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I am thinking of refurbishing my own dashboard on my 1985 XJ6 Series 3. I don't have the burr walnut, mine is a light straight grain wood.
Does anyone know what would be a good match that I could buy as a veneer only?
I am thinking of refurbishing my own dashboard on my 1985 XJ6 Series 3. I don't have the burr walnut, mine is a light straight grain wood.
Does anyone know what would be a good match that I could buy as a veneer only?
it is easy enough to get veneer. I used walnut but found the curved edges difficult - but then again I was a doctor in a former life!
I really like Dave's Birds Eye Maple dash. Because in a past and present life I am a guitarist and always prefer Birds Eye Maple wood for my guitars, the sound is brighter and resonant.
Yes, it is real wood veneer and I have seen craftsmen matching and gluing it to its 1/2" plywood base at Browns Lane in the mid-80s on the XJ40 model. They were also engaged in inserting white boxwood inlays too. This was for the top model, the Sovereign, I think, and the Daimler versions. The cheaper Series 3 3.4 litre XJ6 didn't get the 'posh' veneer, it was plain like Grahama's car. My own 1980 Series 3 had nice veneer, but cracking of the varnish spoilt it a bit.
I'll throw out www.myrtleltd.com in the UK. I'm not sure they provide the veneers, but they do a great job on replacement panels. Electing to replace the entire panel makes the job considerably easier. They also have veneered panels that are not commonly available for jaguar XJs. Like the AC panel and the lower console ski slope.
Fraser, at Browns Lane, did you notice what they were using to press the veneer once they had glued it? It takes a lot of pressure for a good glue-up.
Dave
Sorry, it's too long ago !
Here's something on how Bentley do it. They're abot 2 miles up the road from my house. I've been round the factory, and its as clean as the local hospital almost next door to the factory ! https://www.autocar.co.uk/opinion/in...hing-wood-shed
Last edited by Fraser Mitchell; 11-13-2021 at 04:10 AM.
You could put it face down on a flat surface and place concrete blocks on tthe top rear of dash to press it down as a form of "clamping". .
I did something similar to redo the rear seat / trunk firewall covers in my XJ and S type.Lot of weight to get them really flat and "tailored". Maybe I was an upholsterer in a previous life.
Not sure if you're aware, especially given your car's subtle grain, that the veneer on the left- and right-hand sides of the dash mirror each other from the factory.
If you're going to reveneer, a vacuum press is the only way to ensure even clamping pressure. Even then, it's still possible to get air bubbles under the veneer where it hasn't stuck to the substrate
The way Jaguar ( and Bentley) do it is the substrate is formed aluminium. Then there are 7 layers of poplar wood, with the grain aligned at right angles to the layer above. Interleaved is sheets of heat activated adhesive, and finally on top is the finished veneer, usually walnut. Then the entire assembly is put into a press with dies that match the shape of the panel, and the wood is heated to activate the glue and pressed to form it to shape and then cooled. It's a process impossible to replicate outside a factory environment.
And yet here's proof that it can be done outside of a high production factory setting. Air bubbles and dry spots are the most common problems, I agree, but with experience this can be overcome. As you describe the lay-up procedure of Jaguar and Bentley, you are describing how Baltic Birch and Apple-Ply furniture grade plywood is made, identical process with much better quality wood. If those two manufacturers are actually choosing to make their own from poplar (and I saw it on my dash panel), I think that's a step backward in quality.
If I needed to make a couple thousand veneers a year I would have an air bag/mold system, for sure. But I don't, so I don't and my veneers don't fail.
Think you used enough clamps there Dave ?
Built a few electric guitars ( neck thru body ) helping a friend try to start a guitar company years ago, you can never have too many clamps !
I had already found & been drooling over the veneers on the site you linked . Really like the way you can see the actual sheets you are buying. Going to get some from them to redo my "rusty cat".
After seeing how nice yours came out Dave, I might try some birdseye or flame maple.
You are absolutely right on the clamps Brian, if more is better then too many is just right! It takes hundreds of pounds of pressure to insure a good adhesion. Use a purpose-made veneering adhesive, don't use the yellow/white glues that are designed for solid wood joining. Polyurethane glues in a pinch on small pieces. I use wax paper or plastic wrap (Serran Wrap, Stretch Wrap, etc.) between the work piece and the clamping cauls to prevent you ending up with much more that you wanted. Give the work piece plenty of time to dry and cure, two different things. Start with a small test project to get the feel and see what didn't work, you will experience some "ah *****", but that's the beauty of learning.
Hello everyone, I'm new to the forum. I have a 1986 Xj6 that I need to redo all of the woodgrain on. Any help or information would be greatly appreciated.
I did mine the easy way, scoured eBay for a vdp dash, then just redid the varnish, tried reveneering the bit by the trip computer, turned out ok, but 8 years on, it started peeling, so I just stripped it, and painted it black