Hey everyone,

First off id like ot say this is a really helpful and fun site to surf around on.

I just bought a 1986 Jaguar XJ6 for 900$, drove it home. Seemed to run ok didnt wanna take it too fast though only about 40 mph for 5 miles after it hadnt been running for 7 years. The body is pretty immaculate along with the interior. A few rust spots are around the panels under the windshield and the rear windshield.

So far this is what i've done to it:
Air pump was siezed, so i threw a whole new one of those there.
New spark plugs and cleaned out the sludge in the crankcase, new oil and oil filter.
new belts
new battery
should I change tranny fluid and rear drive fluid?
I got new tires, but im having trouble with the lug nuts as they dont fit. I have the Jaguar wired/spoked wheels, where can I get new lug nuts?
Replaced the fuel changeover switch and trip computer.
The fuel gauge is pretty in responsive/sporadic. I am going to change the trunk changeover valve with one i got for 5 dollars used on ebay (haha).
I ordered a new wiper switch and managed to dismantle the old one. How do I disconnect the wires to the wiper switch?
At first the AUX fan was turning on the second the battery was connected, but now that has stopped. I've read about AUX fan switches, but i was wondering where that was located?
I did the front brake pads and rotors, and had a guy look at the ball joints, said they were OK.
The rear brakes...inboard, so that will be a 2 day job with much help.

Any other suggestions? I've been finding some good parts sites, but if anyone knows of any they like to use please let me know.

Thanks again.

-tyler

 

HI Tyler

Sounds like you have done a vary through job, congratulations on that. With a little love and care it will last you a long time.

As far as parts suppliers, there are some excellent new parts suppliers.

Ken, on this list all the time, is from MotorcarsLTD. I have personally used them, and found the service to be very good.
www.motorcarsltd.com
Another supplier who's name I saw advertized on the right is Auto Haus Arizona. I use them too occasionally, and found their prices to be very good. http://www.autohausaz.com

Two more personal favorites are Coventry West in Atlanta www.coventrywest.com and Jagbits. www.jagbits.com

There are scores of new parts businesses around. Ken adds alot of personal service to this forum, and is very helpful. The guys at Coventry West (Greg, Ray) are also leaders in the business, and know the cars inside and out.

I'm not affiliated with any of those, but I have used every one of them with great results.

Personally, I do use used parts when it is both economically and safe to do so. And I own, and part out, several Jaguars from Series 1-3.

Good luck with your new car
David
EverydayXJ

 

Hey David,

Thanks a lot. To tell you the truth i may have to use this as a daily driver, so I would like to keep it running as well as it can for as long as possible.

I got a new wiper switch, and I am having trouble finding the electrical connector to take it off. It is way back behind the steering wheel. Do you or does anyone else know how I can do this?

Thanks,

Tyler

 

Tyler,

I would do the trans filter:

http://www.motorcarsltd.com/item.wws?sku=IN102393

I don't think I would worry about the diff fluid. If you want to change it you just need a gasket. It should be a standard diff, but check if it's posi before draining the fluid. If it's the posi (power lock) you will need an additive for the clutches.

The floating fuel gauge is probably the sending unit. Does it do it on one side or both? Each tank has it's own sending unit and the fail frequently.

I don't know about the wiper switch. I will try to find out. Hopefully, Jose will come along and be able to tell you right off the top of his head.

I wouldn't sweat the aux fan. The Series 3 cars run fairly cool. I don't believe I've ever heard mine come on and we are down in Texas. It's not hell, but you can see it from here.

Also, check the control arm bushings (particularly the uppers) and the steering rack bushings. Other tid bits: trans mount spool and spring, the diff cage mounts, and rear radius arm bushings. That should keep you out of trouble for a little while.

 

HI Tyler

It's actually pretty straight forward. The connection only about nine inches behind the wheel. Assuming you have the underscuttle casing off, it shouldn't be too difficult to find.
It does go over the ignition lock, but is then only about 5" back.

David
EverydayXJ.com

 

Hi Tyler

I was typing my last reply at the same time as Ken, so I just got to read his.

I'm going to respectfully, and cautiously disagree with him on the auxillary fan.It's a pretty simple circut, so it shouldn't be that difficult to track down. It's main purpose isn't to cool the motor while running, but to protect from heat after the car has been parked.
You can test the motors themselves by simply disconnecting the lines, and running 12V from the battery to one terminal, and grounding the other.
If themotor tests OK, there are two culprits. One is the thermo switch, on the right side of the radiator. To test it, simply undo the connection, and jump the two wires together. The other is the red relay on the left upper side of the radiator. You can bypass that as well, or just test by subsitution.

I had an 81 that nearly kicked my butt trying to figure out the problem. Turned out the wires coming throught the fender well had worn through.
You can also wire a switch, inside the car to get the fan to turn on manually when the temp guage reaches 90.

Considering it was running constantly, and then not at all, the relay is suspect. Either it corrected itself, and it hasn't been warm enough to turn the fan on, or it is non functioning now.

Good luck
David
EverydayXJ

 

My finger is a half inch short of beign able to reach the connector. How should I get it out/get to it?

 

Do you have the underscuttle casing, the black trim under the wheel wheel, off? It's only about 4 screws.
With that off, you should be able to see the connector.
If you still can't reach it, grab it with some pliers, and gently pull it to a location where you can get it. There is some play in the wires. Don't jank it, just a gentle pull

David
EverydayXJ

 

I asked the guys in the shop. Sounds like David is dead on. They said remove the underscuttle and the pigtail runs back about 4". Plug and play.

 

yeah I've dismantled the old one, its just hanging there, I've had the underscuttle off the entire time its just hard to reach back in there. I'll try the plier idea. thanks for the help!

 

Thanks Ken!

hello to the new XJ owner.

1) there is no AUX Fan Switch, only a Thermal Switch located on the bottom right of the radiator, towards the engine compartment side with two epoxy-dipped wires sticking out from it. Totally inaccesible!You can try to get to it from below the car, removing the splash panel underneath the radiator, then try to get a big wrench in there to turn it counterclockwise.

But the Thermal Switchmay not neccesarily be the problem, the symptom you describeis usually caused by the Red Relay located on top of the radiator support beam, on the left side of the engine compartment and connected to a 4-wire socket. Those relays rust inside, you might pry it open and clean the contacts to see before you replace the Thermal Switch. Mine is the original 1984 (1983 actually since these cars were built a year before they wereshipped to dealers), and it still works fine.

The Thermal Switchkicks the auxiliary FanON, at around 95 degrees centigrade, even after shutting the engine off, then it shuts it off automatically.

The FUSE for the Aux Fan is located in the Fuse box located in the engine compartment, next to the coolant recovery tank.The 1st fuse closest to the radiator is the Aux. Fan fuse.


2) The Wiper Stalk Switch is "rebuildable". The Wiring from the switch extends under the dash where it meets with a large rubber vulcanized plug. To separate the two halves of the plugs, you twist them as you pull, very painful. When working with those harnesses, it is best to disconnect the battery first, in case you decide toseparate them with the help of a flat blade screwdriver, it's veryeasy to blow 20fuses in series.There is also a pair of black wires connecting by way of "bullet" connectors to the Turn Signal Switch. Make sure you disconnect those two too, which are located on the top of the steering column, to the left of the Wiper switch.

Of course, you have to remove the upper and lower "nacelles", (steering column black plastic covers), and to get those out properly without cracking them, you have to remove the ignition switch and headlamp switch "escutcheons", or plastic finishing covers. PHEEEWWW! And also the panel under the dash and related plastic corner-covers must be removed, including the Floor Vent panel on the left front side of the center console.

Not to mention THAT: The Steering wheel itself should be removed along with the Upper Adjustable Steering column, per the Factory Service Manual Procedure. But you might get away with just loosening the big scalloped Nut behind the steering wheel, and pulling the steering wheel towards you to maximum adjustment. Once you do it once, the second time is easier, if that's any comfort. Actually, these cars are simple to work on, so just be very gentle with everything you touch.

3) order the Transmission service kit from Kento do a servicingif you don't know the history of the transmission servicing. And you should follow the Service Manual Procedure to the letter, not try to guess your way through it.

4) the Factory Service and Parts Manual CDwill be the best $25.00 you'll ever spend.

you can order it here: http://www.lbcarco.com

Otherwise, I hope you've had some luck already.

Jose

 

Normally I can get to the thermal switch by simply removing the air filter housing/horn, and taking a long reach to get to it.
You can test the switch function by disconnecting the wiring harness, and jumping the wires together. In a system that has been changed to a switch inside the car, that is done anyway, as the thermal switch is no longer needed. You can also bypass the relay, to see if that is where the problem lies.

I think from the previous post you already have the old wiper switch removed, you're just having problems making the wiring connection.
I agree with everything Jose says, IF you are removing the entire turn signal/wiper assembly. But just the wiper side can be removed independantly, cutting the time in half. So unless you are a Jag Technician on the clock, keep plugging away at it the way you are, and you'll get there.

The factory service manual would be a great help to you on some of the more difficult operations. My preference has been the paper version. I have both, and the CD is awkward to navigate at times, and the parts manual on CD is incomplete. You can get either of the hard copies on Ebay pretty cheap.

Good luck
David
EverydayXJ

 

That info is excellent you guys.

Now that i look back. A while ago I took off the red relay above the radiator because it was so obviously sitting there looking like a culprit. I cleaned off the contacts and everything, but when my friend moved the car he didn't say the fan had stopped spinning when the battery was connected. Therefore a few days later I assumed something went wrong or it fixed itself. All the things you guys have suggested so far I will be trying.

David- You are correct the only thing I am removing is the wiper switch. It is only connected through the wires, I was jsut not sure where the connections were. I will attempt to do as told. Tomorrow I'm going to try to fix the fuelk changeover, then maybe test the fuel level (assemblies?) in the gas tanks. Will post some pics and updates. thanks again!

 

by the way I have a haynes repair manual for this car that ive been using. Its been working OK for me

 

Tyler
The relay could have been jumping terminals, and the cleaning helped. Or it may have just quit. As long as it's cold out, there's no cause for concern. When the temps start climbing again, you'll know if its working. If not, I can tell you how tobypass both the relay and thermal switch to find the culprit.
My 75 XJ12 was doing the same thing once. It was in the relay. Totally different system, same principle.


If you need any help with the tank changeover switch, or sending units just let me know. I'll be glad to help talk you through it.

The Haynes manual is fine. It's a good overview of the workings of all the Series XJ6 (1-3). Not as detailed as the shop manual, but not as techical either. I find myself consulting several different manuals. Seems one fills in the blanks of another.

David

 

Ok, wiper switch is on and in good working order.

Broke the hazard switch taking off the upper steering wheel casing.

took out the fuel line to the bad gas tank (probably 15 year old gas!) smelled terrible and had gunk in it. Doesnt look too bad so i'm going to drain it via the manual. taking off the rear bumper and see what suprises await me. Ill try flushing out the bad stuff with some new gas. Throw in the new changeover valve. and it shall be road ready. Put on the tires and do a trans filter kit like you guys suggested too.

After this ill bring it to a shop to get the A/C and heat working. I'm getting excited! Thanks again,,

-Tyler

 

I had to remove a wiper switch today also. I left the upper casing in place, to avoid sucha break. A bit of a PITA to get to the upper bolt, but still a lot better than taking apart half the steering assembly.

You shouldn't need to remove the rear bumper, unless you are going to drop the entire tank, and then only the rear section of the side you are going to drop. To drain and flush just open the drain on the bottom of the tank, catching the fuel and junk of course. Reach up in there and you'll feel a filter, pull that out (replace it with new later, Ken.....) Then just dump a little more fuel in there, slosh it around, drain again, repeat......
Techically, you shouldn't have to remove anything other than the large stopper at the bottom of the tank, and the filter.
If it's never been done before, you won't see the nut. What you'll see instead is a cover. Typically I just prise mine out, ruining them. They can be saved by dropping the rear valance. Of course there are about 14 bolts/screws holding it on, and some of them can be tough. On my cars I just break them up in little pieces with a screwdriver, and throw them away. After the cover is removed, you can either drain it the slow way by a 15mm bolt on the stopper, or remove the entire stopper at once with a 21mm. Be ready to catch some nasty gas.....

There are three changeover valves in all, one in the trunk (boot) and one in each fender well. They basically open and close when voltage is applied to them. It's not a complicated system, I can explain in detail if you'd like.

You have neither heat nor AC? Getting anything from the vents when you turn the fans on?

David
EverydayXJ

 

Well, I kind of get what you are saying with the gas tank, but I dont quite know what you're talking about. Are you talking about a bolt under the car thats easily accessible and just drains the gas?

I hope just this center changeover valve will do the job.

The blower motors work, just no hot air or cold air. A/C clutch works though. The guy i bought it from said he had someone look at it and said it just needed an O-ring.

 

Hi Tyler,

I am a bit confused. What are your tanks doing exactly?

The drain for the fuel tank is almost straight down from the filler cap,behindthe rear wheel.
Why are you removing the bumper?

The AC and heat is probably the amplifier. The system is a bit confusing, even to the AC guys. It's a lot different than on "normal cars". It's a climate control system, that used temperature sensors in the car, an amplifier and servo to tell the A/C or heat when and where to blow, and a heater control valve that lets coolant into the heater matrix to supply heat.
My guess is that you have a bad amplifier, heater control valve (on the firewall in the engine compartment) and a discharged system. Replacing one won't do anything, if the other parts are non functional.

I'm not totally sure on the wheel lugs. They look similar to the ones that came on the stock "Kent" wheels. None of my cars have wires, so I'm not totally sure what your car needs.

David
EverydayXJ

 

ok, let's get technical:

that's why you needed to remove the escutcheons or "finisher covers" for the ignition and headlamp switches, so you wouldn't break the hazard switch while removing or reinstalling the upper half of the "nacelle" or "steering column cover" !! Ask me how I know that.

Once you remove those two switch "escutcheons-finishers", the upper half of the plastic cover comes off easily, ASSUMING, that you have removed the short screw located at the rear-left side of the top cover, screwed vertically up, and which most cars don't have anymore because people don't want to bother with it or because it wasn't there anymore; But leaving that screw off, results in a loose cover assembly which moves and rattles; I have seen many cars like that. Amazing that one little screw can make the difference between a car that feels like new, and one that feelslike a junker.If you look under the top half of the plastic steering column cover, you will see the brass insert where the screw goes into; Then you look on the rear-left side of the steering column, and you'll see the Bracket/leg where the screw goes through.

Then: there is a 1/16" error in the square opening for the Hazard Switch on the left side of those two cover halves! So the way to avoid stressing the switch "handle", is to tighten that little screw as you push the upper cover forward towards you, to allow maximum spacing between the Hazard Switch handle and the square opening. Practice makes perfect.

You can get a new hazard switch for around $25.00 to $45.00nowadays, 15 years ago they were $60.00. $25. isthe same price that a proper Factory Service Manual CD would have cost you. Haynes manuals are a joke but it's your money.

The auxiliary (electric) fan can be rewired to operate continuously, as in everytime the compressor kicks in. It's called The Fan Mod. Only trouble with that, is that you want the opposite in Winter, i.e., No aux. fan at all. And during Summer it can be very annoying because those fans are noisy, not to mention theyput a heavy loadon the alternator, something which you would inmediately notice in the voltmeter gauge reading. I modified mine and then un-modified it.My car does not overheat anyway.The "Mod" costs around $3. or lessfor theparts needed. The main part is a specific Diode required.

Jose