Hi all, this is my 1st post so my apologies if I've done something wrong

Here goes:

Car has been stood for 8 years, so drained all old fuel and replaced, injectors refurbished, and new bio 100 fuel lines used, new battery, coil, Re-Opus H amp installed (Red LED on Green LED flashing), fuel filter & fuel pump fitted.

Car will try and start just on cold injectors or with starting spray fluid, then that's it! Good spark from new ignition amp, coil is fine, 20 injector clicks when turning throttle Capstan but today tested all 12 injector connectors with ignition on, and with test meter red lead in either terminal and black to earth, they all showed 12.7V! Is this normal, and if not what is the likely cause?....................I need to hear this beast again, it's been too long.

Many Thx Dave.

 

Dave, welcome to our side, some say the "dark side" dunno.

The voltage is normal.

I suspect the trigger board INSIDE the distributor. The original was a 3 wire board, and that one had "reed switches" to trigger injector pulse. They failed regularly, and a newer 4 wire board was the replacement, complete with "hall effect switches", BUT, the 4th wire must be connected to a 12v IGN feed, and many I have seen have been connected to a coil wire, which is about 8v, give or take, and the hall effect switches simply dont work right. The rotor button was changed to suit the new baord. This change was the magnet in the HEEL of the rotor. There is a "round" magnet, and a "square" magnet rotor, and I forget what goes with what board, but a niggle in the brain, haha, says round was reed switches (3 wire).

May not be the answer, but that is the most common reason for no injector pulse on the mighty Pre HE engine.

The next (very close 2nd) is the injector loom itself, positioned in the bottom of the "V", and it cooks, and the insulation fails, and all sorts of havoc occurs. Old age is now an enemy of that particular loom.

 

Hi Grant thanks for your valued reply. I have replaced the original Lucas Opus system for the ReOpus H system deatails at Reopus Ignition | The Lucas OPUS Ignition amplifier so the old reed switches and amplifier internals have been discarded for an alleged more modern system. Looks like I might have to take off the dizzy cap (pain in the neck) and maybe have a look at the fuel injection trigger unit, as this had to be removed for the ReOpus, and could therefore have been disturbed somehow....................fun &games eh! Thx Dave.

 

Um, I am a tad confused?????.

I am familiar with the ReOpus system, BUT, only in regard to the spark side of the distributor. The trigger board and magnetic heeled rotor were still used, for injection signal.

I will google this thing later tonight and see if they now have one that does both functions, I doubt it, but then I am a doubting person by nature.

 

Mmmmmm, impatient lod fart that I am, I read their website, and NOWHERE are they mentioning the EFI system. In fact they are quoting a 1972 E Type as the "test" car, and they were NOT EFI engines.

Reading what you said firstly, I believe you have NO injector pulse whilst cranking, and that is pure and simple trigger board and magnet heeled rotor related.

Sooooooo, based on that, I believe you will still require the trigger board, 4 plastic screws, 4 rubber spacer grommets, and a magnetic heeled rotor that matches the style of trigger board you have installed.

If I have missed something, SORRY, I just go to my "bad corner" with a fresh JD, and get quietly merry.

 

Hi Grant see attached link http://www.reopusignition.com/reopus-h.html Not been out long. See what u think after reading up. D.

 

Morning Grant, another link with a bit more info?

http://partsxks.com/attachment/37570...nformation.pdf

D.

 

Yep, got all that. It is exactly what I had in my library, and what I googled last night.

Nowhere in there is there any mention of the injection circuit. In fact I do know that it is only for "spark", and the original trigger board and its bits are still used. The fact he/they use an E Type as a test/development car, also clarifies that even more, as the "E" is NOT injected, so NO trigger board.

Then add to the pot the fact that the Opus was the failure issue with the V12, NOT the D Jetronic. In fact I believe the D Jetronic is still waaaaaay more reliable than some of the modern stuff, so get rid of Opus and you will NEVER stop that engine.

When our S2 V12 Fuel Infected with Opus ignition got hissy, I fitted a Crane XR700, and it also was/is for the SPARK only, and the 4 wire trigger board and magnetic rotor was reused. That was 16 years ago, now sitting at 500k kms and still going.

I still maintain you have nothing there to activate the injectors, it is simply NOT getting what it needs from the "Opus" replacement, and I do not believe there is anything out there to replace the trigger board signal for the D Jetronic system.

 

Have a read of this, it might help -

JAGUAR V12 FUEL INJECTION 1975-1980 - D Jetronic / AJ6 Engineering

 

Good morning from Sunny Southern Spain! Many thx to Greg & Fraser for the above replies.
Went back into the dizzy yesterday, and found that on the Trigger Board 1 rubber spacer grommet missing, 3 of the 4 rubber grommets on the plastic mounting screws are missing, and for some reason the plastic clip over the 4 wire input grommet has feel apart. Is the 1 rubber mounting grommet critical for the Trigger Board mounting height. The Re-Opus retains the original Lucas Opus plastic pick-Up wheel with ferrite inserts, but what initiates the signal to the trigger board, is it the magnet in the heel of the rotor arm, as the original Lucas arm appears to have something on the underside of the rear tail, and even though the genuine Jaguar replacement I have (correct part no. for engine & year) doesn't appear to have the same, unless it is internally hidden!!! I am going to refit the old rotor & dizzy cap today and let's see eh?

 

Bugga.

Another PreHE rotor without a magnet. That is the 3rd I have heard of in the last 2 years.

It appears that the parts people are only thinking E Type, S1 and early S2 XJ12 with carbies, so NO trigger board or magnetic rotor is required. If the parts guy is smart enough mmmm, to ask if it is injected or carbied the chances of getting the wrong one is reduced.

I had this arguement with suppliers here when I worked for Jaguar spare parts, and some had no idea that the rotor was different.

 

Flickin bell..............put the old Lucas black dizzy on with original Lucas rotor with rectangular piece in the rear of the rotor & the barsteward fired up..…wow. Still have replacement genuine Jaguar rotor in sealed bag, and part no. matches S2 V12 Bosch D jetronic system. How many people have given up the cause due to this item? Scary thought eh?

Will keep you posted as it's farting & banging a it at the moment, so I'll give it a proper looking over now it's started. Now the fun begins !!!
D.

 

FAN BL&^DY TASTIC.

I have drilled a suitable hole in the heel and Epoxy glued a small round magnet broken out of an item (made in China, called a magnet on a stick, all of $2) to get one going here years ago. The magnetic heeled rotors were simply NOT available at the time, and $90 when available, damn.

Worked then and an email from him recently about headlight earths, indicates it is still working.

The popping banging is probably just hissy spark plugs from all the attempts to start it, so a good blast up the road will probably cure that little gremlin.

Now you can probably guess why I retired from Jaguar spare parts in 2003, enough is enough.

 

Hi Grant.........just a quickie, are the 4 rubber spacers on the trigger board important as regards thickness, as I only have one left, but have sourced 4 new replacements, but these are twice the thickness of the original ones? I personally don't it'll matter, as long as there is enough bite on the plastic threads!
Thx a lot D.

 

No.

As long as the board sits "level" so the same magnetic pulse (haha) is felt over each switch pack.

I used some hard plastic tubing (model aircraft supplier) on ours in the early days, coz those grommets and plastic screws were not available.

I have even used stainless screws (model stuff again), with NO ill happenings. Just dont raise that board too far so that it is clobbered by the rotor. A bit of trial and error will do wonders.