About Climate Control
#1
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I read a few forum and internet posts about the hideous complex task of replacing elements of the HAVC air condition system on the XJ6. Most of the writing was about dealing with the Series 3 with air conditioning systems, coolants and complex relationships between the engine space and the air bender / heater elements. With a Series Two containing just a heater and no gassed coolant I assume the task is simpler. Using the air bender to circulate heat would it matter exactly what produced that heat, i.e. could a more generic modern heater unit be employed to the same effect?
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LnrB (04-11-2021)
#3
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Without knowing for certain it all looks in better order than expect.
I assume the copper pipes to the engine bay mean that the original air conditioning heater was water-powered by hot water from the engine coolant system? I assume that this need not be the case and an electrical-only 12v element could be used if a suitable one could be found.
I assume the copper pipes to the engine bay mean that the original air conditioning heater was water-powered by hot water from the engine coolant system? I assume that this need not be the case and an electrical-only 12v element could be used if a suitable one could be found.
#4
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You have successfully Removed the MATRIX! The Magic Box where it all happens!
I'm Impressed! I've tried to removed one of these more than once and failed.
This unit is not controlled by hot water but by vacuum, which itself is controlled by the electrical Servo.
The Servo is a little Rube Goldberg unit, low behind the Right cheek panel, which, with a small motor and an array of cams and vacuum switches controls the operation in a purely mechanical manner.
This last photo is one of the mechanically controlled vacuum switches. The main vacuum comes from the remaining white "T" from the engine, the little funnel thingys with the rods are the actual switching mechanism which is driven by cams in the electrical Servo.
As each cam comes around, it pushes on a rounded nail-like rod at the other side, which opens one of these vacuum switches, which in turn activates vacuum can/diaphragms which operate various flaps. When the cam moves away, a spring closes the valve which shuts off vacuum and the flaps, spring loaded as they are, move back into their default position, usually closed.
From what I can see there is nothing wrong with the vacuum switch.
As you're intent on replacing this whole unit, you probably might not need the Servo either, unless there is another way to control flaps on the replacement unit.
(';')
I'm Impressed! I've tried to removed one of these more than once and failed.
This unit is not controlled by hot water but by vacuum, which itself is controlled by the electrical Servo.
The Servo is a little Rube Goldberg unit, low behind the Right cheek panel, which, with a small motor and an array of cams and vacuum switches controls the operation in a purely mechanical manner.
This last photo is one of the mechanically controlled vacuum switches. The main vacuum comes from the remaining white "T" from the engine, the little funnel thingys with the rods are the actual switching mechanism which is driven by cams in the electrical Servo.
As each cam comes around, it pushes on a rounded nail-like rod at the other side, which opens one of these vacuum switches, which in turn activates vacuum can/diaphragms which operate various flaps. When the cam moves away, a spring closes the valve which shuts off vacuum and the flaps, spring loaded as they are, move back into their default position, usually closed.
From what I can see there is nothing wrong with the vacuum switch.
As you're intent on replacing this whole unit, you probably might not need the Servo either, unless there is another way to control flaps on the replacement unit.
(';')
Last edited by LnrB; 04-11-2021 at 09:36 AM.
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#5
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#10
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Pretty much.
The current draw would require a huge output alternator just for 1st thoughts, and then it got too hard for my grey matter.
That Delanair 2 system is GOOD, reliable (except for those that has been fifddled with), and none of mine have given any real grief.
The amps can be iffy, but replacements were, and still are, out there, and thats about all any of mine have ever needed very early in the ownership, and then never touched again.
The current draw would require a huge output alternator just for 1st thoughts, and then it got too hard for my grey matter.
That Delanair 2 system is GOOD, reliable (except for those that has been fifddled with), and none of mine have given any real grief.
The amps can be iffy, but replacements were, and still are, out there, and thats about all any of mine have ever needed very early in the ownership, and then never touched again.
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#11
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#12
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#13
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Looks like a fan speed resistor...although the design is a bit different than I'm accustom to seeing
Cheers
DD
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