Alaskan XJ6/LT1
#181
Join Date: Mar 2008
Location: Pacific Northwest USA
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LnrB (01-25-2022)
#185
#187
Any current feelings of more expensive than you thought will go away once you start driving it! One of my lines to prospective boat owners is that "At some time you are going to have all those rocking chair stories, and NOT ONCE will the subject of money spent come up." I'm sure you should expect a "sorting out" period in the Spring, but all your hard work will pay off. Great job; way to go!
Bill
Bill
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LT1 jaguar (01-26-2022)
#188
Join Date: Mar 2014
Location: Tehama County, California, USA
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Or, "Just a hair over $100" and let their imagination add the zeros.
(';')
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LnrB (01-26-2022)
#191
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LT1 jaguar (01-26-2022)
#192
Join Date: Jul 2012
Location: Walnut Creek, California
Posts: 6,796
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#193
#194
Join Date: Mar 2014
Location: Tehama County, California, USA
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My family would be the LAST to know! It would only give then further opportunity to criticize on my life choices.
Husband has a vague idea (quite a lot was his money after all) but he wouldn't remember to tell anyone anyway.
(';')
Husband has a vague idea (quite a lot was his money after all) but he wouldn't remember to tell anyone anyway.
(';')
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#195
Dave
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#197
Ian, here are some pictures.
Left Front
Left Front_Detail
Left Rear
Right Front
Right Front_Detail
Right Rear_Detail
I had to do this twice, I will try to explain the way I went about the construction.
There is enough travel up/down for me, I just wanted to straighten out my legs more. The mistake I made the first attempt was adding pieces of 1/4"x1 1/2" flat bar "extenders" between the seat base frame pieces and the slotted seat slider pieces. By doing this, all new holes had to be drilled/tapped/bolted in the two base frame pieces. By doing it that way, the left side of the front seat skirt hit the base frame, it's much lower than the right side of the skirt. In the stock position, the skirt stops just in front of the base frames when the seat is all the way back. If you just move the seat/slider portion back, the skirt will still hit the front of the base frame and you will have gained nothing except damaged upholstery.
So after studying the problem way longer than most people would have to, I started again by putting the "extender" pieces between the base frame pieces and the floor mounts. That way the base frame and seat slider stay in the same relative position to each other and I just mount the whole shmooie 2" farther back. To my way of thinking, the best way was to use 1/4" x 1 1/2" flat bar on each side being long enough to attach in the stock floor anchor positions plus 2". Then attach the seat/slider/base frame to the extender pieces 2" back from the front.
The least pleasant part comes when you begin to see how little room there is to get at a couple of the anchor bolts, only now you want to use that same bolt hole in the base frame, but it's 2"+ farther back along the trans tunnel and door threshold. I don't mind drilling/tapping screw holes, so there are a few of them in my example.
Starting with the "Left Front" picture, the first FH (flat head) screw is in stock anchor location and attaches to front of the extender piece (same both sides). The next attachment is the nut you see holding the front of the base frame to the extender (same both sides). First tip: the electric lift has to be in the full up position to do this job more easily. At this point, I drilled/tapped for a 5/16-24 bolt and counter-sunk the bottom of the extender piece and used a FH bolt from the bottom, sticking up above the top to create a stud. I used Loc-Tite on this bolt to hold it in place (same both sides).
The "Left Rear" pic shows a simple 5/16-24 bolt through the stock hole in the base frame piece and threaded into the extender 2" back from stock position (same both sides). What it doesn't show is how I attached the rear of the extenders at the stock anchor points. Same process of drill/tap/counter-sink a 5/16-24 hole, but on the top of the extender and use a FH screw/nut through stock anchor holes. This becomes a "blind attachment" now, meaning you can't get to or see it without separating the base frame from the extender piece, make sure you snug'em up good (same both sides).
Recline Lever_Rear Position
Some grinding on the recline lever is a must, interference at the B-pillar is just too severe.
Dave
Left Front
Left Front_Detail
Left Rear
Right Front
Right Front_Detail
Right Rear_Detail
I had to do this twice, I will try to explain the way I went about the construction.
There is enough travel up/down for me, I just wanted to straighten out my legs more. The mistake I made the first attempt was adding pieces of 1/4"x1 1/2" flat bar "extenders" between the seat base frame pieces and the slotted seat slider pieces. By doing this, all new holes had to be drilled/tapped/bolted in the two base frame pieces. By doing it that way, the left side of the front seat skirt hit the base frame, it's much lower than the right side of the skirt. In the stock position, the skirt stops just in front of the base frames when the seat is all the way back. If you just move the seat/slider portion back, the skirt will still hit the front of the base frame and you will have gained nothing except damaged upholstery.
So after studying the problem way longer than most people would have to, I started again by putting the "extender" pieces between the base frame pieces and the floor mounts. That way the base frame and seat slider stay in the same relative position to each other and I just mount the whole shmooie 2" farther back. To my way of thinking, the best way was to use 1/4" x 1 1/2" flat bar on each side being long enough to attach in the stock floor anchor positions plus 2". Then attach the seat/slider/base frame to the extender pieces 2" back from the front.
The least pleasant part comes when you begin to see how little room there is to get at a couple of the anchor bolts, only now you want to use that same bolt hole in the base frame, but it's 2"+ farther back along the trans tunnel and door threshold. I don't mind drilling/tapping screw holes, so there are a few of them in my example.
Starting with the "Left Front" picture, the first FH (flat head) screw is in stock anchor location and attaches to front of the extender piece (same both sides). The next attachment is the nut you see holding the front of the base frame to the extender (same both sides). First tip: the electric lift has to be in the full up position to do this job more easily. At this point, I drilled/tapped for a 5/16-24 bolt and counter-sunk the bottom of the extender piece and used a FH bolt from the bottom, sticking up above the top to create a stud. I used Loc-Tite on this bolt to hold it in place (same both sides).
The "Left Rear" pic shows a simple 5/16-24 bolt through the stock hole in the base frame piece and threaded into the extender 2" back from stock position (same both sides). What it doesn't show is how I attached the rear of the extenders at the stock anchor points. Same process of drill/tap/counter-sink a 5/16-24 hole, but on the top of the extender and use a FH screw/nut through stock anchor holes. This becomes a "blind attachment" now, meaning you can't get to or see it without separating the base frame from the extender piece, make sure you snug'em up good (same both sides).
Recline Lever_Rear Position
Some grinding on the recline lever is a must, interference at the B-pillar is just too severe.
Dave
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LnrB (01-26-2022)
#198
Join Date: Mar 2014
Location: Tehama County, California, USA
Posts: 25,657
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I try to live by that.
(';')
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LT1 jaguar (01-27-2022)
#199
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LT1 jaguar (01-27-2022)
#200
Hello folks, I survived the operating room and am back home doing my best to cope. Wearing an immobilizing arm sling which forces me to sleep in only one position with my arm sticking straight out in front of me is the worst. Cannot move move shoulder for 2 weeks before follow-up doctor visit, that borders on inhumane!
The weather is pleasant, but snowing a little every day. The big indicator that spring has headed our way is the addition of a couple of hours of daylight.
Dave
The weather is pleasant, but snowing a little every day. The big indicator that spring has headed our way is the addition of a couple of hours of daylight.
Dave
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