I have to buy parts for a complete break job on my 84' XJ6 III. I need insight on what I am about to buy for the job....The plan so far is to purchase from Rockauto.com the following :


Front Calipers - A1 CARDONE re-manufactured , $82 ($52 after core return) and Rear Calipers - A1 CARDONE re manufactured, $104 ( $55 after core return ).

Is there any additional little parts for the caliper replacement job I should anticipate getting? They say OEM, but do some brands fit better than others ?


Front Axle Pads - Ferodo , $46 for 4 pads and Rear Axle Pads - Ferodo, $25. for 4 pads

Will the Ferodo pads fit the A1 CARDONE Calipers ?


Front Rotors - CENTRIC Premium Disk , 5 bolt - $37 each , Rear Rotors - BECK / ARNLEY Premium Rear Rotors - $ 28 each

Do you think all of the above parts will be compatible with the car and each other ? Any parts I have overlooked that should be bought to replace along with the above job?


I also have to buy an OS Sensor Bosch OE part - $20, But do I get the long wire one ( 18'wire) or the short one (8'wire) ?

AND along with that an A1 CARDONE Air mass flow at $127 ( $50 core ).

Background:
Even though the car I have owned for 20 years only has 61,000 miles, and is in really good shape (a nice Dark Grey / Black color combo) it has little actual value. So.... I now have gone from the "Jaguar Specialty Mechanic Shop" to buying my own parts online and taking the car to a bunch of Chinese guys across town ( should I worry? ).

Thanks in advance.

 

The list looks good to me

I've had good luck with Cardone calipers and other products. Only one dud out of many purchases.

One thing, though......

You might want to source the rebuilt calipers locally so you can avoid shipping charges on the core returns. The calipers are very heavy and expensive to ship

Get the sensor with the longer wire. I don't know the correct length, specifically, but 8" seems way too short

Cheers
DD

 

If you're happy with the previous work they've done, stick with them, I'd say.

Front brake repairs/replacements on your car are rather routine. Rear brakes...not so much. Might wanna ask of they've done the job before. If they haven't they might be in for a bit of a shock.

Cheers
DD

 

Looks OK to me.


I would add:


1. Check out Rockauto. I got mine there, no core charge to mess with.
2. Add hand brake pads. Might as well take care of those along with the rear brake service.


Carl

 

If I was doing all that lot, I'd be doing the handbrake calipers as well. It's likely you'll need to replace most of the parts on these, depending on the amount of corrosion found. ALl parts are available as far as I know.SNG Barratt has them all, I think, and there are no doubt other suppliers too.

 

Thank you all for the thoughtful feedback. I can always count on this Forum; extremely helpful.

I will source the parts locally and avoid the shipping / core return charges.

I guess the big question Doug brings up is the complexity of the rear brakes, and the "non Jaguar specialty" shop doing the job (a recurring question, I am sure).

Background on the shop:

When I said "a bunch of Chinese guys", that is literally the case.

I have had them drop in a new motor in on a Jeep, and a new rack and pinion on this Jag in the past. Both without a problem. The only time they were challenged was the A/C on my Jeep, which has automatic vent doors used for temperature blending located behind a hard to remove dash (in that case they said up front they did not really do A/C system work that well, eventually I had to go to the dealer).

Each time I have gone over there, they have had a wide variety of cars. From junky looking Hondas / Fords, to older BMWs / Benz.

My question is: Are the rear brakes too complicated for them to figure out and do properly. Or is it a case of one or two extra hours?

 

Not complicated but labor intensive.

Many DIYers and some pros prefer to drop the entire rear suspension to do a full rear brake job. Not essential, but not that hard to do and it actually eases the rest of the job, IMO. It's their call.

Cheers
DD

 

I will mention dropping the entire rear suspension to the shop, good idea.

If you were to estimate numbers of hours for the front and then numbers of hours for the rear, what would that be ? If you were to put a round dollar figure less the parts, what would that range be ?

As I am sure you can tell, I'm on a budget with this car.

Thanks again for the advice.

 

Too many variables IMHO, but then, I do my own work and tend to be easily distracted into looking for other related parts to check & replace - eg suspension bushes, steering links, rear cradle mounts. However, here goes . . .

Based on our Series II based DD VanDen Plas and using new rotors and re-manufactured caliper slave cylinders rather than DIY kits, the rear took 2-3 times longer than front - although I am a "cradle out" person. I have been told that it is faster with cradle in, but I always seem to find mounts & shocks need replacing . . . and oh, how I hate going back in just months later!

Cheers,

Ken

 

I suggest that you give the brake lines a good review, particularly at the funky junction box where they meet near the rear brakes. Hard and soft brake lines go bad from the inside-out and you might want to replace them 'while you are there'.

 

YUP!


1. If the suspension is dropped, definitely replace the "soft" line.


2.If not, still a good idea.


3. Mine was not replaced. although, so far, all is well, I wish I had done that.


4. I farmed mine out to a new shop looking for business. The managed, almost ! But, the hand brake no longer works ! As I seldom if ever use it, my discovery was too late. And learned the hard way. I'll not retell, a real pain...


Carl.

 

+1 . . . Mighty good advice, Michael . . . like fuel lines, they can suffer crush injuries inherited over the years but uniquely, metal brakes lines can corrode faster from inside out simply because brake fluid is hygroscopic, attracting moisture from the atmosphere. Should rank as first "must do" on any long laid up barn find.

Cheers,

Ken