
#4
Join Date: Jul 2012
Location: Walnut Creek, California
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I have been there. Not quite in the same manner, but, odd stuff that mystified me for a while til I stumbled on to the ignition switch as the culprit. Doing the tiny screw in situ to part the electric part from the mechanical part proved beyond my abilities.
I removed the whole shebang. The only
tricky part was the breakaway screws that held the assembly in place. A hoe electric type wire nut proved just right. It's female taper just fit the shoulder of the screws. Friction just enough to remove them. An entire NOS assembly via David Boger was a perfect fix. So much tighter and smoother action as well as the departure of the odd issues.
How to steal the car. If the key action was enough to unlock the steering, it is basic.
1. Place shift lever in N or P. If N, make sure the hand brake will secure the car.
2. Jump battery + to coil +. This will enable ignition.
3. Jump battery + to the r/w wire from the starter relay to the starter solenoid. This will crank the engine. When it starts remove the jump. Watch out!!!
4. Drive home.
5. At home. remove the battery + jumop to coil + and the engine will
stop running.
CAVEAT !!! I have not done this. And, It may be necessary to jump the fuel pump relay as well.
Alternate plan.
Replace the ignition switch at the location of the car. Basic tools only needed.
Alternate plan two.
Use the tow service card and have it flat bedded home.
My tow service plus my cell phone is my insurance!!!
Carl
I removed the whole shebang. The only
tricky part was the breakaway screws that held the assembly in place. A hoe electric type wire nut proved just right. It's female taper just fit the shoulder of the screws. Friction just enough to remove them. An entire NOS assembly via David Boger was a perfect fix. So much tighter and smoother action as well as the departure of the odd issues.
How to steal the car. If the key action was enough to unlock the steering, it is basic.
1. Place shift lever in N or P. If N, make sure the hand brake will secure the car.
2. Jump battery + to coil +. This will enable ignition.
3. Jump battery + to the r/w wire from the starter relay to the starter solenoid. This will crank the engine. When it starts remove the jump. Watch out!!!
4. Drive home.
5. At home. remove the battery + jumop to coil + and the engine will
stop running.
CAVEAT !!! I have not done this. And, It may be necessary to jump the fuel pump relay as well.
Alternate plan.
Replace the ignition switch at the location of the car. Basic tools only needed.
Alternate plan two.
Use the tow service card and have it flat bedded home.
My tow service plus my cell phone is my insurance!!!
Carl
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