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Hello:
I own a 1976 XJ6C and it has severely corroded gas tanks.
I have tried rebuilding the bottom of one tank by brazing in steel patches but really the car would be best served with new gastanks.
Is such a part available? FYI, The car originally had the in-tank submerged pumps.
Lots of patches held on with braze
Last edited by JensenHealey; 01-02-2019 at 06:27 PM.
Reason: mis-spelling
lol unless they avail reproduction no. There are restoration services you gas tanks and not only do they clean and repair but can spray a coating inside to stop corrosion and be better than a new tank. Welcome to water in fuel from our wonderful ethanol blends that absorb moisture out of the air. Google for info
lol unless they avail reproduction no. There are restoration services you gas tanks and not only do they clean and repair but can spray a coating inside to stop corrosion and be better than a new tank.
In my neck o' the woods there are a couple radiator shops that repair tanks, including the inside coating you describe, if needed
Welcome to water in fuel from our wonderful ethanol blends that absorb moisture out of the air. Google for info
Probably not the primary or most common cause in the car of these old XJs with saddle tanks.
Heck, I live in the wet pacific Northwest and E10 fuel has been standard issue for 20-25 years and never had a problem with tank rust on any car.....except on one of my several Jags. What happens is mud and debris, kicked up from the rear wheels, eventually accumulates in the tank compartment...clogging the drain holes. You end up with the bottom 1/3 of the tanks encased in damp crud....year after year after year !
Next, the drains in the filler pockets become clogged, allowing the pockets to fill with rainwater.. You've probably seem similar on the X300s. Anyhow, the filler cap seals are not good enough to keep water out of the tanks.
Doug what we saw are the tank fill drains getting blocked up with debris and then the filler bowls fill with water when washed or rains and get past the old and dry cap seals right into the tank on the later cars with covered/recessed caps
In salvage my side of things normally sees what others have tried, and sometimes failed...
I can say that some of the new tanks that are sent out come unpainted and start rusting when they are put in the car. I'd always recommend painting them prior to an install...
I've also seen some of the DIY restoration kits that have gone wrong.
Years ago I had a good friend attempt either a POR15 or Eastwoods tank restoration kit. I know my buddy is really picky about his work, and wouldn't take shortcuts... Eventually I had this car come to me because of an under-bonnet fire. When I removed the tanks I got to see the results of his labor after about 5 years. The solution forms a kind of liner inside the tank that has to adhere to the inside of the tank. On his car the liner had never adhered to the sides, so it was almost like a bladder inside the tank. Although I know my friend well enough to know that he wouldn't take shortcuts on the etching process of the kit, something went wrong with the coating.
I also used to pull tanks and do an immediate cleaning with muriatic acid, diluted with water. It does a good job of getting all the sludge out, but will also lead to an immediate flash rust almost as soon as it's dumped...
Now I seldom sell a used tank, unless it's super clean coming off the car...
I'll also just add that the tanks are the same size, shape and mounting from the Series 1 - Series 3... With some plumbing changes you can use any of the tanks for a carbureted car, and several different tanks for the fuel Injected cars. It's not a huge task to change out a tank with the submerged pumps to the style with the single pump in the boot if you wish to do so... Normally you'll have to swap out the sending units at the same time, along with making the plumbing changes...
Cheers,
David
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