Alaskan XJ6/LT1
#141
The PCM is definitely a 94. The PO gave me the name of the person who recalibrated the PCM to function with the overall changes that were made to the engine.
Like I said in my post, I won't know what I have or whether I would like the tune until I get the car running.
I agree with the notion of Sequential vs Batch fire regarding fuel but I can always revert to using the MAF and have the PCM reprogrammed. That is a couple of weeks down the road.
I took a break from the mechanical work on the car for now. Doing some work on the interior.
Like I said in my post, I won't know what I have or whether I would like the tune until I get the car running.
I agree with the notion of Sequential vs Batch fire regarding fuel but I can always revert to using the MAF and have the PCM reprogrammed. That is a couple of weeks down the road.
I took a break from the mechanical work on the car for now. Doing some work on the interior.
#142
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#143
Hi folks, I come bearing decent news.....I'm having a "key-turning" ceremony tomorrow. 34 months since I drug it home.
I have purposely held off on updates because it was all just mundane nuts and bolts stuff, until late last week. After I had the local towing and recovery outfit haul the car to the muffler shop and back, I started checking things in more detail. Found a pin in one of the PCM connectors that was pushed down in the connector body and was able to move it back where it belonged
Priming the power steering system brought a major headache, a big leak. Wrestled the rack out and on the bench where I found that I had cut an O-ring when I put it together, simple enough to fix. Nah, just kidding. No one here abouts has square rings, had to order 10ea from local bearing supply shop ($5), but a 10 day wait. Ruined 4 of the new rings before I got serious and made a real project out of it. Easing the sharp edge of the rack tube and polishing did the trick on the 5th one. No leaks.
Next to check was the fuel system. Bought a new gas can and put in 5gal of 90 octane. No leaks from the RIGHT tank and I felt everything should be right with the world. Not even close. Being my first Jaguar, I had no experience with the finer points of the change-over valve---now I do. But just to be clear, the finer points of that valve have
been mentioned in the past, I just didn't think it was important enough for me to remember. Fuel pressure gauge connected, touched pump prime wire to the battery and could hear the faint whir of the pump. Great, but no pressure. Go back to the boot and give everything a good looking-at. Prime wire/battery again, but no pressure. Back to the boot. Something's wrong, trouble-shoot, take in-put hose off pump, dry as a bone. My shut-off valve is open, how could a new filter be plugged when no fuel had never been through it, change-over valve clicked when I turned the key on and off. Took all the hoses and filter and change-over valve out and on the work bench. Poked a stick in both ends of the change-over valve (gently), the pintle moved easily and returned under spring pressure. I slightly opened the shut-off valve and fuel came out. After hooking the change-over valve back to 12v and sucking on the three connections, I discovered that the valve defaults to the LEFT tank when the key is off, leaving the right tank cut off. I of course was testing the pump with the key off, why would I leave the key on??? Key on, 42lbs of pressure.
Yesterday and today spent putting the radiator/condenser/cooling fan module in, all hoses hooked up, and 3gal of coolant poured in radiator. No leaks. I have 4 new tires ready to put on tomorrow and then a final check of everything. I'll post back tomorrow, hopefully with good news.
Couple of pictures.
Dave
P.S. Darren, take a look at how I attached the wide-mouthed intake hose to the filter. Made a couple of filler pieces to let a clamp apply pressure to top and bottom of hose. Pretty easy and I'm happy with it.
I have purposely held off on updates because it was all just mundane nuts and bolts stuff, until late last week. After I had the local towing and recovery outfit haul the car to the muffler shop and back, I started checking things in more detail. Found a pin in one of the PCM connectors that was pushed down in the connector body and was able to move it back where it belonged
Priming the power steering system brought a major headache, a big leak. Wrestled the rack out and on the bench where I found that I had cut an O-ring when I put it together, simple enough to fix. Nah, just kidding. No one here abouts has square rings, had to order 10ea from local bearing supply shop ($5), but a 10 day wait. Ruined 4 of the new rings before I got serious and made a real project out of it. Easing the sharp edge of the rack tube and polishing did the trick on the 5th one. No leaks.
Next to check was the fuel system. Bought a new gas can and put in 5gal of 90 octane. No leaks from the RIGHT tank and I felt everything should be right with the world. Not even close. Being my first Jaguar, I had no experience with the finer points of the change-over valve---now I do. But just to be clear, the finer points of that valve have
been mentioned in the past, I just didn't think it was important enough for me to remember. Fuel pressure gauge connected, touched pump prime wire to the battery and could hear the faint whir of the pump. Great, but no pressure. Go back to the boot and give everything a good looking-at. Prime wire/battery again, but no pressure. Back to the boot. Something's wrong, trouble-shoot, take in-put hose off pump, dry as a bone. My shut-off valve is open, how could a new filter be plugged when no fuel had never been through it, change-over valve clicked when I turned the key on and off. Took all the hoses and filter and change-over valve out and on the work bench. Poked a stick in both ends of the change-over valve (gently), the pintle moved easily and returned under spring pressure. I slightly opened the shut-off valve and fuel came out. After hooking the change-over valve back to 12v and sucking on the three connections, I discovered that the valve defaults to the LEFT tank when the key is off, leaving the right tank cut off. I of course was testing the pump with the key off, why would I leave the key on??? Key on, 42lbs of pressure.
Yesterday and today spent putting the radiator/condenser/cooling fan module in, all hoses hooked up, and 3gal of coolant poured in radiator. No leaks. I have 4 new tires ready to put on tomorrow and then a final check of everything. I'll post back tomorrow, hopefully with good news.
Couple of pictures.
Dave
P.S. Darren, take a look at how I attached the wide-mouthed intake hose to the filter. Made a couple of filler pieces to let a clamp apply pressure to top and bottom of hose. Pretty easy and I'm happy with it.
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#144
Dave
Lovely looking engine bay, and a superbly made exhaust. Just a word of warning, Carry a spare pump, they do not like being run dry, even for a few seconds, and they fail soonish afterwards in many cases, including mine in the middle of one of France's largest cities.
Lovely looking engine bay, and a superbly made exhaust. Just a word of warning, Carry a spare pump, they do not like being run dry, even for a few seconds, and they fail soonish afterwards in many cases, including mine in the middle of one of France's largest cities.
Last edited by Greg in France; 09-22-2021 at 04:16 AM.
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LT1 jaguar (09-22-2021)
#145
That very same thought crossed my mind after the second dry run. I wasn't sure how long it would take to fill the dry fuel system and filters, but I'm sure I ran the pump longer than necessary. I will order a new pump before I take the car on the road, probably next summer now. Thanks for the comment.
Dave
Dave
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Greg in France (09-22-2021)
#146
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#152
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LT1 jaguar (09-22-2021)
#153
Well, I have good news, irritating news, and scary news.....I'll start with the good news. It started quicker than my daily drivers!! Couple of spins and it was running. The intake is noisier than I thought it would be and I can hear the rockers, everything mechanical sounds good. The tach was even very close according to my ear. So much for the good news.
Almost 10min of running at fast idle and it seemed a little hot, right on cue the radiator started spewing out the over flow tube. Shut it off. I let it cool off and started investigating the reason. Mixed with the coolant on the floor was a growing puddle of red oil, ATF. I had a leaking transmission line at the radiator, had to tighten the upper hose more than usual, but it stopped. I suspect a less than perfect factory flare on the fitting. Next I tested the electric water pump as I suspected it might not have operated and sure enough, I had 12v to the trigger and 12v constant voltage, but nothing on the output pin. This was a special Delayed Start relay with adjustable timer that I found so I could delay the water pump 5-10sec after the engine started. POS had not turned on the WP. I replaced it with another regular relay and began to test the cooling fans. I had no 12v to the controller, didn't take me long to find the empty master fuse holder, somebody pulled the fuse and put it in the cabinet for safe keeping. Filled the radiator again and fired it up, ran nice and cool. So much for the irritating news.
I had pre-lubed the engine three time while I was putting it together and each time I wasn't impressed with the oil pressure. I rationalized that it was because I sucking oil from the oil pan through a 3/8" hose instead of the 3/4" pickup tube. Only getting about half the pressure I wanted. I had my gauge tapped into a galley on the first startup and just about cried when it started, 30lbs cold. I knew the engine wouldn't be hurt with that kind of pressure, but something was wrong. I went through the oil system in my mind and knew that I did everything correctly, yet there it was. I changed the oil filter in case the very small size might have gotten clogged with assembly lube, I thought that would be a stretch though. At operating temp, I had about 12lbs and turned it off. I was getting a little sick to my stomach about then and wondered if I had it in me to take everything back apart. The only thing that hadn't be tested was my test oil pressure gauge, by the way, the gauge on the dash was showing 0psi even with a "Jaguar sender", this belongs up in the irritating news paragraph. Called my Son at work and asked him to bring his oil pressure test gauge home with him. Screwed his hose into the galley and started it up. 50lbs at idle, 60lbs at about 1500rpm on still warm oil. The weight of the world lifted from my shoulders!! Enough said, all the other irritating things can be fixed without much trouble.
Cycled the rack, put about 9qts in the transmission until I can run it through the gears and called it a night (happily). The exhaust is just a little louder than I wanted, but it is informative.
Dave
Almost 10min of running at fast idle and it seemed a little hot, right on cue the radiator started spewing out the over flow tube. Shut it off. I let it cool off and started investigating the reason. Mixed with the coolant on the floor was a growing puddle of red oil, ATF. I had a leaking transmission line at the radiator, had to tighten the upper hose more than usual, but it stopped. I suspect a less than perfect factory flare on the fitting. Next I tested the electric water pump as I suspected it might not have operated and sure enough, I had 12v to the trigger and 12v constant voltage, but nothing on the output pin. This was a special Delayed Start relay with adjustable timer that I found so I could delay the water pump 5-10sec after the engine started. POS had not turned on the WP. I replaced it with another regular relay and began to test the cooling fans. I had no 12v to the controller, didn't take me long to find the empty master fuse holder, somebody pulled the fuse and put it in the cabinet for safe keeping. Filled the radiator again and fired it up, ran nice and cool. So much for the irritating news.
I had pre-lubed the engine three time while I was putting it together and each time I wasn't impressed with the oil pressure. I rationalized that it was because I sucking oil from the oil pan through a 3/8" hose instead of the 3/4" pickup tube. Only getting about half the pressure I wanted. I had my gauge tapped into a galley on the first startup and just about cried when it started, 30lbs cold. I knew the engine wouldn't be hurt with that kind of pressure, but something was wrong. I went through the oil system in my mind and knew that I did everything correctly, yet there it was. I changed the oil filter in case the very small size might have gotten clogged with assembly lube, I thought that would be a stretch though. At operating temp, I had about 12lbs and turned it off. I was getting a little sick to my stomach about then and wondered if I had it in me to take everything back apart. The only thing that hadn't be tested was my test oil pressure gauge, by the way, the gauge on the dash was showing 0psi even with a "Jaguar sender", this belongs up in the irritating news paragraph. Called my Son at work and asked him to bring his oil pressure test gauge home with him. Screwed his hose into the galley and started it up. 50lbs at idle, 60lbs at about 1500rpm on still warm oil. The weight of the world lifted from my shoulders!! Enough said, all the other irritating things can be fixed without much trouble.
Cycled the rack, put about 9qts in the transmission until I can run it through the gears and called it a night (happily). The exhaust is just a little louder than I wanted, but it is informative.
Dave
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#154
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LT1 jaguar (09-23-2021)
#155
Join Date: Mar 2015
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LT1 jaguar (09-23-2021)
#156
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#157
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