Central Locking Successful Repair
#21
Thanks, Fellas,
Several years ago I removed the panel off the Left Rear door because it would only lock with the paddle. That was a matter of lubricating all the linkages and loosening everything up. This has been so Incredibly Annoying, to have a 3 door saloon is just plain Inconvenient. And this morning I'm Kicking myself for 4 years' Procrastination.
I'll be documenting the internal repair of this door also, so stay tuned.
@ Greg: I've been into all the doors at one time or another during my ownership, but I don't remember seeing any brass thingies you picture. Of course my car is 9 years older and somewhat primitive in comparison, so that shouldn't be too surprising. I do intend adjusting the linkages to this does NOT happen again!
@ Dave: Yes, unless one pulls the lever Before flipping the paddle the front doors won't lock. Without Central Locking, that's the only way to lock the doors without using the key as you mention. But I don't like to do that because the lock pins/wafers have a finite life span and are a Royal Pain to repair and replace (I can tell you how I know that). In fact, not having an operational Central Locking system has been one of the Major issues keeping me from driving the car more.
Now that I've got to it so early in the winter I'm already looking forward to more tripping.
(';')
Several years ago I removed the panel off the Left Rear door because it would only lock with the paddle. That was a matter of lubricating all the linkages and loosening everything up. This has been so Incredibly Annoying, to have a 3 door saloon is just plain Inconvenient. And this morning I'm Kicking myself for 4 years' Procrastination.
I'll be documenting the internal repair of this door also, so stay tuned.
@ Greg: I've been into all the doors at one time or another during my ownership, but I don't remember seeing any brass thingies you picture. Of course my car is 9 years older and somewhat primitive in comparison, so that shouldn't be too surprising. I do intend adjusting the linkages to this does NOT happen again!
@ Dave: Yes, unless one pulls the lever Before flipping the paddle the front doors won't lock. Without Central Locking, that's the only way to lock the doors without using the key as you mention. But I don't like to do that because the lock pins/wafers have a finite life span and are a Royal Pain to repair and replace (I can tell you how I know that). In fact, not having an operational Central Locking system has been one of the Major issues keeping me from driving the car more.
Now that I've got to it so early in the winter I'm already looking forward to more tripping.
(';')
Last edited by LnrB; 12-06-2022 at 10:02 AM.
The following 2 users liked this post by LnrB:
Daf11e (12-06-2022),
LT1 jaguar (12-05-2022)
#22
Today I successfully repaired and readjusted the Power Lock for the Right Rear door.
First, removal of the door card.
It's not nearly as complex as the front cards, no hidden screws or clips.
Merely lift the pocket out of its keyholes and set it aside.
You might notice how the speaker wire is wrapped around a support. That's how the car came to me. All the speakers are like that; Not Connected! In fact, the Head Unit didn't even have power!
It's OK though because I don't like the noise and distraction of a radio et al in a car.
In the words of another member, "It only covers the sound of stuff going wrong."
And here's the speaker wire peeking through the liner. This can cause problems during reassembly if it isn't properly stuffed back through this hole.
Notice there are 3 anchor points for the pocket. This is because the pocket also holds the means by which these doors are pulled closed by passengers.
After this, the liner pops off around the edges like all other door liners I've ever seen.
One must tilt the bottom of the liner steeply Out and UP to get the card from blocking by the paddle and allow it to drop out of the Chrome Channel at the seam between the upper liner and lower liner.
Here is access to the linkages and adjustments of a Rear Door locks, Series 2.
The Locking link connected to the paddle is INSIDE the door cavity. The link running along the top of the door just under the liner is the Lever link that releases the latch.
I'm touching the locking rod here. Notice how close it is to the Latch Release rod. Notice how close it is to the next rod.
The rod from the Electric Solenoid is the lowest one.
It's quite floppy and wobbly as you can see comparing this and the photo just above.. This is why the lock refused to release; too loose.
You can just see the Electric Solenoid behind my hand and to the left.
One pinches these spring thingies to lengthen or shorten the paddle throw. They firmly lock into place where you leave them. (One probably should do a number of tests to make sure adjustments is correct before reassembly.)
It's easy to know, for example, if the paddle doesn't move its full travel forward, then you've made the link too short and need to lengthen it just a twink.
If the paddle doesn't release the lock, then you need to shorten the throw.
After much testing I was confident and reassembled the door.
All good now.
Door locks and releases either electrically or with the paddle.
Or, with the Fob Button!! (that hasn't happened for a while)
First, removal of the door card.
It's not nearly as complex as the front cards, no hidden screws or clips.
Merely lift the pocket out of its keyholes and set it aside.
You might notice how the speaker wire is wrapped around a support. That's how the car came to me. All the speakers are like that; Not Connected! In fact, the Head Unit didn't even have power!
It's OK though because I don't like the noise and distraction of a radio et al in a car.
In the words of another member, "It only covers the sound of stuff going wrong."
And here's the speaker wire peeking through the liner. This can cause problems during reassembly if it isn't properly stuffed back through this hole.
Notice there are 3 anchor points for the pocket. This is because the pocket also holds the means by which these doors are pulled closed by passengers.
After this, the liner pops off around the edges like all other door liners I've ever seen.
One must tilt the bottom of the liner steeply Out and UP to get the card from blocking by the paddle and allow it to drop out of the Chrome Channel at the seam between the upper liner and lower liner.
Here is access to the linkages and adjustments of a Rear Door locks, Series 2.
The Locking link connected to the paddle is INSIDE the door cavity. The link running along the top of the door just under the liner is the Lever link that releases the latch.
I'm touching the locking rod here. Notice how close it is to the Latch Release rod. Notice how close it is to the next rod.
The rod from the Electric Solenoid is the lowest one.
It's quite floppy and wobbly as you can see comparing this and the photo just above.. This is why the lock refused to release; too loose.
You can just see the Electric Solenoid behind my hand and to the left.
One pinches these spring thingies to lengthen or shorten the paddle throw. They firmly lock into place where you leave them. (One probably should do a number of tests to make sure adjustments is correct before reassembly.)
It's easy to know, for example, if the paddle doesn't move its full travel forward, then you've made the link too short and need to lengthen it just a twink.
If the paddle doesn't release the lock, then you need to shorten the throw.
After much testing I was confident and reassembled the door.
All good now.
Door locks and releases either electrically or with the paddle.
Or, with the Fob Button!! (that hasn't happened for a while)
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