remove the dash cap, look at the different color vacuum plastic hoses connecting to the back of the center vent actuator, if everything looks fine, including the "T" connections, you must have a bad actuator, not difficult to replace, first remove the entire assembly from the front with two large phillips screws, the entire black plastic housing and actuator comes off, after you remove the sticky duct tape. The actuator is held in place with tiny phillips screws. Replace it and try again.

 

I have two inoperative amps sitting on my workbench. If you want them to open 'em up and see what makes 'em tick, I'll gladly send them to you. Any use at all, even if just satisfying curiosity, is better then tossing tem right into the trash.

Cheers
DD

 

Doug,

Thanks, I could not tell the difference between a op amp, a resistor, or a diode, much less find out if they're bad.

you know, I think I know just the right person to figure it out. He is Mike Eck, of jaguarclock.com he's an electronics wizard, he was the one who made me the opticell mod. If anyone can figure what goes wrong with these Amps, it's him.

save the ones you have, I'm going to contact Mike.

 

Well,.. Got my A/C working darn good with the Maxi-Frig product. Took awhile for the system to settle but seams OK now. Put in a small can of oil and a can of 134 stop leak for JIC. Was careful not to over charge. Got a steady 30 psi low pressure at 1500 rpm.
After pulling the dash cap off and not finding any problems, I got lazy. LnrB's idea about holding the center vent open looked great but I found a small wooden wedge worked also.
Question,... My center A/C vent has two small plastic pieces that unitize the three louvers for up/down direction of flow.
Don’t know what they’re called or have a part number. Both are broken. Dave @Everyday XJ couldn't help and sng barratt ignored my email request.
Any ideas? thanks,

 

check with John's Cars. He made a batch of them in metal so they don't crack in pieces. I don't know if he still has any. You have to get on the phone and call him. I think they are called Center Vent pivot clips.

http://www.johnscars.com/

The problem with wedging the center vent open is that you are also causing the vent rod system into a forced position and eventually the Servo itself might display some damage in my opinion.

I don't like that solution at all, the reason for the center vent not opening in Cooling Mode, must be that your system has a Servo issue already, a vacuum actuator issue, or a loose vent rod issue, If you did not test the center vent actuator outside of the car, you missed a good opportunity.

 

Back to fixing the climate control on this bad boy. First all I'd like to do it have it blow cool air but even though I powered the servo to fully cold position and confirmed with the feedback pot resistance, I am still getting full heat. Any idea how I can cool that off?

 

Is the heater valve closed? In max cooling mode it should be.

Is air coming primarily thru the center dashboard outlet? It should be.

Is the refrigeration portion of the system operational? Fully charged with Freon, compressor engaging, etc?

Cheers
DD

 

No vac on the water valve. I need to drive the car right now so I just applied vac from a carb for today and will fix later.

No, the AC has never worked. Talking of which, which valve on the compressor do I use to add refrigerant?

 

Kind of jumping in here but my comments pertain to the information presented above.

I was the beta-tester for the Jag-Aire manual temperature control. I have been using it for about a year and have been very pleased. You want it warmer you push the warmer side of the switch, you want it cooler you push the cooler button. The Delanaire system responds immediately. The control itself is extremely high quality, installation was a snap. I love it. I made a little YouTube video about it: https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=6Dm8_QEuDA4

The manual control switch replaces the amplifier, the temperature sensor and the temperature selector knob. Fewer things to break. You can find it at jag-aire.com

If you are restoring the original system, the temperature sensor in the dash pad often gets gummed up especially if people in the car smoke a lot. You can remove it and clean it. If you want to see how to remove it, you can see it in the first portion of my S3 dashboard replacement video https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=We8eNna0nFE

Eleanor's post about blocking the center vent open full-time works well. I used a little wood wedge and sprayed it flat black. I also keep a little dial thermometer stuck down in the center vent to show what temperature the air the system is pumping out. So with when I push the Jag-Aire manual temperature control I can see the air temperature coming out of the center vent zoom up or down immediately - no lag.

BTW, the name of owner of Jag-Aire is Gary Crosby. A true expert on the Delanaire MkII system and easy to work with

 

Interesting. I've started work on a PIC based control system with a small display to control everything. The system is pretty easy by modern standards and a lot of the mechanical stuff can go away. FET's replace relays to PWM control the blower motors giving infinite speed between zero and full, frees up a ton of space and takes out a ton of wiring alone.

 

After doing some work my blowers have stopped working. I think I may have blown a fuse. I know that there are 4 and I am going to try them first. But I don't know the amps for each. Does anyone know what these are so I can get them all at once?