Ball Joint Replacement?
#1
Ball Joint Replacement?
I am now serious about replacing these. I have never done suspension work before but have done headers, tappet guide brake rotors etc. This is somewhat virgin territory for me and I am a little nervous. Is there anyone on the forum that could direct me to a step by step guide?
I would also like to speak to someone who has done this. I am not a stalker or weird O ( ok strike that - that is not what the wife and 3 kids say ) but would just like some sound advice.
Please PM me or send me your contact information and a time to call to Artvandelay1@verizon.net
Thanks for all the help
I would also like to speak to someone who has done this. I am not a stalker or weird O ( ok strike that - that is not what the wife and 3 kids say ) but would just like some sound advice.
Please PM me or send me your contact information and a time to call to Artvandelay1@verizon.net
Thanks for all the help
#2
Can you please confirm you have an XJ6 saloon dated some time between 1968-1986.
Front suspension balljoints on these cars are a very easy job, but you will need a balljoint splitter to get the taper on the fixing released. Apart from that, also you need good quality jack and axle stands or wooden blocks to support the lower spring carrier, because releasing a ball-joint also release the spring, and these are very, very strong springs, but nothing to worry about if you do the job right, which is to keep the full weight of the car on them at all times whilst doing the job.
The only problem you may find in doing the job is that you find other work to do, like a broken spring, or severely corroded spring pans. The other joints to look at are the inners on the top wishbone, called "Slipflex" bushes. These usually seize up and cause their securing bolt to rotate, thus wearing out their housing in the front cross member.
All the ball joints are now very cheap,(see below). Do NOT buy the "ball joint kit" for the lower ball joint; they don't last five minutes, the sealed ones are far, far, better. Note there are OE and X parts, the latter cheaper, and may even be the original supplier to Jaguar
http://www.jagbits.com/mm5/merchant....Code=SeriesIII
Front suspension balljoints on these cars are a very easy job, but you will need a balljoint splitter to get the taper on the fixing released. Apart from that, also you need good quality jack and axle stands or wooden blocks to support the lower spring carrier, because releasing a ball-joint also release the spring, and these are very, very strong springs, but nothing to worry about if you do the job right, which is to keep the full weight of the car on them at all times whilst doing the job.
The only problem you may find in doing the job is that you find other work to do, like a broken spring, or severely corroded spring pans. The other joints to look at are the inners on the top wishbone, called "Slipflex" bushes. These usually seize up and cause their securing bolt to rotate, thus wearing out their housing in the front cross member.
All the ball joints are now very cheap,(see below). Do NOT buy the "ball joint kit" for the lower ball joint; they don't last five minutes, the sealed ones are far, far, better. Note there are OE and X parts, the latter cheaper, and may even be the original supplier to Jaguar
http://www.jagbits.com/mm5/merchant....Code=SeriesIII
#4
If you've ever done brake rotors you've got enough expertise to take on this job. I tackled mine this spring along with any bushing I could get to, shocks, brakes and rotors. I would say this is definately a jobe most people could do on their own. This guy has a pretty good write up on his experience.
https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/s...ad.php?t=43759
https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/s...ad.php?t=43759
#6
I did this exact repair on my 86 Jag last fall. If you query "ball joint", the thread should come up. If I remember right, I purged all the details I could remember on what steps I took to replace them. Overall, this was not a difficult job and i learned a lot about the car during the process. The difference in the ride and handling will be like night and day.
#7
I just replaced the tie rod in my Jag. The tie rod end/ball joint was good but the ball joint at the inside end (hidden by the rubber boot) of the tie rod was loose to the point of making a knocking noise, especially on corners. When replacing, count the number of threads exposed so you can get the allignment close to where is was originally. You will need a tool to pull the ball joint at tie rod end. Repair took 1.5 hours. Steering wheel wobble is much improved but it looks like I have to do the other side.
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