Aftermarket presence & support for the series 1,2 & 3 XJ chassis
#81
Brake parts,
Centric makes drilled and slotted rotors for the XJ Series for the front and rear (Dana rear) i don't know about the Gerhing. I have a set of Brembo (OEM) rotors for the a Gerhing rear end, I'd like to unload. i don't have any use for them.
there are loads of stuff on the web for XJ's
check out Jag-Lovers.com as a good starting place.
I got my rotors and calipers from Rockauto.com cheap. Really cheap
Centric makes drilled and slotted rotors for the XJ Series for the front and rear (Dana rear) i don't know about the Gerhing. I have a set of Brembo (OEM) rotors for the a Gerhing rear end, I'd like to unload. i don't have any use for them.
there are loads of stuff on the web for XJ's
check out Jag-Lovers.com as a good starting place.
I got my rotors and calipers from Rockauto.com cheap. Really cheap
#82
For Sale XJ Series 3 parts car
I bought a Series 3 XJ6 online via ebay. Big Mistake!
Anyway, I was sold as a daily driver / a restore project - newly rebuilt engine & transmission, when it arrived I was severely disappointed. It's a rust bucket. a Fred Flintstone car!
Everywhere Series 3's are known to rust, it has rust or rusted out completely. Yes the engine is newly rebuilt - Transmission a bit hard to tell. I drove the car briefly and it was a strong runner - That part I was excited about. But then it died when it was introduced to a hill. I live on a hill.
I'm suspecting the inertia switch or crap in the gas tank. I'm so discusted about the situation, I don't even want to bother with it. It does have spark, can't hear the fuel pump when click on. That's why I'm thinking it's the inertia switch; or crap in the fuel tank.
The car is all there except the AM/FM tape Player, every bit and peice (except those that rusted away)
Areas of Rust:
The rear valance leading edge (common),
left hood hing bracket (common).
Trunk floor near the rear (common)
front and rear Passengers side or (UK and Japan Drivers Side) A and C pillars (very common)
A/C drain didn't get checked so the Right floorpan has holes.
Rocker pannels both sides
Passenger Door bottom (Right Side)
The wood and leather are rough, but with a some TLC they can be brought back to life.
The headliner is sagging too.
All of these parts are available (in the UK) occasionally on eBay or forum sites.
This is why I'm calling it a parts car. A bit too much rust for me; and in the US the replacement sheet metal is a bit too expensive.
I have a line on either a Series 1 SWB body all the sheet metal is there (and yes the A and C pillers have rust) or a nearly complete '86 Series 3 VDP
I say nearly complete because the engine compartment is pretty bare. The interior is chucked in; I mean Litterly chucked in. So the swap is a good 90 day project.
I have a '88 XJS, '02 XJR-100 & '96 XJ12, '70 1/2 RS Camaro, '96 Impala SS which provide me an endless list of projects so I'm not sure if I'm up to taking on another in the near future. I'm putting this up for sale, someone out there may need the bits on this car and a new engine for that matter. Or have the time and skill to put this one back to it's former glory.
I bought the car for $3025.00 Yes I know... Don't even say it.
Shipping was 1,200.00. Again, yes I am very aware...
Doing the math, I have $4,225.00 into this marvelous example of Brit cars in the mid-west and would like to recoup as much of the investment as I can. So Make me an offer
If your interested, I can acquire the '86 VDP for an extra $1500.00
If the car were to be parted out, a good 10 or 15k could be made if so desired. I'm the kinda of person who is all about putting together, so I have a really hard time parting cars out.
I can provide more pictures upon request
360-790-4553
mark@infosystemsltd.com
Anyway, I was sold as a daily driver / a restore project - newly rebuilt engine & transmission, when it arrived I was severely disappointed. It's a rust bucket. a Fred Flintstone car!
Everywhere Series 3's are known to rust, it has rust or rusted out completely. Yes the engine is newly rebuilt - Transmission a bit hard to tell. I drove the car briefly and it was a strong runner - That part I was excited about. But then it died when it was introduced to a hill. I live on a hill.
I'm suspecting the inertia switch or crap in the gas tank. I'm so discusted about the situation, I don't even want to bother with it. It does have spark, can't hear the fuel pump when click on. That's why I'm thinking it's the inertia switch; or crap in the fuel tank.
The car is all there except the AM/FM tape Player, every bit and peice (except those that rusted away)
Areas of Rust:
The rear valance leading edge (common),
left hood hing bracket (common).
Trunk floor near the rear (common)
front and rear Passengers side or (UK and Japan Drivers Side) A and C pillars (very common)
A/C drain didn't get checked so the Right floorpan has holes.
Rocker pannels both sides
Passenger Door bottom (Right Side)
The wood and leather are rough, but with a some TLC they can be brought back to life.
The headliner is sagging too.
All of these parts are available (in the UK) occasionally on eBay or forum sites.
This is why I'm calling it a parts car. A bit too much rust for me; and in the US the replacement sheet metal is a bit too expensive.
I have a line on either a Series 1 SWB body all the sheet metal is there (and yes the A and C pillers have rust) or a nearly complete '86 Series 3 VDP
I say nearly complete because the engine compartment is pretty bare. The interior is chucked in; I mean Litterly chucked in. So the swap is a good 90 day project.
I have a '88 XJS, '02 XJR-100 & '96 XJ12, '70 1/2 RS Camaro, '96 Impala SS which provide me an endless list of projects so I'm not sure if I'm up to taking on another in the near future. I'm putting this up for sale, someone out there may need the bits on this car and a new engine for that matter. Or have the time and skill to put this one back to it's former glory.
I bought the car for $3025.00 Yes I know... Don't even say it.
Shipping was 1,200.00. Again, yes I am very aware...
Doing the math, I have $4,225.00 into this marvelous example of Brit cars in the mid-west and would like to recoup as much of the investment as I can. So Make me an offer
If your interested, I can acquire the '86 VDP for an extra $1500.00
If the car were to be parted out, a good 10 or 15k could be made if so desired. I'm the kinda of person who is all about putting together, so I have a really hard time parting cars out.
I can provide more pictures upon request
360-790-4553
mark@infosystemsltd.com
Last edited by MarkLee; 04-17-2014 at 11:55 AM. Reason: Sorry about the typo's
#84
#88
Update!
The suspension is great for a street car, but we are going to make some revisions for a drifting application.
This car is bananas.
We get wheel spin in 4th gear, without clutch kicking.
Boost builds to 1 bar @ 2500 RPM, power peaks a little early, but its because of the cams.
We haven't torn into the motor at all, so there will be some trickery when we do.
The suspension is great for a street car, but we are going to make some revisions for a drifting application.
This car is bananas.
We get wheel spin in 4th gear, without clutch kicking.
Boost builds to 1 bar @ 2500 RPM, power peaks a little early, but its because of the cams.
We haven't torn into the motor at all, so there will be some trickery when we do.
#90
Join Date: Jul 2010
Location: Austin tx and Daytona FL.
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Yikes, you can break the tires loose in 4th gear!!!! just on boost?
what will happen when you put some sticky rubber under it, and get it to hookup?
usually they rip the cage sub frame out of the car,(seen it happen more than once), jag XJ rear suspension was never designed for hard acceleration, and adding types of drag bars have a tough job holding things in place!
time will tell.
what will happen when you put some sticky rubber under it, and get it to hookup?
usually they rip the cage sub frame out of the car,(seen it happen more than once), jag XJ rear suspension was never designed for hard acceleration, and adding types of drag bars have a tough job holding things in place!
time will tell.
#91
Yikes, you can break the tires loose in 4th gear!!!! just on boost?
what will happen when you put some sticky rubber under it, and get it to hookup?
usually they rip the cage sub frame out of the car,(seen it happen more than once), jag XJ rear suspension was never designed for hard acceleration, and adding types of drag bars have a tough job holding things in place!
time will tell.
what will happen when you put some sticky rubber under it, and get it to hookup?
usually they rip the cage sub frame out of the car,(seen it happen more than once), jag XJ rear suspension was never designed for hard acceleration, and adding types of drag bars have a tough job holding things in place!
time will tell.
This is a far cry from the original Jaguar suspension.
we haven't put sticky tires on, because this is a drift car (we want the rear end to break loose & comply.
its too much fun.
body work is on the horizon.
#92
The following users liked this post:
icsamerica (06-10-2014)
#93
#95
Can't post pictures anymore, in it's current state.
We have a private test day, where we can drive it at the complete limit & photos/ videos will be taken then.
Things I need to look into currently are:
Paint/ body
Replace the windshield
Things I need to look for very soon:
Possibly a BIGGER turbo (current turbo makes 14 PSI @ 30% throttle opening @ 2600 RPM
Finding a spare set of cams, so I can weld/ grind a more aggressive profile
V12 ITB's (any info or even a good point in the right direction would be a HUUUUUGE help)
We have a private test day, where we can drive it at the complete limit & photos/ videos will be taken then.
Things I need to look into currently are:
Paint/ body
Replace the windshield
Things I need to look for very soon:
Possibly a BIGGER turbo (current turbo makes 14 PSI @ 30% throttle opening @ 2600 RPM
Finding a spare set of cams, so I can weld/ grind a more aggressive profile
V12 ITB's (any info or even a good point in the right direction would be a HUUUUUGE help)
#97
What kit are you referring to?
Suspension? (yes the kit will go to market) it will be in the more expensive side, because you will be buying the suspension conversion & it will require coilovers (2x considerable expenses @ 1 time)
But it is worth it.
Turbo kit? (possibly, but making manifolds is labor intensive)
Suspension? (yes the kit will go to market) it will be in the more expensive side, because you will be buying the suspension conversion & it will require coilovers (2x considerable expenses @ 1 time)
But it is worth it.
Turbo kit? (possibly, but making manifolds is labor intensive)
#98
The power is peaky on this motor & we are trying to figure out how to broaden the power curve.
The problem is, we are trying to kill this damn motor, so we can study its failure points.
BUT THIS DAMN CAT JUST WON'T DIE!!!!
It just keeps pulling.
Anyone who said this motor is weak/ frail is ill informed, it's very durable.
The power peaking is actually good (for race application) but we just need to find out how to make the car more drivable for the average street user.
We weighed the car & with stripped interior, new wheels & mods, it comes in @ 3200 lbs
The problem is, we are trying to kill this damn motor, so we can study its failure points.
BUT THIS DAMN CAT JUST WON'T DIE!!!!
It just keeps pulling.
Anyone who said this motor is weak/ frail is ill informed, it's very durable.
The power peaking is actually good (for race application) but we just need to find out how to make the car more drivable for the average street user.
We weighed the car & with stripped interior, new wheels & mods, it comes in @ 3200 lbs
#99