Daimler Double Six Van den Plas
#41
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Cheers
DD
#42
I believe that Jaguar lost the right to use the name Vanden Plas (at least in the UK and most likely Europe) when it was sold off and separated from BL in 1984. BL kept the name and I think they used it for Range Rovers and Rovers. It may well now belong to Jaguar Land Rover again (or BMW or Ford or ...?). After the 1984 privatisation, Jaguar simplified the model line up a little and all Daimlers, certainly Double Sixes, had the highest level of trim.
I apologise for being vague, but rights to brand names and trade marks is always subject to a lot of legal uncertainties.
I apologise for being vague, but rights to brand names and trade marks is always subject to a lot of legal uncertainties.
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ascanio1 (07-05-2021)
#43
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I did not catch if you are happy that Doug's advice resolves your question. I ask because I am confused whether you are asking about high pressure aircon or high pressure fuel hoses. Also, I not only reckon it's great advice, I would go even further. Across many years, I have found that locally fabricated hydraulic and aircon hoses have always performed well . . . perhaps because I have face to face contact with those locals and they must stand behind their product and workmanship.
However, I want to concentrate on the high pressure fuel lines, where I would absolutely insist on doing this myself. Reading the resources that Doug points to, your first take will convince you that an under-bonnet fire is not to be entertained lightly. Even that great inventor of the fire extinguisher, Grant Francis (he'll love that), might suggest this is one job not best left to others.
From memory there are somewhat more than 500 individual bits of HP rubber tubing (What? I missed some?). My advice is replace the lot; some are quite short, so buy in bulk and cut to length. Replace all compression clamps with brand new worm drive Jubilee do-hickeys (had trouble translating these . . LOL . . . and a pox on every other type). There is no mystery to having injectors tested, refurbed or replaced but again, you can refit. Follow Grant & Greg & Doug's advice in this area.
More critical is the wiring loom feeding the HP fuel thingies (excuse my highly technical Aussie terms). Old and cracked insulation suggests it was made from left-over sandwiches in Jaguar's Browns Lane caff, or is it heat in the vee (hey, careful) that turns it to toast? In any event, frayed and shorting wiring can result in sparks that will light up your day . . . in a very bad way! Your close attention here will circumvent all Grant's work in inventing the fire extinguisher (hahaha), but heck, it will save you lots of tears.
Upshot, Tommaso? Lotsa more work for you rather than that British bill, but you will know it is perfecto.
Caio and best wishes mate (Gosh; he's bi-lingual!),
Ken
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#44
Further to Ken's comments above, I changed the wiring harness to the injectors after coming back from Italy. Sitting on top of the V, especially in hot weather, totally cooks the insulation.
The short hoses from the rail to the injectors also have a hard life. You can buy the hose from just about any motor factor, though make sure it's the right grade and ethanol resistant. The next difficult thing is the lengths of the hose. It's fairly straightforward for all but the two at the front: make the ten at the back all the same length and about the same as the ones you take off. However, the two at front are classic British engineering: "cut to fit." And, to be a little more challenging, they have to make a right angle from the fuel rail to the injectors. Cut too long and the curve will be a bit tight and the hose is stressed in the middle; cut too short and the hose will be stretched and stressed at the connections to the rail and injectors. The positive aspect is that thanks to all this, the front ones will be the first to crack and give you a better chance of noticing that they need to be changed. You do have to take care of these hoses as they have a hard life and a fuel leak so close to the distributor could start an engine bay fire.
The short hoses from the rail to the injectors also have a hard life. You can buy the hose from just about any motor factor, though make sure it's the right grade and ethanol resistant. The next difficult thing is the lengths of the hose. It's fairly straightforward for all but the two at the front: make the ten at the back all the same length and about the same as the ones you take off. However, the two at front are classic British engineering: "cut to fit." And, to be a little more challenging, they have to make a right angle from the fuel rail to the injectors. Cut too long and the curve will be a bit tight and the hose is stressed in the middle; cut too short and the hose will be stretched and stressed at the connections to the rail and injectors. The positive aspect is that thanks to all this, the front ones will be the first to crack and give you a better chance of noticing that they need to be changed. You do have to take care of these hoses as they have a hard life and a fuel leak so close to the distributor could start an engine bay fire.
The following 2 users liked this post by Peter3442:
ascanio1 (07-05-2021),
cat_as_trophy (07-09-2021)
#46
And after writing all that, I recall seeing Vanden Plas used in the US for what would have been Daimler X300s in the UK. I did a bit of research and it seems that after privatisation Jaguar retained the right to use the VDP name in North America. Rights to the name outside North America are owned by Nanjing, the Chinese company that bought MG Rover (though without rights to the Rover name).
#47
Also, I not only reckon it's great advice, I would go even further. Across many years, I have found that locally fabricated hydraulic and aircon hoses have always performed well... perhaps because I have face to face contact with those locals and they must stand behind their product and workmanship.
However, I want to concentrate on the high pressure fuel lines, where I would absolutely insist on doing this myself. Reading the resources that Doug points to, your first take will convince you that an under-bonnet fire is not to be entertained lightly. Even that great inventor of the fire extinguisher, Grant Francis (he'll love that), might suggest this is one job not best left to others.
From memory there are somewhat more than 500 individual bits of HP rubber tubing (What? I missed some?). My advice is replace the lot; some are quite short, so buy in bulk and cut to length. Replace all compression clamps with brand new worm drive Jubilee do-hickeys (had trouble translating these . . LOL . . . and a pox on every other type). There is no mystery to having injectors tested, refurbed or replaced but again, you can refit. Follow Grant & Greg & Doug's advice in this area.
More critical is the wiring loom feeding the HP fuel thingies (excuse my highly technical Aussie terms). Old and cracked insulation suggests it was made from left-over sandwiches in Jaguar's Browns Lane caff, or is it heat in the vee (hey, careful) that turns it to toast? In any event, frayed and shorting wiring can result in sparks that will light up your day . . . in a very bad way! Your close attention here will circumvent all Grant's work in inventing the fire extinguisher (hahaha), but heck, it will save you lots of tears.
As for the wiring, I am already doing 4 systems at one time. The wiring harness is a very complex and expensive item to overhaul so I decided to leave it for another time. The wiring on this Daimler does not seem toast or too bad. Yet. (Prayer).
-------------------------------------------------------------
Further to Ken's comments above, I changed the wiring harness to the injectors after coming back from Italy. Sitting on top of the V, especially in hot weather, totally cooks the insulation. The short hoses from the rail to the injectors also have a hard life. You can buy the hose from just about any motor factor, though make sure it's the right grade and ethanol resistant. The next difficult thing is the lengths of the hose. It's fairly straightforward for all but the two at the front: make the ten at the back all the same length and about the same as the ones you take off. However, the two at front are classic British engineering: "cut to fit." And, to be a little more challenging, they have to make a right angle from the fuel rail to the injectors. Cut too long and the curve will be a bit tight and the hose is stressed in the middle; cut too short and the hose will be stretched and stressed at the connections to the rail and injectors. The positive aspect is that thanks to all this, the front ones will be the first to crack and give you a better chance of noticing that they need to be changed. You do have to take care of these hoses as they have a hard life and a fuel leak so close to the distributor could start an engine bay fire.
-------------------------------------------------------------
Last edited by ascanio1; 07-05-2021 at 12:20 PM.
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cat_as_trophy (07-09-2021)
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