Ok here we go... got into the trunk and located the change over switch / solenoid. it does have power to it and I can hear it trying to work or something. tapped on it with a screw driver.. nope. However now that I see it and realize how it works, gas flows straight on the drivers side tank and the swich must close off that section so it can feed from the passenger side. Now where I'm confused... how does the gas gauge come into play? seems like that would be a seperate issue. I assume when I select the passenger tank it should read gas in the tank regardless of the change over solenoid working or not. I'm guessing if i replace the solenoid, the gas gauge will still not work. Also there is no corrosion in the trunk at all, VERY clean and all wiring looks perfect. I just hate the replace the solenoid and find out it wasn't the issue. almost seems as if the sending unit AND the change over solenoid are bad.
Could I reverse the hoses ? So the passenger side tank is selected straight through and drivers side is attached where the passenger side is now ?

 

well damn ! I have 3 of those 4 symptoms all the time.

 

Good that it has voltage and you can hear something. The valve is trying to work. Might wanna take it off and soak it in some solvent or carb cleaner or whatever. Sometimes the electrical portion works but the mechanical end of things....the actual valve...is simply stuck





The gas gauge circuit is totally different. The change over system and the gas gauge share the same switch but the switch is partioned, so to speak. While one half of the switch is applying/removing voltage to the solenoids the other half of the switch is connecting either the right or the left tank sending unit to the fuel gauge






Entirely plausible





No. Then you'd be drawing fuel from one tank but unused fuel will be returned to the *other* tank via the operation of return valves

Cheers
DD

 

Ok, so hopefully Ill have a minute tomorrow to yank it off and un-stick it. from there if I can at least get gas to flow from tank 2, Ill worry about the gas gauge after Thanx again. will report results asap.

 

haven't had any time yet. but on a side note, is there a fuse for the power door locks ? none work. in fact if you manually try and lock them, only 1 stays locked, the other 3 just spring back to unlocked.

 

almost forgot. on the dash, center panel behind steering wheel, (idiot light cluster) is there any easy access to the bulbs behind there ? my low coolant light is driving me nuts, the wire to the sending unit is bad (no voltage) and rather than trace the wire, I was debating on pulling the bulb since it has a temp gauge anyway. it's the bottom left light, and I dont know if that piece prys off or not and I don't want to break it. cant seem to access it from underneath through the fuse panel door. Thanx Again, and Happy Holidays All !!!!!!!

 

Warning light cluster: as I recall the black outer frame with the colored icons can simply be pried off with a small screwdriver or such to reveal the bulbs underneath.

Cheers
DD

 

Beautiful, was hoping that was the case. You the Man Doug. Thanx Again.

 

I use flossing string doubled up to pry it off, it's easy, a screwdriver might scratch the lacquer finish.

 

Got that all fixed, as well as the aux power source under the wheel today. any thoughts on the power door locks ? (-) see above (-)
>
(______________)

 

Unless yours is one on the last built (VIN 470xxx or later, roughly) there's an inline fuse below the glovebox on (as I recall) brown and brown/blue wires. Look near the right side fuse panel. The last few thousand cars had a regular fuse box fuse instead on an inline fuse

Remove the door trims and lubricate the lock linkages. At least half the time that's all you'll need to do to bring everything back to life.

If the fuse is blown you'll naturally want to replace it but, if so, wait until after you've lubricated the linkages

Post back if no joy

Cheers
DD

 

here's a bit of info. on the Kiekert door lock system from the Shop Manual:

 

Thanx Guys, and Merry Christmas to you and yours !!!!!!! will post my results asap

 

So.... noticed a bit of a low speed wobble last week, been real busy so I figured I'd check it when i could. Started to get a bit worse, so i jacked up the front, grabbed the front passenger tire and OUCH... steel belt ripped out on the inner edge ! tie rod is tight, but top bottom she was loose, didnt want to lay in the snow, but my thought is ball joint, however it sounded more like wheel bearing, so i lifted all 4 and they ALL are loose top bottom, but this one was much worse than the other 3. So now I'm leaning more twards wheel bearing. But either way, I think I'll just do both ball joints and wheel bearings all around. (might as well make it fun) luckily she came with a full size spare which will get me by for now until the parts arrive.

Other than that the holidays were great, and all else is good. Had to junk my 1997 Ford Taurus (such a shame....... nope) blew the head gasket. But since i paid $550 for it, drove it for a year, and junked it for $335, I guess I made out alright. I do miss the 25mpg over the 15-17 the Jag gives me, but it is worth it to roll in a Jag. Hope all had happy holidays. Will post results asap